Jay's 3rd Gen Build

[jay m3]

Jay I think this is a characteristic of these cars, the best set up i had, and even that wasn't great was Tokico Blue Struts and H&R Race springs. My suspension is absolutely shagged I think at least 2 of the shocks are dead so its an ideal time to do some upgrading. The exchange rate is depressing though so I'm hoping I might find a deal on preludepower for sale section

Hi Greg

Just to report back to you. I had my car in the garage to firstly raise the front end a little as it was silly low. After that was done, I asked my mechanic to adjust the damper control. To my amazement, it took literally 2mins to adjust all 4 to the softest setting as they were initially set to harshest setting. Took it for a drive & it is absolutely amazing. I absolutely love the drive now. Next stop is a decent alarm system on the car as I hate having to put the key in everytime to open the car. Any recommendations?

[jay m3]

Amazing job and the welding repairs look spot on.! Can I ask what your respray costs were? I need a similar job doing but might consider not doing it myself if the price is reasonable!

Thanks for the compliments bud. The respray was done at a slightly discounted rate as my mate done it. That being said, still wasn't cheap as all trims & mouldings came off. Sprayed separately. There are a few imperfections & will go back in to get them rectified. Total cost of just the respray came to 2k.

[Metalhead]

Amazing job and the welding repairs look spot on.! Can I ask what your respray costs were? I need a similar job doing but might consider not doing it myself if the price is reasonable!

Thanks for the compliments bud. The respray was done at a slightly discounted rate as my mate done it. That being said, still wasn't cheap as all trims & mouldings came off. Sprayed separately. There are a few imperfections & will go back in to get them rectified. Total cost of just the respray came to 2k.

Thanks Jay - that's around what I expected and it looks like you got a REALLY good finish. My car is stripped completely but still need to attend to all the tinworm. Once that's done I need to decide whether to paint myself (it's a few years since I painted a full car and it's all water-based paint now so new to me!) or hand over £1500-£2000 for a full pro repaint. Food for thought!

[Greg]

Thanks jay, thats certainly given me something to think about as its certainly one of the downsides I felt the car had when lowered.

[jay m3]

Guys i was wondering if you could help me. My car has an issue the ALB. As I start driving the ALB kick in as soon as i brake which is really annoying. Then the ALB light comes on & the car brakes fine. Before the ALB light used to come on straight away but now is taking longer & braking is quite bad until the light comes on.

What is the problem?

[RattyMcClelland]

Guys i was wondering if you could help me. My car has an issue the ALB. As I start driving the ALB kick in as soon as i brake which is really annoying. Then the ALB light comes on & the car brakes fine. Before the ALB light used to come on straight away but now is taking longer & braking is quite bad until the light comes on.

What is the problem?

I had this problem in my 3rd Gen. The ABS modulator behind the left side of the dash kept clicking away. I think that was the issues. I sold mine before i resolved it. Worst mistake selling.

[Metalhead]

Guys i was wondering if you could help me. My car has an issue the ALB. As I start driving the ALB kick in as soon as i brake which is really annoying. Then the ALB light comes on & the car brakes fine. Before the ALB light used to come on straight away but now is taking longer & braking is quite bad until the light comes on.

What is the problem?

If the ABS is kicking in as soon as the brakes are applied the ABS ECU (behind the centre console) believes the wheels are turning at different speeds. If the ABS light comes on afterwards (and the ABS is subsequently disabled) the ABS ECU has continued to receive a reading that's outside it's usual spec and switched the system off. Can you get the error code? If it were my car I'd visually inspect everything too (the sensors, hub rings, ABS pump/modulator and accumulator) and as Ratty has pointed out, listen out for the ABS relay clicking (from under the bonnet fuse box) as the fault might not be a sensor, as is the usual suspect, but the electronic signal that's passed to the ABS ECU.

Getting the ABS fault code is step one though and work from there...

http://mustardcat.brinkster.net/p3g/Doc ... LBCode.htm

[jay m3]

Thanks for that metalhead, i can hear the clicking so does it mean it's something to do with the ALB ecu?

[Metalhead]

Thanks for that metalhead, i can hear the clicking so does it mean it's something to do with the ALB ecu?

Possibly - sorry it's hard to say without the code. Can you get to the little window to count the flashes? (it on the passenger side to the side of the centre console near where your feet would be. You'll need to unclip the cover trim. Don't start the car just put the ignition on to where all the dash light illuminate.

[prelude91]

Sounds like the ABS pump to me. I had this issue some years ago. The symptoms were a whirring/ clicking, almost turbine like sound that resonated through the bodywork and brake pedal. The pump itself is located just below the battery tray in the engine bay, front left hand side.