Newbie in Maidstone

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:35 pm

Your pic, btw;

You need to copy and paste the contents of the "IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards" box on the TinyPic page, into the message on here, then it'll display fine.

Post by **Donald** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:12 pm

Edna Road, let the stalking begin.

happyclappy · Post by **happyclappy** » Wed May 01, 2013 9:47 am

I can use a hammer!!

happyclappy · Post by **happyclappy** » Wed May 08, 2013 6:26 pm

Hi Wurly,
OK. 4WS light flashes twice only which I take to mean code 20. First problem arises when the 5P connector comes off the back of the of the main steering sensor on the steering column. The wires are in a different sequence to the manual but there appears to be 4.5 V in the right places. Checking the 18P connector terminals gives a steady 4.7 V instead of pulsing. However, I only have a voltmeter with a digital readout and not an analogue one thats specified. I don't think there can be any broken wires anywhere because the system works when pottering around, it just seems to be when im getting on the gas or chucking it around.
Theres also a code 49 on the TCS but I cant find reference to TCS in the manual!
Cheers, ete

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed May 08, 2013 8:29 pm

Oh, you have TCS too!

Yep, that's not in the main manual and no-one's been able to find a supplement that covers it either

I'd interpret it to be the same code.
Looking at the manual, some of the fault finding for that code does get pretty involved.

If it only fails when chucking it around, it could still be a wiring fault or one of the grounds it mentions though? (The vibration/motion could cause the intermittent break to occur).

Does the 4WS light always go out every time from start up?
If it sometimes fails on start up, then I'd definitely suggest it's worth trying the re-solder trick on the ECU as a possible quick win, before looking to chase out all the wiring or investing in an analogue meter. I say that because on the fault tree for code 20 each of the branches does end in fault ECU if everything else checks out, so it would still fit with that. If it is the ECU though, I would expect it to sometimes fail on start up

Even if it doesn't always fail on start up, it probably is still worth trying re-soldering, because it's pretty straight forward to do and it is a common problem on them now they've aged. Trying this could still avoid the more involved fault finding.

The guide to re-soldering is here btw:
Written guide;
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=886363
Pictures;
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=886363&page=3

Personally I re-soldered a few more joints than just the ones they've highlighted.

Keep us updated how you get on and we'll be happy to help further where we can!

happyclappy · Post by **happyclappy** » Wed May 08, 2013 10:07 pm

The 4WS light is on permanently unless I reset it by taking out the clock fuse. It stays off so long as I drive gently, which is difficult coz it sounds nice and generally goes round corners nicely. I try to go slow, honest, constable!!

Thanks for all your input Iain, it really is appreciated. Will check out your links.
Pete

happyclappy · Post by **happyclappy** » Wed May 08, 2013 10:21 pm

OMG!! The link with the pics is a bit easier to understand than the Polish guy. Job for tomorrow then.
Nice one.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed May 08, 2013 11:30 pm

happyclappy wrote:The 4WS light is on permanently unless I reset it by taking out the clock fuse.

Ah good, that adds weight to trying the ECU re-solder then.

Hope it works for you!

happyclappy · Post by **happyclappy** » Sat May 11, 2013 1:59 pm

Welded the ten points in the ECU as per instructions then couldn't reverse out the drive without the 4WS light coming on. While I was on that link you sent I read some of the other posts and the rear gubbins was mentioned. So I jacked the back up and sure enough the arse-end was quite shitty. I took the earth off, wire brushed around the area, liberal coating of WD40. Still the light came on before I got out the drive. Backed out anyway then reset the system. The light stayed off then until I arrived back home. As I reversed into a parking slot across the road, Ping! Light on. I'd just given the ol' girl a bit of a beasting up the local dual carriageway, no probs.
I reset the system again before running it around to the garage for a wash down and turning left into the garage, Ping! light on again.
This morning, drove into town, into multi-storey. Fine until I reversed slowly into a parking slot. Hard right, as soon as I started to straighten up, Ping! Its not really a Ping! Its more of a loud click coz I dont have the back seat in at the moment, I can hear all kinds of noises coming out of the ECU! After a Costa, reset it again and gave it another thrash up the hill. Light came on on a righthand bend at about 90mph (ish). Although the road was a bit bumpy at that point.
So still none the wiser!

Still code 20 so reluctant to start messing too much with rear coz thats not mentioned in the fault code guide. Front sub sensor, front main steering sensor, ECU or harness connector are.
The steering sensor behind the steering wheel has a little bit of play in it. Is that normal?
If I start taking sensors off to clean do the wheels have to be dead straight or will the system know which way the wheels are pointing?

Pete

happyclappy · Post by **happyclappy** » Sat May 11, 2013 2:32 pm

I was hoping to get this sorted before the end of May. If you have a spare half hour or so, don't fancy having a look, do you? I can be up there in less than an hour. Obviously getting a bit desparate now!

Or anyone in the Maidstone area, kettles always on.

Lude Generation

Newbie in Maidstone

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