Lude Generation

I was going to say that the 4th gens had the cracking solder joint issue inside the ECU, where the large driver ICs are? I distinctly recall in my youth watching someone do it, only then for the car to break down with the main relay suffering a similar fault just a week later...

That could explain the ECU reporting high resistances, but not if the connector was removed and motor tested directly.

If the motor really is high resistance, then its either burnt out coils (hard to imagine), or if its a brushed motor then brushes/commutator is worn out. If it can be removed from the rack, an alternator/starter refurbisher might be able to breath some life into it.

If its a brushless motor, and it has high resistances (and wasn't hot at the time it was tested), then its probably toast assuming it was probed as close as possible to the motor.

Resoldering the ECU is a good shout. Takes about an hour including removing and refitting.

Thanks for the advice guys it is appreciated.

The resoldering does sound like an option and i have mentioned it to my mechanic but he thinks the ECU is good as it seemed to be working as described in the manual.

He took the resistance from the wiring on the motor itself and he believes the brushes in the motor are most probably shot. We have the option to take it apart but it has anti tamper screws on it so we figured it would be best to have a another motor if we can get hold of one. If it cures the problem then we can get the original motor refurbed.

But if we can't we'll have to bite the bullet and have a go at refurbing the one on the car.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know about the alignment tool needed to set the system up? I figure we will need that when we start taking things apart!

You can get the tool from @Drax on here.

Thank you.

@Storm924 FYI i have one left, the other two i have are reserved for 2 locals i need to catch up with soon. if i run out though ill get another batch made
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I recently had 4WS code 62 on my 4th gen, in my case I forgot to reattach the white wire to the underhood fusebox after it was temporarily removed. See the manual 17-73. Check if fuse 38 is intact and check if terminal A on 4WS ECU has 12 volts. If it has, it might be interesting to measure the terminal inside the ECU and follow it from there. I wouldn't be too surprised if a broken solderjoint is the issue here.

I know someone who has a spare 4WS motor and 4WS ECU but not sure if he's willing to part with it and the part is located in the Netherlands.