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1995 4G Track Car Project

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Scott560
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Post by Scott560 » Thu May 17, 2018 3:32 pm

Interested in how the head unit turns out - considering a dual height android unit myself. Shame about the flexi section - mine has been stretched but not yet blowing.
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
'21 'e' Advance

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uberNoobZA
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Re: 1995 4G Track Car Project

Post by uberNoobZA » Thu May 17, 2018 3:43 pm

Scott560 wrote:Interested in how the head unit turns out - considering a dual height android unit myself. Shame about the flexi section - mine has been stretched but not yet blowing.
Double Din head unit installs in Preludes couldn't be easier. The only issue is that some of them are just a touch too big and result in the ISO mounting cage 'bulging' which means that it doesn't fit properly. Also, you often need to cut the rear of the metal frame that holds the OEM stereo and plastic storage pocket (unless you get a shorter 'mechless' unit).

I'll let y'all know how it goes and if I remember take some pictures while doing the install

I'll be connecting it up to the dual dashcams and reversing camera as well, which means I can get rid of hte LED display sat on my dash :D

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uberNoobZA
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Re: 1995 4G Track Car Project

Post by uberNoobZA » Mon May 21, 2018 10:10 am

Got the new head unit installed this weekend. It took me a couple of hours total, but that's because I did a little tidy up of the rats nest of wires behind the dash, and I took extra time to ensure everything was working at various stages of hte install (and cables were run and hidden away properly)

Android unit works as well as can be expected for the price, though I will say it's much faster than the previous Android head unit I had (this one has 4GB RAM vs 2GB, and is a newer chipset and OS). Pics of the install below

AFTER tidy of of previous rats nest of cables. Two video cables (yellow RCAs) are for reversing camera and dashcams (I can view them both on the headunit, and it auto switches to reversing camera when in reverse). Not shown are the antenna cables for GPS and Wireless Receiver
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Head unit was pretty simple to fit once I had the correct fitting cage (luckily I had experience with this make of head unit before, so kept a spare with me)
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Rather chunky microphone for hand free (pretty much useless with the amount of road and exhaust noise in the car, but still.....)
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GPS and WiFi receivers
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Home screen
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Radio
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Media Player
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And maps
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Don't look too bad, methinks. The temp and voltage gadget in he cigarette lighter has been replaced with an EE In Car Wireless Hotspot , which the head unit connects to with WiFi. Even though the head unit has 2 full sized USB connections, I can't use a USB Dongle, as the head unit only supports 3G cards, which are very hard to come by
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uberNoobZA
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Re: 1995 4G Track Car Project

Post by uberNoobZA » Mon May 21, 2018 1:37 pm

So... had a great weekend down at the coast. Spent most of it driving around with a mate taking his Soarer to MOT, and then looking for a new runaround for him. Prelude was handling beautifully, other than for the normal knocks, bumps, noises you'd expect from a lowered polybushed 23 year old car..... that is until I suddenly couldn't get her into a new gear. The clutch on her has always rid pretty high since I had her, but she was never like this. If she was in VTEC, then it was pretty much impossible to get her into the next gear, or the gear I had just come from. I had to skip gears. She also kept on 'shuddering' on pull off, as if she was going to stall, meaning I had to rev high on pull off and pop the clutch.

We limped back to Weymouth from Fordingbridge, and stopped by Halfords to get some brake and clutch fluid, and topped up her clutch fluid (we couldn't see where min and max was, so we just put a bunch in and hoped for the best)

I can generally change gear now, but she still feels rough, especially when changing gear in VTEC, She still shudders a bit on pull off.

Going to adjust the clutch and see if this has any effect.

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sol-lude
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Post by sol-lude » Mon May 21, 2018 1:45 pm

Slave cylinder? That's my guess if you can't see any prominent leaks.

Scott560
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Post by Scott560 » Mon May 21, 2018 1:51 pm

Always worth a bleed, its the easiest and cheapest thing to try first.

That said - you always need an extra pair of hands... Not as bad as an MR2 clutch bleed, need 3 sets of hands for that lol (reservoir under bonnet, pedal in cabin, engine/gbox at the back). Give me a shout if you need one or fancy a trip to didcot some time - been about 15 years since i was in a 4th gen!
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Re: 1995 4G Track Car Project

Post by uberNoobZA » Mon May 21, 2018 1:58 pm

May give that a go. Thanks

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Re: 1995 4G Track Car Project

Post by uberNoobZA » Mon May 28, 2018 5:19 pm

Ever since I took the back seats out, the noise from the tyres and the exhaust is much louder (obviously), and if I every brake just a little harder than normal ( often, the way I drive :lol: ), then stuff from the boot comes flying into the front of the car. To help remedy this, I originally put back the metal frame that the back seats bolted onto, and this helped a little with the projectiles from the boot.

As I was replacing my rear speakers, I thought I'd take the opportunity to make the speakers sounds better, as well as solve some of the noise issue and ensure that even small items didn't become projectiles under braking.

Measured and cut some 18mm MDF and made some speaker holes, and mounted the MDF onto the metal frame that goes behind the rear seats
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One can of Halfords Matt Black rattle can spray later,
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And fitted back in the car, with some new speakers
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I've left the old speaker covers stuck to the parcel tray trim (minus the crappy old speakers).

And as this is supposed to be a track car (yeah, I might even take it on track one day....) the speakers are on quick release connector plugs, and the whole speaker panel comes off by undoing 7 size 10 bolts :lol: . The spare wheel subwoofer is also on a quick release, so all the extra weight for the sound system comes out in about 4 minutes :D

The speakers sound sooo much better where they are now, and even though the MDF doesn't cover the entire gap between the boot and the cabin, it makes a noticeable difference in noise levels.

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