Sol-Lude's Build

[vanzep]

If your unsure if the abs is working then id look upon it as a perfect opportunity to remove the lot.
Should save a load of weight.
The vaccum line from the resonator/air box can be removed up to the inlet where you can fit a t piece to make it work.
That is if you are removing the resonator in the front wing. Pretty sure the resonator is just to quieten the induction noise and also restricts airflow under 3200rpm.
Can get you some pics from my BB4 if you need

nice to hear there is another BB4 kicking about - get Ryanmustard to get some pics up

just as well your replacing the clutch and flywheel - that bolt looks well skimmed

[sol-lude]

Vanzep The ABS was working when it was on the road and was hoping to have this cleaned up and keep the ABS and TCS yes it would be a weight saver but think overall I would prefer to have the unit in although it looks blooming awful haha.

yeah if you could show me how it sits on the lude engine with you as its just a pointless piece in the lude for me as will be removing this (removed).

Ryan has some photos dotting about Nick some dirty dirty pictures

Yeah although that's not the engine going back in pretty worrying to think I have done 150+ (in a safe and legal environment) and that bolt could have lodged into the clutch. Bloody trigger happy wannabe mechanics with air guns. Shouldn't be near a car.

[Drax]

if your ABS is working, i agree leave it in. unless your going for a mega lightweight track hack its nice to have. my ABS on the BB1 is rusty to hell as well, just clean it up with a wire brush the best you can, get all the surface rust off and then once the engine is back in its hidden away again so you wont have you look at it

[JEBB4]

Just had abit of a catch up on this, very impressive work with the EL clock swap, looked like a nightmare ..
It's awesome that you are resurrecting this lude, most would have scrapped it with the amount of corrosion that's in it, I admire your enthusiasm sir!

[sol-lude]

Drax, that was the plan, im intending on spraying the bay so preferably I want to remove and get it cleaned and sprayed behind im just worried that in doing so im going to mess something up. Also the Air con pipes run under this so either block from whats left or remove into the cabin. Just never removed an ABS Unit before so trying to cover all avenues before I take it out.

Jebb4, Thanks for the kind words. The dash overall I probably over complicated this as I think 4thgenphil said but just wanted to make sure it was all done. correct and still have the 4WS light on show if needed. Yes it crossed my mind on a number of occasions but this is something that I will be keeping for the rest of my life. With this it will be something me and my son will work on for years to come. However once its done its done and ill know every nook and cranny of her.
Although I question my enthusiasm regularly. This year is the year that lots of time will go into the bay and the shell.

[vanzep]

here is a link to Honda Hardy;s lude profile - with the resonator removal info

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/post130 ... al#p130252

[Vtecmec]

The resonator, as well as restricting the air flow at low rpm's, lengthens the intake tract and is a tuned length. Honda went to a lot of trouble to design it that way.

Unless your significantly modding the engine and remapping then it's probably best kept in place. You will suffer some torque loss without it and as for the higher rpm's, remember the type-s makes 220bhp with one of those in place.........

[vanzep]

Sure there are pros and cons but if you want to get the most out of your H22 you will want to get as much air in as possible
removing the resonator will decrease fuel economy, increase induction&exhaust noise and your filter may get a bit damp if you try fording a river i dont think there is any loss in power at any point in fact i think the opposite is true

[sol-lude]

The resonator, as well as restricting the air flow at low rpm's, lengthens the intake tract and is a tuned length. Honda went to a lot of trouble to design it that way.

Unless your significantly modding the engine and remapping then it's probably best kept in place. You will suffer some torque loss without it and as for the higher rpm's, remember the type-s makes 220bhp with one of those in place.........

The engine that's going back in the lude is the ATR H22a5 which will be getting likely a P28 ECU and will be mapped. The likelihood is I will be running a long arm intake so will be needing the space. So baring this in mind if I have the removal done for as per Honda Hardys then this should be fine after a map. Or should I just relocate with the same length on the vaccum pipe?

Sure there are pros and cons but if you want to get the most out of your H22 you will want to get as much air in as possible
removing the resonator will decrease fuel economy, increase induction&exhaust noise and your filter may get a bit damp if you try fording a river i dont think there is any loss in power at any point in fact i think the opposite is true

Nick this will be going nowhere near any fords well not the wet kind anyway.

[sol-lude]

Okay guys not quite an update looking for advice.
The lude is currently sitting on axle stands no wheels suspension etc. I would like to raise it higher off the ground for attacking the clean and underseal section of work.

As you will see it's on chuckies at the moment and would like to roll it back lay slabs then get it back on the slabs in order to raise higher on axle stands.

I have an idea of using a couple of fence posts with castors on the bottom in order to roll it back to lay the slabs.

Anyone have any alternatives or experience in doing this or should it work. No engine in front saves some weight.

Plans below?



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