Lude Generation

Hi Luders I'm on a pretty tight budget and need to get another lamda sensor after a very cheap one seems to have gone bad after only a few months.
My car is mostly stock 4G BB1 running H22A1 with de-cat Janspeed exhaust.

Can anyone recommend a good value lamda/o2 sensor and supplier for me please?
I don't want to waste time but haven't got money to burn on brand allegiance.

I am getting through a bit of oil. like we all do when hooning around with synthetic oil and am thinking I'll need to put new rings on it maybe this winter.

I get a CEL if I drive at less than a ton and pull code 43 when I get back home.

Slight smell of exhaust leads me to think go put new downpipe gasket on first...

Cheers Dan

You should be able to pick up an ntk (part of ngk) sensor through a local motor factors, no problem. They're good quality.

What makes you think the lambda sensor has failed?

I got my lambda sensor from RockAuto in the US (NTK/NGK part # 24169). (1994 4th gen')
See the Trader's Section. I think I paid approx £60.

@ wurlycorner Iain
I thought probably lambda sens after getting CEL and code 43.

Does it not sound like that to you?

it's the only cheapo part on the car and it's just been put on there, car never throws any codes usually.

Thanks for the tips anyway wurly, pushki.

I haven't had a chance to get into it today, maybe tomorrow.

Might try the old sensor again after doing downpipe gasket, even 50 quid is a significant outlay if not def the culprit.
Will get an NTK one though if it has to be done.

Cheers chaps.

If you have an exhaust system leak up-stream of the lambda sensor (i.e. before the sensor) that can definitely cause the sensor to mis-read and give an emissions fault.

Hello again Luderunners.
A few months have passed since I last asked for some help.
As always any helpful comments appreciated.

Here's my situation now, I have been getting a CEL and code 41 again .
The replacement o2 sensor from Gendan went down with an open circuit across the heater element.

Grant from Gendan replaced this for me with a new one which lasted about a month and gave me a nice lean running happy driving car, until it too failed with the same symptom as the first. CEL and code 41.

So after establishing that the heater signal is absent I start tracing back the missing heater voltage to pin A6 at the ecu where my multimeter should measure 12v .
It is not present on the pin with the ignition on.

Am I to assume this means I have a faulty ECU?

is it chipped? has the ecu been changed is it a uk in a jdm or vice versa

Good detective work
Should it be present with the ignition on, or just with the engine running? What does the service manual say?

Thanks for replies, still going strong, actually mid MOT at the moment .
This is my daily driver so stays on the road at all times.

Not a bad list of things to do for the re-test;
Nearside front tyre fitted wrongly inside/outside ( I know who did this )
High level brake light inoperative- easy fix.
One ripped track rod end ball joint boot needs replacing.
& that's all

Wurly; Thanks. As far as I know 12v heater signal should be present with ignition on.
I'm wondering what creates the heated o2 signal now. What conditions have to be met?

Found another ecu, a 'virgin' p13 according to the seller.
It runs ok but I'm still getting code 41.
So with a second ecu giving same symptom, I'm fairly confident the trouble originates elsewhere.

The emissions are just about within permissible limits according to my MOT tester.
EGR system and FIT valve could do with clean out I reckon. They are next to-do.
I'm running an o2 sensor pulled off a civic I found at the breakers yard until I can get a better one.

Any more ideas anyone?