Help

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 8:21 pm

Hey!

I'm a bit out of practice with working on my lude, been quite a while since I've had to do anything, but my most recent purchase (http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 21729.html) is soon to become my main car

Anyhoo, I took her for a good spin the other day and when I got home I heard a hissing noise - looked underneath and fluid was pissing out of somewhere. I think it's coolant, in fact pretty sure considering the expansion tank is near empty and I got a strange gurgling noise when I squeezed the top hose....

I've got a set of new radiator hoses in my stockpile of parts, so I've changed the top one already. Now, if I change the bottom one is that it - or are there other places coolant can leak from?

I started trying to remove the radiator from my old lude last night in case, but couldn't even get the bumper off (how the hell do you get the front indicators off? I think there's a screw in there but it's rusted to jobby) Am I likely to need the radiator? (It looks in better nick than the one on the black lude)

Realise there's quite a few questions in this post but need some reassurance I'm on the right track to fix the issue. I'll be working on her most of tomorrow... need to get her on the road before Thursday.

Jackson Bondy · Post by **Jackson Bondy** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 10:02 pm

Depending on where the leak is make sure the radiator isn't leaking as it only takes a big stone impact in the wrong place to cause a leak.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 10:31 pm

Coolant can leak from any of the rubber pipes visible really, as well as those going to the rad, there are pipes going into to firewall to the heater matrix. Also there is a coolant pipe or two at the back of the block to check. Also the bumper does not have to be moved to remove the rad, undo the two pipes, two bolts on the top and it just lifts out.

For reference, the front indicators have two screws on each side, one visible on the outside on the reflector part and one on the front inner side of the part that has the bulbs.

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 10:34 pm

It seemed to be quite far back, maybe 2ft, where it was dripping from - but then again it's all a blur as I was rushing to get home at the time and only took a quick glance.

What if I stuck some tap water in the radiator and ran the engine until I saw a leak?? Would that be safe enough?

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 10:42 pm

Vtecmec wrote:Coolant can leak from any of the rubber pipes visible really, as well as those going to the rad, there are pipes going into to firewall to the heater matrix. Also there is a coolant pipe or two at the back of the block to check. Also the bumper does not have to be moved to remove the rad, undo the two pipes, two bolts on the top and it just lifts out.

For reference, the front indicators have two screws on each side, one visible on the outside on the reflector part and one on the front inner side of the part that has the bulbs.

Cheers bud. I think the inner screw is screwed. But if I can remove the rad without the bumper then that's not a problem. I think I'll have to get her up on ramps (or at least axle stands) and inspect all the hoses.

It's probably worth replacing the rad as it's missing a few teeth, the old lude has around half the mileage and looks a lot more silver.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:47 pm

Vast majority of hoses are visible from above the engine bay.

Yes if you're just wanting to find where the leak is from, it's fine to just stick water in without antifreeze. Don't run the car like that normally though (antifreeze isn't just about stopping it freezing, it's also got corrosion inhibitors too, so needs to be there all year round).

A favourite hose to leak is on the side of the head, underneath the distributor, above the gearbox. Tends to get oil leaking on it from the cam cover/distributor seal which softens the rubber. If it's that one, first time round you can get away with chopping a short length off the end and refitting it.

When you refill the system at the end after fixing the leaks/changing the rad, make sure you bleed the system properly. It's important because otherwise you will get engine idling issues, but can take a while.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:47 pm

From new, the indicator retaining screws should be stainless btw, so rust isn't normally an issue.

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Sat Aug 04, 2018 10:03 am

wurlycorner wrote: A favourite hose to leak is on the side of the head, underneath the distributor, above the gearbox. Tends to get oil leaking on it from the cam cover/distributor seal which softens the rubber. If it's that one, first time round you can get away with chopping a short length off the end and refitting it.

Wurly beat me to it. This ^ is worth a check. I had exactly that about a year ago and chopped about 40mm off. I ordered a new one anyway (very cheap) but it's still going strong.

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Sat Aug 04, 2018 5:10 pm

Thanks guys, it is indeed this hose you mention. It fooled me as I ran the engine until it started leaking again and it was pissing down the side of the gearbox, towards the back. I couldn't see any hoses above there that seemed even the least bit damp, but I can now see droplets under the distributor - which are obviously running down the gearbox and accumulating into a steady stream. Cheers lads

I removed the air intake as that was in the way (good thing I did as I discovered a split in the rubber at the end near the throttle body)... Does anyone have the first section of a type s intake available - or know how to fix it?

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:14 pm

That section of the intake system on a Type S is also well known for splitting, tbh!
The only option is to repair the existing one yourself, or replace with something aftermarket.
honda-hardy sourced a silicone hose that replaced it well