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A type S

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lewd lude lover
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Post by lewd lude lover » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:51 am

type s is the lude to drive if you like having big fun on our roads. I say again, OUR UK ROADS ARE PERFECT FOR IT. maybe an lsd on track? i dont know. not in real world country lanes though. and not on motorway junction roundabouts.

it transfers torque not power. upto 80% to either wheel depending on the cars need. It will literally pull you round a corner used correctly.

atts to my knowledge is very solid and reliable.

there are less tuning options available but they are still available. atts is good to about 240whp.

atts gives the car a rwd feel with fwd safety. many is the time the rear will gently slip as i have powered out of a tight corner giving a massive grin.

Type S gearbox is close ratio and unique in the range.

understeer is a thing of the past.

atts is matched to a number of extensive suspension modifications that make the type S a MUCH more stable platform to corner from.

Type S has the best interior.

To get the same level of performance from a stock h22 would cost a hell of a lot more than buying a type S would nowadays. ask a1ex. his build cost as much as my car nearly and he was only pulling on me in second and i 17'' against his 15'' wheels.

People never seem to bitch so hard about the Nissan GTR AWD system which is funny because the same tech by the same guy is what atts is but in a FWD format. Designed After the AWD system as well.

Trusting people's opinions on why not to get a type S who have never driven one is like listening to a man who has never had a blowjob telling you it is a bad idea and taking his advice. Carry on by all means but you could be seriously missing out.

The ''I know what I like and I like what I know'' attitude is weak as three day old jobby.

Having driven stock 5th 4ws, modded 4th 2ws lsd, stock motegi, and three type S's the type S is the way to go. My points are based on personal experience and opinion but I defy anyone to contradict any of them with serious data.

Yes there are 'better' system available now but not in the class of car we are buying and owning.

give it a try, its not for everyone but it makes for bloody fun driving. There is a reason that the type S was and still is near double the price of the next best option.


@newkid: you are exactly what I mean. you have no real knowledge of this subject and every line you write hi-lights it in bold caps. :lol: no offence but Shh.


atts light comes on if you have a light bulb out. its an important system and so is having all your lights working while on the road. This is called a 'warning light'. Its to warn you that something is amiss and you should have a look, untill then no atts. Rather like TC light or 4WS lights come on on other models :?

I have never actually known an ATTS system to fail. My own and rattys issues have been caused whole and complete by US frigging about with wiring and messing where we know not what we do. If you can find a uk member with a damaged or broken unit in the last 5 years I will be impressed.


Im not defending the type S here, I dont need to, it can look after itself fine. I will defend against opinion based on ignorance and conjecture though, rather like I would shout down a guy who had never felt the inside of a womans mouth but yet was shouting how awful it must be to put your gentleman's sausage in there.
6th gen Prelude please Mr Honda. RWD 2.4 turbo lude.

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Post by nitin_s1 » Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:02 pm

Just to add to LLL's comment!

At first, I thought that ATTS is just all show no go but after been driving around in it by Ratty and LLL himself, I know which car I will choose out of all other Preludes! :)

I sometimes take the brave pills and go around a corner vey fast early in the morning when there are no other cars on road, and it's bloody awesome!! ;)

But if you want more tuning options then get something else.

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Post by LewisH » Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:05 pm

If the type-s is no good for future boost tuning or high n/a tuning, im not gonna bother with looking at a type s. Im gonna probably get the type-s seats front and rear for mine, and maybe the carpets if there the right colour for my liking :)

Thanks for all the feedback, and i didnt mean to start a mini war =p

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Post by Donald » Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:05 pm

:worms: :lol:

LLL makes valid points.

I've said it before the last time this jobby came up; buy the car that suits the situation, your driving style and what you want from it.

Go ahead and buy a 2WS 5G if you're worried about ATTS giving up, but don't complain if you understeer into a hedge whilst dissing a more 'capable' system.

There are many examples you can come up with, for, against, versus between the models, but it's silly to waste time over it.

Personally I wouldn't pay the additional price for a TypeS based PURELY on it having ATTS, simply because I don't think it would be worth it to me. I live in a city and the country roads around here are shocking. I drive no more than 10 miles a day, mostly dual carriageway and city.

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Post by mart609 » Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:40 pm

newkid wrote:Why not just have a brake warning lamp like the 4th gens instead of knocking out a system?
when I loose a brake lamp on my 4th gen it trips out the 4ws and abs

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Post by A1ex » Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:42 pm

newkid wrote:To get the same level of performance from a stock h22 would cost a hell of a lot more than buying a type S would nowadays. ask a1ex. his build cost as much as my car nearly and he was only pulling on me in second and i 17'' against his 15'' wheels.

Not always true, i reckon I'll spend £1500 max and end up with more power than a type-s
I can assure you it'll cost you more than that, I've been there and done it :lol:

To get my stock lude up to 228bhp & 174lb/ft I had to get the following;

Type s intake & panel filter £150
ATR inlet mani, throttle body, fuel rail & injector £100
ATR head with cams £100 (ebay bargin)
mugen mani £300
evo 2 zorst & decat £250
Hondata s300 socketed ECU £450

That's £1,450 in parts.

Then the labour;

Head rebuild and mods for ATR inlet mani £900
Head swap with piston re-ring and new big ends £700
Tuning £400

That's another £2,000

So that's £3,450 to get 185bhp up to 228bhp, OK the engine has had a pretty substantial rebuild too but if you want past about 210bhp you need to change the stock cams and springs to at least ATR ones and just swapping all that over is several hundred quid in labour.

BTW, LLL I was on 16's ;) :lol:
PAW rebuilt 98 prelude 228bhp & 171lb/ft R.I.P.
PAW rebuilt 01 ATR 238bhp & 164lb/ft sold
Monte Carlo Blue 02 S2K :D

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Post by LewisH » Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:47 pm

Im currently looking at Skunk 2 inlet, cams and TB with AEM air intake, all that (including the skunk 2 cam springs) will set me back £1500 IF i get some parts im looking at atm on the bay! Main reason im looking at this lot is because i can then use it in a turbo build :D

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Post by ziyaan » Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:00 pm

On the yaw issue iv driven An Evo 9 and coming out of sharp bend is mental
If ATTS is a 2 wheel version of yaw

Then with a certain bend in mind i took at 80 in the Evo foot was not fully planted i let off slightly, i realised i could have kept it down all the way and 60 in my standard 5th gen prelude 2.2 vtec foot full to the floor

Then ATTS should do it at roughly similar to the Evo

get 1

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Post by A1ex » Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:15 pm

Fair enough. Altho you've already spent £500 on the zorts which isn't standard and will be part of getting past the type s power so to me you should include this in your cost unless you already have then I apologise. Also swapping cams & springs is a big job.
PAW rebuilt 98 prelude 228bhp & 171lb/ft R.I.P.
PAW rebuilt 01 ATR 238bhp & 164lb/ft sold
Monte Carlo Blue 02 S2K :D

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Post by LewisH » Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:18 pm

Cams AND springs, is head off and valves out iirc from doing my renault head... unless there different on a honda engine ? But i doubt it is. jobby works in the same concept. If i got all the parts my self i reacon i could build and do 90% of the labour my self. Other then sleeving, boring, skimming and maybe some small headwork.

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