Lude Generation

Hagland-BB4 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 09, 2019 8:39 am

Why is all the pictures blurry.
Im missing out seeing these beauts lol

You lost me. Pictures are clear.

for me they are all blurry with the photobucket watermark???

RattyMcClelland wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:19 pm

Can't believe how light it feels, the supercharger adds 40kg of weight to the top of the engine and 5kg for the water injection so with that gone. Plus I can use a strut bar so it's feels lively, light and stiff.
Got its personality back.

Amazing what a difference this makes to cars. I know with a supercharger the weight wasn't hanging out over the front axle but when my friend turbo'd his 5th gen it completely changed the handling, felt nose heavy to me.

With your strut bar of course helping to keep the geometry of the suspension where it should be and the inside wheel down.

Hagland-BB4 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 09, 2019 3:48 pm

for me they are all blurry with the photobucket watermark???

Hmm odd. I know what you mean but they all work for me. Anyone else having this issue?

They look ok from here.....

They work for me too. I've noticed a lot of mine are the same though, blurry image with Photofucket logo. I've completely given up on them now. Google Photos is so much better!

It only seems to be the 1st 70 pages lol, the last are all ok, weird.
Just caught up on this Build, this is looking good.
I personally would love to do a Supercharged K20 in my lude but there is something about the H22, maybe one day.

Love minial jobs that make the biggest difference.

For a while now my indicators when turning right don't self cancel, you can hear it click and fail to cancel. Also my rear wiper switch is useless since I deleted the rear wipe mechanism and wiring.

Well this turned up on eBay. A JDM stalk switch for a jdm prelude without rear wipers. Boom. £15 delivered. I'll smash that out.




This is the main difference in wiring. An extra wiring harness comming out of the stalk on the rear wiper model.


Disconnect battery, Remove steering wheel, remove srs harness with 3 screws. Remove stalks with 4 screws. Swap and rescue. Done. 15mins from start to finish.

And it works.

I have several other minial jobs to do over winter to improve everyday driving and basic maintenance.


I'll uploads my whole 10 years of car audio mods into this thread also since it was lost when photobuckets failed and was posted in a car audio specific thread.

A couple of years ago i sanded out the minor rust on the inside lip of the arches and treated it.
Well its that time of year again. Keep ontop of things.

Some minor bubbling. Nothing too bad.



Grinded out the rust to bare metal with a dremel. Treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and then coated with Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic and cured under Infra red heatlamp. Did both sides.






Next up. Got sick of my bonnet pole holder rattling around at idle since the Skunk2 pro 2 cams do offer a tad rough idle. The solution was Bonnet strut dampers off ebay. Shipped from Taiwan and arrived within 3 days. Literally bolt on. Easy.





And finally since i went back to brand new OEM engine mounts to get rid of the awful Innovative 75a engine mounts i still wasnt able to use the OEM front engine mount because of the Hytech header. I had to use the Innovative 75a as its slimmer. It still caused some unwanted engine harshness.
Well i managed to find a Innovative 60a mount. Innovative have stopped making 60a engine mounts but this arrived and i swapped it right over. Again very easy. 30min job.
The engine vibration is much smoother and bareable, less dash vibrations and slighlty quieter. The balancer shaft delete still makes the car shake and harsh but this is much better.
I'll save the 75a engine mount in case i have issues with the 60a mount, its known to warp slightly, however that is typically limited to the transmission mounts usually that were not made well.

Nice work, your car is looking awesome!