Chat thread

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:44 am

To be honest, I can't remember. I just mean it's on one of the shortest throw settings!

I notice the rattles even more because I've got poly engine mounts

Even worse when the inside of the car is cold!

I think I also need to replace the rear droplink (well, the bushings but I don't think you can *just* buy the bushings?) and the rear trailing arm bushings

Post by **Ammo** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:47 am

Replaced my rear drop links for MOT, think they were £27 for both sides, prob could have got them cheaper but needed them quickly

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:52 am

Yeah I've got poly engine mounts too Jay. I just get a bit more vibration at tick over, not too bad.
I think the expensive bushes are the lower control arm ones arent they? The ones you basically have to cut out. Got Rich to do mine, bitch of a job and not cheap as a result.

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:59 am

Oh right. Might as well get new ones then! Trailing arm bushings are £35 I think. Also need drivers side upper control arm bushings apparenty

They squeak.

Can't even remember which bushings are poly anymore. I'll just have to make sure I replace any bushings with poly ones.

I'm going to have to get those hubcentric spacers at the end of the month

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:03 pm

Hubcentric spacers

I think a lot of the time people think they have shock knock, its actually the rear drop links.
Made a huge difference when I had to replace mine, they where shot. As Ammo says, fairly cheap though.

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:12 pm

Yeah just ordered some, £32. I'll have to take a day over one weekend and get em replaced. Not too hard a job if they're like the fronts.

Yeah, spacers move the wheels slightly. I've got OEM wheels (because I love the look of them) but the offset is too little, they sit really close into the arch. Spacers move them out slightly (15mm are the ones I'm getting). Although I might need shorter wheel studs as well. Should improve the look no-end and give me the handling I want. I think the big reason the 17s felt so different was because they sat 17mm further out than the OEM 15" wheel!

But you have to be careful what spacers you buy. Hubcentric are the most secure, normally you'd get like a washer that sites between the wheel and the hub and you still use the normal wheel studs, but with hubcentric the spacer bolts to the hub and the wheel bolts to the spacer.

I've got some knocking from the back, so I'm thinking its either the drop links or the trailing arms.

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:17 pm

Yep, my money is on the drop links, its bloody annoying isnt it!
Ah right, the hubcentric threw me. I'm always a bit wary of spacers, dont they put more of a strain wheel bearings?

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:30 pm

Well, I've done a lot of reading on them and I've seen a lot of "a friend of a friend said they were dangerous", but not a single first hand account of it. And most of the time it seems only those spacers that still use the original studs are the worst, the hubcentric are ok.

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:31 pm

Yeah you're probably right. I confess I'm only going on what I've 'heard' too.
One way to find out

Post by **Ammo** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:39 pm

Seen enough wheels come off drift cars to put me off, to quote a drift mechanic "You don't need spacers if you fit wheels with the correct offset"

JayJay to make life easier for me, I undid the tops of the rear drop links and then totally removed the ARB to get the bottom ones off, saved me loads of time trying to do it under the car