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Ratty's Type S...Jap Performance Magazine porno
- 4thgenphil
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- RattyMcClelland
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Re: Ratty's Thaipess *PIC WHORE*
BODYWORK
So spraying panel by panel isnt really ideal if im honest. Not sure why i even attempted it.
1- It takes too long.
2- The spraying wont be consistent
3- The pearl coat on a 3 stage is the most important and needs to be completely even.
So lets start again.
Bumpers and skirts however are fine. They dont need respraying again as they are perfect from last time.
So having resprayed the N?S front wing from rolling the arches i wasnt happy with the minro large surface dent so i got a new wing of Cebul and rolled it.
All arches are now rolled.
New wing getting rolled and sanded back.

Nice and rolled

Primed with Bilt Hamber Electrox Zinc primer

After some curing i followed by Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic primer. Epoxy primer is waterproof and can be left untreated if you wish. Primer is pourour and soaks in water and dirt. Thats how it bonds with paint. But epoxy is much stronger and doesnt do this. Plus its rust resistant and bloody tough.
Its white and has a gloss to it pre sanded.

5th gen rust

I have this all over the Driver wing. Its from a bad prep bodyshop job.
Sanded back to bare metal and to reveal the paint rings.

Electrox

Door edge sanded back and electrox'd

And the arches


Epoxy mastic over the wing 1st coat and door edges. Went on too thick and it sagged everywhere and it takes 9 hours to dry even with heat.

Thats better. All primed up and readed for sanding back with p800

The result of pulling out the rear washer jet

Never mind lets get sealing the hole with epoxy sealer then Upol easy one body filler followed by dolphin glaze

Then epoxy primed.

De rear wipered.
And bootlid sanded back and epoxy primed.

Iv sanded back the bonnet from the respray i did on that and iv got to p800 the whole car back now ready for the full respray at a Chipsaway Bodyshop. Ill be doing it myself.
Next task is to respray all the shut lines from engine bay, door jambs, petrol cap jamb and boot jamb..
Got 6 litres of White Diamond pearl Base coat mixed up and 4/5 litres of pearl coat. This will be good for 4 coats and 3 coats respectively with loads left over. Then it will be on with 3 coats of Max meyer 0300 clearcoat so i can wet sand the frack out of it for a flat showroom finish. Paint isnt cheap. Around £300 of paint alone. PPG Nexa Aquabase +. Awesome paint IMO.
Cant wait.
Will update as i go.
So spraying panel by panel isnt really ideal if im honest. Not sure why i even attempted it.
1- It takes too long.
2- The spraying wont be consistent
3- The pearl coat on a 3 stage is the most important and needs to be completely even.
So lets start again.
Bumpers and skirts however are fine. They dont need respraying again as they are perfect from last time.
So having resprayed the N?S front wing from rolling the arches i wasnt happy with the minro large surface dent so i got a new wing of Cebul and rolled it.
All arches are now rolled.
New wing getting rolled and sanded back.

Nice and rolled

Primed with Bilt Hamber Electrox Zinc primer

After some curing i followed by Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic primer. Epoxy primer is waterproof and can be left untreated if you wish. Primer is pourour and soaks in water and dirt. Thats how it bonds with paint. But epoxy is much stronger and doesnt do this. Plus its rust resistant and bloody tough.
Its white and has a gloss to it pre sanded.

5th gen rust


I have this all over the Driver wing. Its from a bad prep bodyshop job.

Sanded back to bare metal and to reveal the paint rings.

Electrox

Door edge sanded back and electrox'd

And the arches


Epoxy mastic over the wing 1st coat and door edges. Went on too thick and it sagged everywhere and it takes 9 hours to dry even with heat.

Thats better. All primed up and readed for sanding back with p800

The result of pulling out the rear washer jet


Never mind lets get sealing the hole with epoxy sealer then Upol easy one body filler followed by dolphin glaze

Then epoxy primed.

De rear wipered.


Iv sanded back the bonnet from the respray i did on that and iv got to p800 the whole car back now ready for the full respray at a Chipsaway Bodyshop. Ill be doing it myself.
Next task is to respray all the shut lines from engine bay, door jambs, petrol cap jamb and boot jamb..
Got 6 litres of White Diamond pearl Base coat mixed up and 4/5 litres of pearl coat. This will be good for 4 coats and 3 coats respectively with loads left over. Then it will be on with 3 coats of Max meyer 0300 clearcoat so i can wet sand the frack out of it for a flat showroom finish. Paint isnt cheap. Around £300 of paint alone. PPG Nexa Aquabase +. Awesome paint IMO.
Cant wait.
Will update as i go.

- nucleustylzlude
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- W1ggz
- Posts: 2524
- Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 3:10 pm
- My Generation: 4G
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- Location: Portishead nr Bristol
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Re: Ratty's Thaipess *PIC WHORE*
Hope it turns out well for you mate. That's a lot of work to be doing outside in this weather even with the sun
Last edited by W1ggz on Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- rob quilter
- Supporter 2014
- Posts: 5331
- Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:40 pm
- My Generation: 5G
- PSN GamerTag: robquilter
- Location: Derby
Epic work going into this.


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- ddoubledanny
- LotM Winner
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- RattyMcClelland
- Moderator
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Re: Ratty's Thaipess *PIC WHORE*
It never wipes properly even with a new blade, it only removed a small section of water and rain x does a better job.nitin_s1 wrote:Epic Ratty. I love you more!![]()
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Just out of interest, why did you remove the rear wiper?
So i removed it for a cleaner look and 1-2kg less weight.
Just got to pull the hose out of the car now and block the motor end of the hose, and maybe find a stalk without a rear wiper control.
