'99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.

[NafemanNathan]

I love the pure amount of attention to detail you're putting into this build bud. Are you not going to rough up the inlet ports a tad to churn up the A/F mix though?

[wurlycorner]

I love the pure amount of attention to detail you're putting into this build bud. Are you not going to rough up the inlet ports a tad to churn up the A/F mix though?

I've been too much of a wuss to ask that, on account of not wanting to look like a gentleman's sausage (for a change) but yep, I've heard conflicting views about whether it's good to smooth port inlets, or leave them rough on the basis that if the air swirls, it mixes better with the fuel and hence, you get a more efficient explosion and hence, MORE POWER!!!

[BlackShadow]

Good question. I forgot to mention that when posting. I will be scuffing the surfaces up a bit before installation. The mirror finish is (for now) to help me find the pits, bumps and uneven parts. It also helps the telescoping gauge slide in and out.

[NafemanNathan]

[BlackShadow]

I got a call from my friends over at Grounded Conceptz today, alerting me to the arrival of these!

Ferrea 5504/5506:






I've still been working away on the full on port and polish. I'm not sure which side I hate more? The tedium and nail biting stress of making the intake runners identical to one another, while making the surface smooth (but not too smooth), or the total PITA that it is to give the exhaust ports a mirror finish.


Gasket width (measured from a straight edge line marked on the gasket):


Port width:


Untouched port:



Gasket matched, with the final roughened surface applied:



Standard H22A Type-S factory port and polish. Note where the special treatment ends near the valve guide. It is fairly smooth, but it can be improved upon.


Polished bowl. This area was ported and polished from the factory, but had some imperfections. The valve seat was much better than a standard H22 head, but I smoothed the transition out further:



People have said that the level of crazy/insane has gone off the charts with this part of the job. This may be true. I never pictured myself hand porting and polishing a cylinder head when I first embarked upon this ride. Idle hands...


I would strongly urge anyone viewing this, NOT to try this unless you:

1) Know exactly what you are doing.

2) Have the means to see the job through to the end regardless of how long it takes. You cannot start, do a good job on one runner, then half ass the rest because you're sick of it. It is a ton of work to do. Pace yourself, and follow through.

3) Intend to use the proper measuring tools and methods for checking the volume of each runner. I am using calipers, telescoping gauges, and measuring the volume with water. You cannot eyeball this.

4) Are willing to gamble the value of a cylinder head. If you spent a grand on a head, don't do this. I got mine really cheap, and if this one goes south, I could very easily "Type-S" a standard H22A4 head.


Now that the valves have come in, I have to get back to work on the porting so I can get them installed, and put this head to bed.

[wurlycorner]

That's some serious work doing that all by hand. Hats off to you!

[Carlosfandango]

Wow fella If you ask me, you've got the perfect level of obsession...just wish I had

[Merlin]

Great work, that is some next level jobby right there.

[NafemanNathan]

You will win LOTM

[K30DPC]

Are those valves any better over OEM ones? and why not 6000 series? And one more. Is it standard size or +1mm?