mot failure

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:21 pm

another quick question, how does the hand brake mech take up the slack left by the piston say for instance new pads to old, as the piston would be further out with worn pads (keeping in mind hand brakes have to be machanical and not hydrolic so the mech would have to some how adjust itself)

i do have the exploded view but doest really explain how it works, the reason i ask is there was a real bad knocking when i first drove it after it was stood with the brakes on, thought it was rust but could this explain my problem ie pads are moving to far from disk (the amount of movement from the hand brake to the piston is very small and could quite easly not make a good contact with the disk. the lever on the caliper for the handbrake only makes about 90 degree of movement so could quite easly be not enough travel if for some reason the pads are to far from the disk, also a little confusing is the fact the piston has to be wound back for new pads, so how does the caliper release the disk under normal operation?

ok so it wasnt a quick question

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:30 pm

I think there's some kind of cam and spring in there. When you pull up the handbrake at the same time as pressing the brake pedal, the cam takes up the slack.

If your discs are in good condition, your pads might just need deglazing. Take them out, put a sheet of 80 grit on something very flat like a piece of wood and rub the pad over it until the shine comes off. Or just get some new pads they don't cost much. They aren't blueprint by any chance? I always had to do this come MOT time with my old blueprint discs and pads. I switched to Delphi a couple of years ago and the brakes always test very efficient and balanced now.

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:50 pm

well i just won the caliper for 9.99

breakers wanted £50

i will have another look at the caliper tomorow, but for what i can see it apears to be going through its full amount of travel (the hand brake mech) it does bite but not enough, pasenger side is great oddly

knightmare · Post by **knightmare** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:06 pm

Apparently there's over 120 different parts in the rear caliper... Its more than likely that its seized...

Personally I would of bought a recon from " Brakes International " but when your on a tight budget that's not always easy to afford...

Paul

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:13 pm

no its not seized, but the car was stood for around 4 months, when i moved it there was a knocking coming from the rear wheel. i desided to drive it and clear the rust off the discs, but when i applied the brakes it was knocking and i could even feel it coming from the driver side wheel, like the disc was warped. i continued to apply the breaks and slowly it cleared but i think i may have dammaged one or some of the componants inside. if i pump the brake, then adjust the hand brake the offside locks fine but the driverside rear can still be turned with some musscle. with the hand brake on it looks as though the handbrake lever (on the caliper)has traveled all the way to its full movement and as such needs just a tiny bit more (which it doesnt have) to lock the wheel

knightmare · Post by **knightmare** » Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:59 pm

If your at the evesham i think your at I was only two minutes away from you a couple of weeks ago..... My point being I'd really like to look at this myself....

4 months stood up can do some damage.... I've been moving mine about as much as I can...

I cant believe you've damaged something, you'd be the first..

Wind both pistons back, then pump foot break till pistons are pushing pads against disc, then pull handbrake and adjust till you have six clicks.... I thinks thats the way to do it... I can't remember what it says in manual atm.....

Paul

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:36 pm

tried that, wound both pistons in, slackend off cable , pumped brake till pads were as far as they could go then re-adjusted hand brake. the handbrake leaver on the caliper appears to be going the full distance up to the point where it stops. i dont know if it has been like this for ages as the handbrake has never really been that good. the pasenger side locks but the drivers side is crap by comparison. i will try again in the morning and post results.

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:04 am

well ran through the procedure again, slight improvement but still not great, anyone else with an auto (can you drive off with the handbrake on?) on gravel the passenger side just skids across the gravel but the drivers side doesnt. anyone know the mot loads for the handbrake? if it passes now anyone need a drivers rear calliper

the manual says put handbrake onto first click then adjust till the brakes start to drag

Post by **indigolemon** » Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:23 am

On tarmac my handbrake would hold my auto in place. Never tried it on gravel!

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:38 am

had a look on google, mot efficiency for hand brake is min 16% so now i need to find a 1 in 6 hill and try it. on another note why do autos need to pass a handbrake test, isnt that is what park is for

my handbrake holds fine in drive, till i give it some throttle, but then any hand brake would give in this situation