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Vtecmec's 4th Gen

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quarkhimself
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Post by quarkhimself » Tue May 23, 2017 8:54 pm

Vtecmec wrote:Post 17 - Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010



And the housing with nothing inside. There is loads of oil inside as the seal that sits around the input shaft has perished.

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[-o<
@vtecmec i have the same problem with my lude, an annoying oil leak coming from behind the dizzy. how did you solve this ? what part did you buy , and where from ?
Last edited by quarkhimself on Tue May 23, 2017 10:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by quarkhimself » Tue May 23, 2017 10:04 pm

Vtecmec wrote:Finally I decided to make my own power steering cooler, just a bent aluminium pipe basically.

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@vtecmec it seems i also have the same problem, mine is so rusted that it started to leak. would you say this is an easy job ? what diameter pipe did you use ?
Last edited by quarkhimself on Tue May 23, 2017 10:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by SPYDOR » Tue May 23, 2017 10:19 pm

I'm sure Vtecmec will give a helpful reply when he can; you do also have the option of buying a Mishimoto universal transmission/power steering cooler for £60: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mishimoto-Uni ... 1JUae7L53w

They are very well made and easy to fit, although somewhat overkill as many people say you can just get away with the aluminium pipe without any heatsink fins on it, although I prefer to keep temps as low as possible with most things. Gives you an extra option if you don't have the time to make your own.
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Re: Vtecmec's 4th Gen

Post by Vtecmec » Tue May 23, 2017 10:24 pm

I replaced the dizzy as a whole unit as it had other issues too, though that rear seal can be bought from Honda on its own.

The PS cooler pipe was 10mm I think, was so long ago......

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Post by quarkhimself » Tue May 23, 2017 10:36 pm

thanks for the quick reply,@spydor. it does seem a bit overkill, and i know 60 pound is not really that expensive but i would rather go for a cheaper alternative if possible. if this cooler is for power steering fluid only i would imagine it should do fine without the cooling fins.
@vtecmec i'm planning to replace the dizzy and the seal as well, i'll try to find the part number and check the price, and might leave it here in case someone runs into the same problem. thanks for your quick reply and helpful info. you are trully the 4th gen guru ! :D
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Post by firstlude » Tue May 23, 2017 10:56 pm

this is my cooler seems to look very similar :lol:

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Post by quarkhimself » Tue May 23, 2017 11:34 pm

Vtecmec wrote: that rear seal can be bought from Honda on its own.
@vtecmec is this the part i should replace ?
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/h ... 1-732.html
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Post by vanzep » Wed May 24, 2017 11:44 am

good work as usual :)

that powerflow back box with the shocking welds came off bris old red 4th gen :shock:

im interested to hear how the new driveshaft from rockauto works out - thats a really good price 8-)
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Re: Vtecmec's 4th Gen

Post by Vtecmec » Thu May 25, 2017 9:18 pm

Yeah, those welds were really poor on that exhaust, but it's all good now.

The driveshaft looks good TBH, I opted for the most expensive one they did, so hopefully it should be good for a while.

A bit more progress………..

I got to fit the uprated ARB’s the other day.

Front old and new.

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Rear old and new.

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It’s made a pretty significant difference to the car, it handles pretty well now, certainly good enough for a road car.

Then onto the steering wheel, initially I bought a 330mm wheel, but when I fitted it there was an issue.

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As you can see I can’t see the clocks when driving, coupled with the fact that it makes my hands feel massive, off it came.

So, I then obtained a 365mm wheel, slightly smaller than stock (380mm), this took more time to get it right than I’d like to admit, but now I have a race wheel with cruise buttons.

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I’ve fitted the front and rear number plates which has made the car look significantly cleaner as I fitted them without screws, this required a perspex plinth to be fabricated for the rear, which now looks like it floats in its spot.

Previously I forgot to show pics of the new n/s knuckle I fitted, including a new bearing, I did a quick write up here of the replacement.

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/chassis ... 20748.html

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And the finished knuckle.

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Just need to get an o/s knuckle and then rinse and repeat.

I’ve also obtained a replacement front bumper bar as my bumper has never sat quite right on the o/s (the crash of 2009!), so it’s now clean and ready for fitting.

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Some random shots from a drive in the nice weather yesterday.

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Post by Donald » Tue Jun 06, 2017 4:56 am

Noice.

I think the TypeR wheels are 360 or 365 right?

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