Ok all, yes EXTREMELY belated (many apologies) but to formally give nitin_s1 the accolade he won last July :wtf: after a very close run vote with TazzmanianDevil94

(Basically nitin is just so special, that he gets a huge long build up to the announcement - that's my excuse anyway and I'm sticking to it!)

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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Got a car that isn't a Lude? There's no condemnation here. Tell us about it!
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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by nitin_s1 » Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:52 pm

You always post great work in depth. :clap:

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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by geriatrix » Thu Mar 07, 2019 10:06 pm

Terrific work. This is the sort of chap you need to buy a car from. :-)

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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by prelude_h22 » Thu Mar 07, 2019 10:25 pm

Great write up :thumbup:
Thanks norks :)
Great write up and lovely car, i've been really tempted to pick one of these up this year, regards the starter motor my DC5 does it too especially in the winter months as you say its a well known issue but no apparent fix so i just live with it cos 'they all do it'.
Ahhh I hear it also effected anything with a K20 engine as it uses the same start motor. Pretty disappointing.
Shall see how long it lasts with the blueprint starter.
LO :D
Great job matey :mrgreen:
My pet hate is convertables because I haven't yet seen a car that looks better as a convertable over the fixedhead version only My opinion peops :D
I love the S2000 but it looks so much better with the hardtop on 8)
I would never take it off :lol:
Cheers all ;)
Toadster
Thanks Toaster, you know I always wanted the s2000 with the hardtop hence buying the brackets for it even before I bought the car. LOL.
Never really been a convertible type of person, although it was enjoyable to experience the s2000 top down during last summer.
I have lost the storage opportunity for the hardtop now so the hardtop will be staying on for now.
Have to say though, you are right, the hardtop completes the look of the s2000 for me.
Lovely car and great work bringing it back to perfect health. I wish I could afford one but over here they go for 18-24K€ :shock:
The hardtop makes a whole lot of difference visually, looks smashing!
Thanks tom023, still far from perfect but hopefully I will make more progress this year whilst I can.
Yeah, the hardtop makes a world of difference. It seems Honda should have made the hardtop coupe version of the s2000.
Crikey, 18-24k euros. Sounds about right, facelift 2006 onwards here can fetch £13k-£14k easily.

This immaculate one form Torque GT is going for 17k :wtf:
https://www.torque-gt.co.uk/s2000-050319.html

Haha, my one was cheap as it needed alot of work but I am just grateful I actually got an opportunity to own one.

You always post great work in depth. :clap:
Cheers nitin, hope your well and the lude is going great.
Terrific work. This is the sort of chap you need to buy a car from. :-)
Thanks geriatrix, great to hear from you. Hope my ex prelude is treating you well 8)

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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by prelude_h22 » Sun Jun 09, 2019 4:13 pm

Hi Guys,
Here’s another update on the s2000.
Enjoy :)


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Task 50 - Engine & Gearbox Mount Replacement
29-04-2019

For quite a while it has been noticed that there is always a slight vibration upon low rev heavy load acceleration.
The vibration symptom often occurs under load, i.e when engine is on idle and the clutch is lifted to provide load.
A rattle type vibration is heard, of course most car engine's vibrate when the engine is loaded like this, but it definitely was not a normal sound and vibrations seemed to be felt quite perceptible in the cabin.

This did not affect the way the car drove so it was not really a priority to rectify. Some basic checks were performed to see if the mounts were confirmed bad.

These checks are:

-Inspect both front engine mounts.
These mounts are fluid filled, they can rip or tear causing an orange type fluid to leak out of them.
Once the mounts are in this state, vibration can occur.

-Use a crow bar and balance it on the top suspension turret mount and lower engine mount
This can check for any excess engine movement indicating a worn or damage mount

-Exhaust assembly checked for any loose components or hangers.

The vibration can also point towards worn rear drive axles. However this particular symptom only occurs at higher acceleration speeds. Therefore this can be ruled out.
If you are experiencing a symptom like this, the solution is to swap over the drive axles.
Link in the "resources used section" below for more info.

The engine mounts on an s2000 are notoriously quite week, and even after performing all the checks above proving that the mounts are fine I was convinced they were not. The car is now 20 years old so it would benefit from having new mounts.

Once black Friday approached (Nov 2018), it was my opportunity to purchase a set of OEM Honda mounts at a discounted price. An order was placed for a set of x2 front engine mounts and x2 rear gearbox mounts.
The existing rear gearbox mounts looked fine but it made sense to replace them all.

The supplier took an age to deliver them, almost 4 months.
However, once they arrived they looked the part.

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After viewing several DIY videos on the installation, the procedure looked pretty straight forward.
The only thing is that my trolley jack just doesn't go high enough, living in a flat my choice of tools are quite limited.
The trolley jack I have is the low type Clarke 1.25 ton jack which is the light weight version. Purely so I can carry it back upstairs.

So with this dilemma, I had to call my mechanic friend to help out. The same guy who helped install the facelift s2000 suspension set.

A lovely warm spring day arrived, I took the day off and grabbed the opportunity to get them installed.
I booked him in and we both got to work. He has a nice heavy duty trolley jack which lifted the s2000 pretty high up.

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The process was pretty straight forward with no issues or seized bolts.
The replacement OEM mounts fitted perfectly.

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Once the installation was complete the vibration was eliminated, and made the car much more pleasurable to drive at low speeds under load.
It was also noticed that the gearshift did not vibrate as much, so replacing the gearbox mounts was also a great benefit too.

A fantastic result.


Parts Purchased:
Part: Front Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50810-S2A-003
Supplier: Htune

Part: Gearbox Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50806-S2A-000
Supplier: Htune

Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)

Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replace engine mounts on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75J4gXCpirc

Youtube Video
"Testing s2000 Engine Mounts"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6w4m6y3288

For info
s2ki Thread - "Vibration Upon Acceleration" (Swapping Drive Axles)
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland- ... n-1000340/


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Task 51 - Oil Service 2019
30-03-2019

It has almost been one year since the last oil service, so the second service was now due.
With only having driven approximately 3000 miles within this time, a basic oil and oil filter service was all that was needed.

The oil used this time round was Shell's Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5w40, and a genuine Honda s2000 filter was purchased.

Grabbed a bottle at a great price so I couldn't complain.
The previous oil used was "motul x-cess 5w40" which was also a great oil.
The next time I will try out Castrol's Edge 5w40 FST type oil.

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There is alot of debate on what oil to use, check the s2ki FAQ threads.
For the oil grade, stick to Honda's recommendation or S2ki FAQ thread, or the oil grade that the car has been running on previously from its service history if it states it.
There is generally no bad or good brand of oil. The best advice is to change it regularly.

The oil change was straight forward, when finalizing and torqing up the new oil filter, a witness mark was placed on the oil filter and oil filter engine block plate. This is a clear easy indication to tell me if the oil filter starts loosening.

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There have been reports of oil filters coming loose due to the high revving nature of the f20 engine.
This witness marking is a simple easy way to tell if the oil filter moves at all.
There are special clamps which can be purchased to lock the filters in place (pretty expensive for what it is), however after removing the old oil filter and with that being pretty secured, I felt that the clamp was not required. If a clamp is seen 2nd hand at a good price it will be purchased.

Whilst the service was underway, I also decided to remove and check all spark plugs.
Being the iridium type and only replaced last year, they had a mountain of life ahead of them.
All spark plugs were checked and none of them were loose prior to removal.
(There also had been reports of spark plugs coming loose, Honda has since revised the torque specs of the spark plug to combat this)

A quick wire brush showed that all spark plugs were in good condition and sparking well.

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The PCV valve was also removed , checked and cleaned.
If shaken, you should be able to hear a rattle which confirms that the PCV valve is in good working order.
The rattle was present, a quick spray of brake cleaner and it was re-installed.

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The map sensor was also removed, checked and clean.
Special CRC cleaning spray was used for this component. Brake cleaner will be too harsh and can possibly damage this device.

Everything looked good, with only 3000 miles it was hardly surprising but it was good to see everything in good functional order.


Parts Purchased:
Part: Shell Helix 5w40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Helix Ultra 5w40
Supplier: Opie OIls

Part: Genuine s2000 Honda OEM Oil Filter
Honda Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune

Part: CRC Sensor Spray
Part Number: 30498
Supplier: Ebay

Part: Brake Cleaner (normfest Mc1)
Part Number: NOR2897333500
Supplier: Eurocarparts

Services Used:
None

Resources used

Potential Oil Filter Clamp (from tegiwa)
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-s2 ... 0wodGcgD-Q

Info on Spark Plugs coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under ... ug-366812/

TSB from Honda: https://www.s2ki.com/public/library/TSB ... /index.htm

Info on Oil Filters coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland- ... 859/page6/

Info on PCV Valve
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under ... ve-367066/

s2000 Oil/Oil Filter Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under ... ge-558203/

Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under ... iy-765375/

Correct oil for your s2000
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland- ... c-1085229/


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Task 52 - Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500
30-03-2019

The brakes on the s2000 are adequate to say the least and could do with some improvements.
At the moment, the brake setup is completely stock, although all brake callipers, brake discs and pads including the fluid were overhauled/replaced last year.
You could spend thousands on brake upgrades but a great upgrade is improving the brake pads.
Wanting abit more bite, I decided to go for a set of upgraded pads.

Having previously used Ferrodo's DS2500 type brake pad on my previously owned 1999 Honda Prelude 2.2 vti, I found them to have excellent bite when working hard and fantastic bite from cold. A great all rounder.
The only downfall was alot more brake dusting compared to OEM pads.

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I managed to pick them up at a great price, again on black Friday (Nov 2018), but waited until now to get them fitted once the weather improved.

Brake pad change on the s2000 is super simple, with DIYguys YouTube video reminding me of the procedure.
The calliper and carrier setup is almost identical to my facelift 2006 Honda Accord ictdi.

Sliders were checked, cleaned and re-greased and all pad shims from the OEM brake pad were re-used on the ds2500 version to help stop any squealing.
Silicone grease used for the sliders and copper grease used for the rear of pads and shims.

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Original OEM pads removed

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DS2500 pads fitted

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The results was a vast improvement over the stock OEM pads, and a highly recommended upgrade.

If additional funds allow, the brake lines would benefit from an upgrade to stainless items to further help in improving the brake feel. If even more funds allow, it would be nice to upgrade the brake discs to Stop-Tech grooved type.



Parts Purchased:
Part: Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pad Set
Part Number: FCP1444H
Supplier: JJC Race and Rally (via ebay)

Services Used:
None

Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replacing Front Brake Pads on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQ9Wy35CWg


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Task 53 - Replace Missing Catalytic Heat Shield Bolt
30-03-2019

A metallic high pitched vibration was found during high speed acceleration, and it was confirmed during last month's MOT session.

The cause of the vibration is the catalytic converter heat shield has a missing fastening bolt.

A quick check on s2ki confirmed the hole size and recommended sized bolt to use to re-fasten the heat shield.

Once the size was confirmed, a quick check on for a suitable nut and bolt was sourced.


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Parts Purchased:
Part: M6 Nut and Bolt (Stainless)
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283194357921

Part: M6 Shake Proof Washer
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221304059508


Services Used:
None

Resources used

s2ki Thread - "Catalytic Converter Heat Shield Bolt Size"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland- ... d-1026049/

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Task 54 - Upgrade to AP2 Valve Retainers/Keepers on Intake
Upgrade Oil jet Bolts and Upgrade Brake Line to Stainless Type
04-05-2019

With the s2000 being an early model and one of the first ones manufactured, there were a number of TSB (technical service bulletins). I believe it only affected s2000's manufactured between 1999 and 2000. Later models already had the changes implemented within their build.

These service bulletins flagged a few issues with the s2000 F20 engine.

The bulletins were the rectification of the valve retainers on the intake side of the engine (Upgrade to AP2 type), and the upgrade of the oil jet bolts from twin port to quad port outlet for better cooling.

Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If mechanically over revved, valve retainers can crack.
(Mechanically over rev is where you drop down into the incorrect gear and you over rev) not to be confused by just revving out the engine and letting it bounce on the limiter)
Results: Cracked retainers and fall into the chamber and destroy the engine.
Solution: Install stronger AP2 type retainers/keepers for intake side only.

Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If car is run at high RPM's for long periods of time, overheating of the lower section of the engine can occur.
Results: Severe engine damage to bottom end.
Solution: Install revised 4 port oil jet bolt for better cooling.

Currently the engine runs smoothly with no issues what so ever. However, with the car being 20 years old and having had several previous owners there has always been a possibility that that the car may have been over revved at some point in its life. For peace of mind, it would make sense to get this work done.

Due to how the cracks appear, they tend to occur on the underside of the retainer so generally very difficult to see on a visual inspection when the rocker cover is off.

It is only recommended to upgrade the retainers of the intake side of the engine. Due to the heavier weight of the AP2 if the exhaust side is also upgraded this can cause valve float.

Rich at performance Autoworks explains "Valve Float" below and the issues surrounding the retainers on the early f20c engine.

“Valve Float occurs when the valve spring can no longer control the valve, which means the valve can still be open when it is off the cam lobe.
This can happen for various reasons such as
-On stock valve trains when over revved,
-If replacement heavier valves and retainers are used with stock valve springs (mostly at higher rpms)
-If high lift cams are installed without uprated valve springs.

The AP2 retainers are heavier than the AP1 items but the stock Intake valve springs can cope with this, the exhaust side springs are softer and with high rpms can allow the valve to float (with AP2 retainers).
As the exhaust side isn’t really an issue on the AP1 it makes sense to only do the intake retainer”

In hindsight, this should have been performed at my first visit to Performance Autoworks where they checked and adjusted all the clearances.

With the above in mind, I also decided to get the oil jet bolt upgrade performed too.
Upon reading many threads online, the oil jet bolt upgrade is not generally 100% required.
You would not expose the engine to a prolonged high rpm use on a normal road unless you did it deliberately.

Honda decided to release this TSB most likely to protect themselves, and for different countries as they would have different driving habits.

If you are running a turbo or super charger then it would be 100% required.
I wanted peace of mind, so this would be a great opportunity to get this work done at the same time as the retainer upgrade. It would also be an opportunity to have a peer around the bottom end of the engine for any noticeable issues.

Once these two jobs are complete, the original f20c flaw's should now be covered.
(with the exception of the infamous TCT "timing chain tensioner") It's still holding up pretty well.
From a visual inspection of it, it seems it is the original tensioner unit.

With the oil jet bolt upgrade, the oil sump would have to be removed so fresh oil would be needed.
Again, in hindsight I should have held back on the oil service last month.
Not to worry, I can now try out Castrol Edge FST 5w40 oil.

I decided that the retainer and oil jet bolt upgrade is to be performed by Performance Autoworks.
There would be no chance of me performing this type of work in an open car park.

Whilst the car is in, Performance Autoworks will also upgrade the brake lines. The original rubber brake lines have definitely seen better days so I thought instead of replacing them why not upgrade them to stainless versions. This would also match well with the Ferrodo DS2500 pad setup currently on the car.

The brake lines I have chosen are the Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit.

An order for the genuine Honda retainers and oil jet bolts were placed.
The Goodridge stainless brake lines were also ordered and arrived within a few days.

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My brother also needed some maintenance work performing on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic coupe.
We dropped that one off first and then mine a week later.

Rich at Performance Autoworks reported no issues, and all jobs went well without a hitch.
He reported that the engine is very healthy, with no debris or any cause for concern after performing a full inspection with the oil sump removed. It was also noticed that the engine runs much more smoother, although it could be due to the Castrol edge oil being used or the fresh valve adjustment that was performed.

The original retainers and oil jet bolts were closely examined after they were removed.

It was confirmed that the oil jet bolts were the original 2 port design.
It was also confirmed that the original retainers had no signs of cracking or defects, and were in overall excellent condition. This was also confirmation that the engine had not had a mechanical over rev within its history.

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Stainless Steel Lines

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As always, Rich did a fantastic job.
A great result.



Parts Purchased:

Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (1 litre)
Part Number: React Brake Fluid
Supplier: Rich at Performance Autoworks Supplied this for me.

Part: Castrol Edge FST 5w/40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Edge 5w40
Supplier: Opie Oils

Part: Genuine Honda AP2 Retainer (x8) & Keeper Upgrade (x16)
Honda Part Number: 14765-PRB-A01 & 14781-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune

Part: Genuine Honda Oil Jet Bolt Upgrade
Part Number: 15290-PCX-000
Supplier: Htune

Part: Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit (in Black)
Part Number: SHD1010-4P
Supplier: Tegiwa

Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Unit 13
Horcott Industrial Estate
Horcott Road
Fairford
Gloucestershire
GL7 4BX
Phone: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
http://www.performance-autoworks.co.uk/contact.php


Resources used

s2ki Thread - "AP2 Retainer Upgrade"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk- ... 1-1191578/

s2ki Thread - "Oil Jet Bolt Info"
https://h-tune.co.uk/club/threads/oil-j ... 12746/live



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Task 55 - Upgrade Front Roof Latches to Hardtop Version
12-05-2019

The existing front roof latches are the original for the soft top, and therefore they are pretty worn out.

Since the hardtop roof had been fitted, the roof has a tendency to rattle quite abit whilst driving over rough or bumpy roads. Honda offered the hard top version of the latch which is slightly thicker and provides a more tighter clamp thus eliminating the hardtop rattle.

Here are photos showing soft top latch vs the hard top latch


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Many members just perform the washer mod, basically a couple of washers to lift the latch further away from the roof line to provide a tighter clamping force. The issue here is that it can cause some distortion due to the rigidity of the hard top roof. The soft top is quite flexible hence why you can get away with it for soft top use.

I preferred to do it properly as the hardtop roof would be semi permanent for now, or until a suitable storage solution can be found for the hardtop itself in the future.

A pair was ordered and they came within good time.

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Installation was super easy. I recently installed the washer mod last year (Task 7) to help eliminate the soft top wind noise. DIY guys provided an excellent easy to follow guide in removing the trim to gain access to these latches.

Installation was a breeze and using the existing screws, reinstallation of all the trim was straight forward with no issues.

New strikers installed

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All trim re-installed

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Whilst performing this task, the hardtop roof seals were all re-greased using shin enstui silicon rubber grease to help reduce rubbing sounds and also keep all seals supple.

Once the latches were installed, the hardtop was clamped in place. There was a noticeable stiffer feeling in clamping giving that sense of greater strength in pulling down the hardtop roof. This was a positive feeling as it was looking very likely this would resolve my hardtop rattling issues.

Finally, no more rattling. There are some very minor noises, as it is a removable roof you will always get some noises due to the fact the roof is not a part of the car. However it is a night and day difference as the rattling noises were super annoying and would drive you mad on a long drive.

All trims were re-installed.
Very happy with a fantastic result.



Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Hard Top Front Roof Latches
Part Number: 86270-S2A-902 (x2 required)
Supplier: Tegiwa


Services Used:
None

Resources used

s2ki Thread - "s2000 soft top roof washer Mod"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU


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Task 56 - Strip Down OEM Head unit and Reflow Connector Terminals
15-05-2019

On a random drive to work, it was noticed that the sound system had a slight issue.
The issue was with the left side speaker, the speaker would slightly crackle with a reduce volume on random occasions. On a previous task, the head unit was just removed and checked. However the issue was not experienced at the time and everything looked in good condition.

This time round, I thought it would be a good time to dive alittle further.

With the head unit so easy to remove, I brought it indoors to have a little diagnosis session.

The head unit came apart nicely, with every part of the assembly well thought out to aid ease of production.
It really was a nice unit to work on.


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With the head unit fully stripped down, I could remove the main PCB from the chassis.

A visual inspection of the main input connector and CD changer terminals was performed, along with the terminals of the main power output MOSFET component. The solder fillets looked generally ok, although it would benefit from a reflow on the main connector.

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I got out my Weller WSD81 soldering station and some flux, and got to work reflowing these 3 main areas.


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After reflowing, all terminals looked good.
Re-assembly was a breeze and the head unit was re-installed back into the car without any issues.

Upon power up, everything worked fine with the issue not being present.
The situation will be monitored to see if it re-occurred but so far so good.

It may be worth checking out the CD changer at a later date to see if any issues are apparent on this assembly.

I know it is probably easier to just buy a modern head unit, but I just love the OEM originality.
With the car not being the daily, a modern head unit is not really required.


Parts Purchased:
None

Services Used:
None

Resources used
None

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Task 57 - Revert Air Filter from K&N Back to OEM
19-05-2019

After a good amount of time using the K&N drop in filter, my conclusion is that it provides very little benefits.

With the original air box modified slightly in task 52 to provide alittle more sound without compromising on power, there was very little or none at all differences between the two filters.

The K&N filter does increase bhp by 1 or2 horse power, but has to sacrifice some filtration.
To be fair, 1 or 2 horse power would be very hard to feel, especially with there being so many factors and variations in driving conditions, air temperatures and state of the car.

There also has been reports of K&N filters damaging MAP sensors, although I am unable to confirm if this is true.

The only real benefit of having the K&N filter is that it is washable and re-usable. However seeing that the s2000 is not a daily and only used sparingly, the OEM paper filter would not need to be changed as often.
Even if the car was used as a daily, I would be quite concerned about letting in more debris everyday on your commute for the sake of negligible increase in response.

To this degree, I have decided that the original Honda OEM filter will be re-installed.

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Parts Purchased:
None

Services Used:
None

Resources used
None



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Task 58 – Novice Track Day Preparation
01-06-2019

Earlier in the year, me and brother decided that it was time to get the cars out on a track day.

Not wanting the track day to be too aggressive, we both decided to do a novice evening.

The track I have always wanted to do was Brands Hatch, together with the s2000 it would be a personal bucket list moment.
Together with this, my s2000 is 20 years old this year. What an event to celebrate its 20th birthday.

The track day was booked for the 5th June 2019.

All the tasks leading up to the track day help prepare the car, and cover all the basics to ensure the car stayed reliable on the day.

Final checks were done which included

-Torque on all Spark plugs
-All fluid checks
-Brake fluid moisture content check (less than 1%) – Pass
(using a Laser 4875 brake fluid tester)
-Engine visual inspection (no leaks or loose clips or connectors)
-All wheels removed, visual inspection performed
-All body works secured
-Exhaust items secured, no loose bolts
-Wheel bolts torqued up
-Tyre pressures checked
-Front tow hook check and fitted
-All tools/equipment and trolley jack loaded in boot
-Car cleaned


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Parts Purchased:
None

Services Used:
None

Resources used
None


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Task 59 – Novice Track Day Evening @ Brand Hatch
05-06-2019

The day finally arrived.
With all the works performed on the s2000, it was ready for some fun.

In attendance was:
-Myself in my 1999 Honda s2000
-My brother in his B16a powered 1994 Honda Civic Coupe
-An old friend in his 2013 BMW M135i
-Another old friend tagging along as a passenger in my s2000.

Due to the nature of these events and the value of the s2000, I decided on getting track day insurance.
From sky insurance it was a reasonable £97 cover for the day.
Incidents on track day events are usually quite rare, but it is great peace of mind just in case anything were to happen.

Great website, purchase online and receive your certificate in minutes
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-da ... nce//quote


Absolutely epic day, fun was had by all and I did not want it to end.
Naturally we all felt slightly nervous at the beginning, but we all gained confidence in our cars as the evening went on.

The Honda s2000 performed flawlessly throughout all 4 sessions.
What a machine the s2000 is, Honda was on top of their game back in 1999 when they designed this car.

The chassis inspired confidence on every turn, coupled with its lovely gearbox, rev match on the down shift was a joy to execute when I could.
That f20 engine never missed a beat and revved flawlessly to 9k rpm every time I asked it too. What an engine, what a machine!

The s2000 stayed flat around the corners and flex of the whole car was barely noticeable. Just goes to show that x-bone frame was a master piece of design and engineering.

I was amazed at the capability of such a standard stock OEM car on road tyres (with the exception of slightly upgraded pads and stainless brake lines)

The brake performance was fantastic, no fade was felt and bite was excellent. It does goes to show all you need is good brake fluid (Castrol React Performance) and better than OEM pads (in this case ds2500 pads).

There were some lovely cars on track, most of which were alot faster than the s2000. Some were also alot slower consisting of a standard mini cooper and even a standard tdci Mondeo.
I think the closest competition I had was with a 2003 Porsche Boxster. His car seemed quite serious as it had a roll cage, but the s2000 kept up with it even around the corners despite the s2000 being stock.

The s2000 just felt at home on circuit, I am really glad I managed to take my s2000 on track as it was intended for.

I know track days aren’t for everyone. The pitfalls and expensive drama’s that can result in such event, but I would highly recommend it to anyone to fully feel the capability of the s2000.

Thanks to Matt Clay for taking the photos on the first session whilst we were queuing in the pit lane and out on track.

What an incredible day.



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Parts Purchased:
None

Services Used:
MSV Track Days
https://www.msvtrackdays.com/car

Track Day Insurance
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-da ... nce//quote


Resources used
None

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This brings the car up to date.

There is a small remaining to-do list

To-do List
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)

Long Term To-Do
-Rectify lower arch rust issues
-Respray bonnet and boot lid due to paint surface defects
-Maybe colour code headlight washers and rear bumper lower lip section

Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels


Thanks for reading guys
09-06-19

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sol-lude
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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by sol-lude » Thu Jun 13, 2019 11:37 am

excellent work I love watching the updates on the S2000 wish I could afford one.

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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by toadster » Thu Jun 13, 2019 10:03 pm

Lo :D
Fabulous work Matey :D
Your write-ups are absolutely epic 8)
Cheers for posting ;)
Toadster
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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by prelude_h22 » Thu Jun 13, 2019 11:38 pm

Thanks SOL-lude

Yeah - they arent cheap hence why it took so long to buy one.
With all this hybrid and electric car malarkey, really glad I plucked the courage to buy one in the end before the car era we all know and love disappears.

Thanks toadster
Glad you enjoyed reading the latest update :)
I do try my hardest to make them as detailed as possible. LOL.

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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by prelude_h22 » Wed Nov 13, 2019 9:06 pm

Hi Guys,

Another little update on the s2000 before the year is out.
Hope you enjoy reading.
13-11-19

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Task 58 - Front Seat Removal and Carpet Scrub
22-06-2019

An opportunity came to really do a deep clean of the interior, I decided that it would be great to try and remove the seats so I can vacuum and scrub the entire carpet area and see what lurks beneath.
Especially with the water ingress issue I had earlier last year. It would be an opportunity to freshen and clean the carpets and check for any water damage.

A warm sunny weekend I decided to get cracking.

I first checked the seat bolts and they all looked in good condition with no evidence of it having been removed before. The bolts were pretty tight and came loose with a bit of effort. These bolts can occasionally rust as the bolts go directly through the chassis floor. A couple of the bolts did show some signs of rust but they will be brushed cleaned and copper grease when re-installed.

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The seats were alittle tricky to remove. I can't remove the hardtop being on my own and the doors don't open as wide as a normal car, so I had to manoeuvre the seat carefully out. The easiest way was to angle the seat sideways inwards toward the interior of the car and lift the base out of the car first being careful not to scratch the door card in the process.

They came out relatively easily without too much effort.

Once out, the carpets were surprisingly in ok condition.
The vacuuming began, followed by a good scrubbing with autoglym interior shampoo.

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The carpets came out much fresher with the red colour becoming alittle more deeper.
If I had a garage, it would be ideal to actually shampoo the carpets for much fresher clean, however being in a car park with limited time available this was the best I could do.
Thankfully there was no water damage and everything all seemed in good condition.

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Once complete, the seats were given a good detailed clean using a brush and some soapy water. The brush was used to clean the crevices of the seats and the seat belt locks.

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Once complete, both seats were re-installed with all areas of the cabin cleaned to a good standard.


Parts Purchased:
Part: Autoglym Interior Shampoo
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Halfords

Services Used:
None

Resources used
None

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Task 59 - Wales Road Trip
13-07-2019


An opportunity arose for a one day road trip with a few friends from work to head to Wales.
Wales has some of the best driving roads in the UK.

A well known road in Wales is the A4069 Black Mountain Pass (also known as Top gear Road).
Top gear uses this road regularly to review their cars, and it is very popular with motorcyclists.

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A truly incredible drive, we also drove on various other roads including the B4560, A470, A4059, A4067 and my favourite A4069.
The s2000 was such a joy to drive on all the roads, I could have driven on their roads all day.

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My friends Vx220 performed fantastic and was really at home on the roads in Wales.

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What an amazing day, epic roads and epic scenery. Shame it was only a day due to everyone's busy schedules.

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We definitely needed a weekend of it, with perhaps exploring the northern parts for Wales too.
Highly recommended if you ever get a chance to visit Wales.


Parts Purchased:
None

Services Used:
None

Resources used
Top Gear Road - Wales Road Trip Article
https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wale ... r-12501083


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Task 60 - Paint Refresh Brake Disc Hub Edges and Callipers
24-08-2019

After approximately a year and half of having the brakes overhauled, they started to look abit tired in terms of aesthetics. Being genuine standard Honda discs, they lack the corrosion protection on the hub and disc edges that the aftermarket discs like Stop-tech offer.

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A quick coat of hammerite smooth black was painted on the disc edges and hub section, including a quick coat of silver for the calliper itself.

Overall a quick refresh which have improved and smarten up the overall visual appearance.

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Parts Purchased:
Part: Smooth Hammerite Smooth Black Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Halfords

Part: Smooth Hammerite Silver Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Halfords

Services Used:
None

Resources used
None

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Task 61 - Fabricate a Cup Holder (Pre-Facelift Only)
28-08-2019

One of the s2000's cabin issues is the lack of a decent cup holder, granted the s2000 wasn't designed for grand touring or very long distance drives but it would be handy to have a cup holder at arm's length for those road trips or freaking insane drives.

The existing cup holder in the s2000 is very poorly designed, when a bottle is placed there it just gets in the way when shifting gears and it is pretty much hopeless. Most s2000 owners just use this cup holder for loose change, receipts or keys.

Bob modifry designs some useful add on's for the s2000, and he has fabricated a bracket for a cup holder to be mounted on the passenger side. However he has only made this bracket for a certain variant of the s2000 and not suitable for any UK s2000.

There are many threads on s2ki for ideas and solutions for a cup holder, but nothing really stood out for me.

I did like the idea of modifry's version, so I tried looking into seeing if there was a bracket that is available which could be modified perhaps.

After stumbling across a phone bracket manufactured by a well known company called Brodit, their bracket was designed to grab hold and clip to the side tunnel of the centre console. Unfortunately this bracket clips to the driver's side.
What I wanted is for it to clip on to the passenger side.
However, what I had noticed is that the width distance on both sides in relation to the centre plastic console is different.

Amazon had the bracket on a lighting flash deal, so I took a punt and purchased it to see if it could be modified.

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Firstly I cut it and attempted to extend it using its own top plate mount so it wraps around on the passenger side, this gap section was wider than the driver side.

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I quickly mocked it up in the car and marked where holes were to be drilled on the bracket itself.

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Amazingly it all worked out ok, and when fully finished it securely clipped in place really well and was very sturdy.

Four M3 machine screws of suitable length and some nyloc nuts and M3 washers were used to extend the bracket with its top plate.

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Any fold out cup holder can be chosen, but I decided to splash alittle and purchase Bob Modifry's cup holder.
Alittle pricey as you may agree with shipping to the UK, but what an amazing cup holder.
Superbly made and the folding mechanism is awesome.

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Using it's panvision interface connection plate, the cup holder can be clipped and unclipped when not in used.
With exception to the Brodit modified bracket itself. No other modifications were performed to the interior, so it all can be removed without a trace.

An easy four bolt attachment to the cup holder itself, holes were drilled on the side of the Brodit modified bracket.
Cup holder and its interface was attached and all was complete.

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You could say it is pretty overkill for a cup holder, it does compromise the passenger so it would only work on solo drives, of if the passenger didn't mind reduced side leg space. However, it works really well and provides a suitable placement for a drink at arm's length without affecting the drivability of the car. Completely removable and can be stored away when not in use too.

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Quick Youtube Vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aykUtP4rsg4


A fantastic result.
It proved to be super handy on our road trip later on.

Parts Purchased:
Part: Brodit Bracket for s2000
Part Number: Brodit Part 832902
Supplier: Amazon
(also available on ebay too)

Part: Cup Holder from Modifry
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Bob Modifry
Web Link: https://modifry.com/index.php?route=pro ... duct_id=94

Part: Smooth Panvision Interface Plate for Cup holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Bob Modifry
Web Link: https://modifry.com/index.php?route=pro ... uct_id=198


Services Used:
None

Resources used
Modifry Website
https://modifry/com


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Task 62 - s2000 Shifter Bushes Rebuild
07-09-2019


An opportunity arose due to a flash 10% discount day over one weekend over the summer holidays at Tegiwa, so I decided to grab the components for the s2000 shifter rebuild.
This has been on the to-do list for quite some time so I was glad the time came to get it done.

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The s2000 shifter consists of a couple of plastic bushes and a spring, overtime the grease lubricating these components can dry out causing difficulty in shifting the gears or a just a lack of smoothness.
With my s2000 being 20 years old, it still shifted well but in my mind it would definitely benefit from an overhaul.

In hindsight, the shifter bushes were in pretty good condition, and I could have gotten away with just a good clean and regrease. However the new genuine OEM Honda parts didn't cost very much, so it was worth replacing whilst everything was out.

This task has been recommended to all s2000 owners to perform, purely because the difference should be night and day, the components are cheap and the job is pretty easy to do. Even if it just a regrease.

The process was pretty simple and the only difficulty I came across was removing the larger top bush from the shifter. This was quite tricky to remove without scratching the nicely machine metal ball shifter surface.

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I carefully cut away the side prongs of the bush and eventually with enough force I was able to pop it off.
If you did scratch the machined surface of the shifter (where the bush sits around) then it would be a good idea to sand down the scratches to eliminate any raised imperfections. This will affect smoothness and would accelerate any wear to the plastic bush.

The recommended grease to use is "Honda Urea High Temp" grease, not cheap but very good stuff.
Thanks to my brother for lending me the tub having some left over from his drive shaft replacement install.
Naturally you can use any grease you want or are comfortable with.

Things to note
-There is a specific orientation for install on the larger plastic bush.
(Don't get this wrong as it would be nightmare to remove this bush if you did)
(Take pictures as you remove it for the first time if you feel you need a reference)
-Coat with as much grease as possible.
-Ensure all old grease is cleaned up prior to re-installation
-There are plenty videos on YouTube which details the procedure
-Clean the gearbox section well.
-Check to see if the outer insulation seal is present, from the gearbox to the upper chassis.
-Take your time and do not rush it, it is a simple job but you can easily make a mistake
-Have plenty of rags as it can be pretty messy with the old grease
-Take care not to get grease on your interior sections

I have to say though, after the installation was complete, engine started and gearbox warmed the shifting feel dramatically improved.

Amazing feeling when shifting gears now, and I thought it was good prior to the overhaul.
Highly recommended.


Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Top Shifter Bush (Large)
Part Number: 54110-S2A-003
Supplier: Tegiwa

Part: Genuine Honda Lower Shifter Pivot Bush (Small)
Part Number: 54111-S2A-003
Supplier: Tegiwa

Part: Genuine Honda Shifter Spring
Part Number: 54117-S2A-003
Supplier: Tegiwa

Part: Genuine Honda "Super High temp Urea Grease"
Part Number: 087989002
Supplier: Left Over from brother
(Tegiwa or Coxmotorparts should have these in stock for immediate dispatch)

Services Used:
None

Resources used
YouTube Video
"s2000 Shifter Overhaul and Rebuild"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9DY_vidZaQ


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Task 63 - Nurburgring Road Trip
14-09-2019

For as long as I can remember it had always been one of my bucket list to visit Germany, and drive its famous Nurburgring race track with the car I had always wanted "A Honda s2000"

Over the years, I always worried about risks surrounding a trip to the Nurburgring, the amount of car crash videos on Youtube pretty much sums up the place. Despite this, I was determined to give the trip a go.

It would also be the ideal time to go now before all this Brexit malarkey.

With the s2000 to hand and in pretty good shape, I floated the idea to a couple of work colleagues, family members and friends. Most of them were unavailable with the exception of a work colleague who was well up for it.

With that confirmed, my colleague booked the hotel and ferry crossing and that was it, we were definitely going.
I prepped and checked the s2000 and covered all basics, and also gave it another oil and filter change.
It was now ready to go.

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The trip there was fabulous with the s2000, soaking up the motorway miles really nicely.


On the ferry

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That fabricated cup holder became amazingly useful :)

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The hardtop definitely helped keep the motorway noise down and comfort levels up, the s2000 ran smooth and cruised nicely at 70 to 80 mph. It wasn't really ideal to go any faster than this, due to the short gear ratios of the s2000 even despite it having a 6th gear.
A cruising speed of 70mph has an rpm of approx 4k, any faster and the fuel consumption will definitely be noticeable. It was also a shame that the UK s2000's never got cruise control compared the American models, it would have helped greatly on the long motorway stretches.

We travelled along the A16 out of France, then on the E40 past Brussels and Gent with a fuel stop at a Shell petrol station in the Netherlands.

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Once fuelled, we decided to take a detour though the Eifel national park.
Amazing roads and scenery through the mountain passes. Highly recommended, although it did add an additional 90 minutes to the overall journey. It was worth it though.

At the Hotel

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The next day we filled up with 102 RON fuel : ) and headed to the Nurburgring. In the morning there were so many modified /performance cars driving past our hotel. It was awesome to watch.

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Once at the ring, it was like a gigantic car show, so many awesome performance and highly tuned and even rare cars.
You literally could just watch the cars all day.

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BMW was definitely the weapon choice for the track (naturally being in Germany) with many choosing the Renault Megane RS.
There were a wide variety cars, and some which you don't seem very often on UK roads anymore.

I managed 4 laps of the track in which were priced at 30 euro's (£26.73 including non sterling credit card fee) per lap. (as of the 15th Sept 2019) The laps are cheaper on weekdays.
They give you a credit /debit style type card and you state how many laps you wish. The credit is then loaded to the card and that is it. You can simply return and add more laps anytime of the day.
You can now drive up to the gate, contactless style tap on the sensor and the barrier will open. Then away you go. It is that easy. Once the lap comes to an end, you can filter off the track or continue on and enter another barrier tap your card again and then continue with your next lap.

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Photo Captures of us on track :)

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I believe it is forbidden for any lap timing to occur, however people do it regardless.
It was just an experience for me and unlike a UK track day the risks are much greater out here.

No UK insurance company will cover you on the track for a reasonable price (I checked and I couldn't find any).
I remember seeing someone get Morris insurance which covered them for approx £500.
You also have to be aware of the costs that will be billed to you if you spill oil, damage any barriers, or get involved in any collision or accident.

Having said the above, drive sensibly and always be aware of your surroundings and the faster cars behind you.
Always keep to the right (as the Nurburgring is classed as a public road) and only over take on the left.
Indicate right if you want faster cars to pass you. Always look out for yellow flashing lights and yellow flags and slow down with your hazard lights which indicates an accident or incident up ahead.

Granted you can't control the behaviour of other road users, but If you keep to the basic rules, you should be able to avoid any drama's.

Despite the above, is it an amazing event and there is no other place quite like it. The buzz and the collection of cars presented on the day were epic. Right down to standard cars, highly tuned performance and super cars.
Car enthusiasts all over Europe and even across the globe flock here, and it was lovely to talk to a few of them about their builds.


Things to note:
-We stayed in Adenau, plenty of places to eat and generally really pleasant.
(we booked through booking.com and was very easy)
-Your car needs to be road legal and have a valid MOT to enter the track
(although no official checks are actually done before entering the track)
-Make sure your car is healthy for the trip
-Always worth doing an oil and filter change for the long trip
-There was no trouble in finding high octane fuel in Germany. All fuel stations offer it.
(with some offering 102 ron)
-On weekend tourist days, it can get very busy at the ring.
-They recommend to go on track on the weekdays (they open daily from 5-7pm)
(However you don't get the atmosphere and buzz on the weekend but if it just
track time you want then it is ideal as it is generally quieter)
-A helmet is not required, but always recommended. Safety First.
-There were no noise limits
-You car is not checked by any officials prior going on track (So it is imperative your car is in good health before entering the ring) Any doubts do not go out on track.
-Enjoy the experience and don't constantly worry about the risks.
-Make sure you bring tools and a trolley jack for any maintenance
-Make sure you have break down cover for the trip. Anything can happen with cars.
(I went with RAC and it was a reasonable £45 for the 3 day trip)


Things to note (s2000 related)
-If you have a year 1999-2000 model s2000, ensure the oil jet bolt upgrade has been completed.
(as you will be keeping the revs high for longer than normal periods)
-Ensure you have good quality tyres and check your tyre pressures before going out on track.
-Check your spark plug torque before the trip and before the trip home
-Always always monitor the oil levels and bring at least 4 litres of oil with you.
(although some s2000's will burn more oil than others)
-Generally it is fine to go on track without a baffled oil sump providing your car is stock and has road tyres.
(You shouldn't be able to generate enough G forces to cause oil starvation especially in a longitudinal mounted engine like the F20c)
(If you have track tyres like AD08R's and modified suspension then it may be worth getting a baffled sump)
-Bring a spare TCT (timing chain tensioner)with you just in case (Unless yours is upgraded)
(You can buy one and return it if it is not used)
If it does go, they are an easy 20mins to change over and will get you home without any catastrophic failures.
-Don't forget to check your towing hook and install it before going out on the ring (I did forget to put mine on)
-Don't forget to check and inflate the spare wheel before the trip

I waited a long time for the opportunity to go to the Nurburgring with always worrying about the risks, but I was glad I took the plunge to experience it : )

That obligatory Nurburgring photo : )

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Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine s2000 TCT (Timing Chain Tensioner)
Honda Part Number: 14510-PCX-005
Supplier: Japserviceparts
(Tegiwa or Coxmotorparts should also have these in stock for immediate dispatch)

Services Used:
None

Resources used
Everything You Need to Know About Going to The Nurburgring
http://nurburgring.org.uk/beginners.php

YouTube Video - Beginners Visit to the Nurburgring
Where to go and what to do
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDCqOZ1upoo


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Task 64 - Reseal Lower Boot Pan Floor & Tighten Petrol Filler Pipe Neck
05-10-2019

With several heavy rainfalls this week, I did my routine water boot check to see if any water is entering the boot.
The s2000 is notorious for this and from previous tasks I have covered all the main common water entry points that occur on the s2000 as they age.

Having owned an s2000 for nearly 2 years, I have to say the bane of ownership has got to be water leaks from an otherwise pretty robust reliable well engineered car. It could be just down to the age, with seals perishing due to being a convertible or probably just bad luck. You could say rust, but s2000's of this age, especially one being 20 years old would have some sort of rust by now unless it was garaged or meticulously maintained by one single owner throughout its life.

I lifted the tool kit to see if any resting water was present, thankfully there was none but the interior trim carpet on the lowest point was alittle damp. I decided to pull everything up as it would be ideal to catch any issues before the winter.

Once all the boot interior trim was out, there was no evidence of any water entering the boot. The boot pan was dry and no evidence of any water resting.
At this point I was quite relieved, but the slight dampness had to be coming from somewhere.
Detailed checks were performed on all areas, including removing the spare wheel to see of any water marks or dampness. All seemed clear.

The rear antenna base mount was checked and confirmed fastened tightly and secured.

Another potential water entry point from previous forum threads is the fuel filler neck. There is a gasket which sandwiches from the inside the boot area onto the inside rear quarter panel fuel filler cap box section. Three nuts hold the neck in place compressing the gasket. Two bolts were very slightly loose which may have let some small amount of water through, these bolts are now tighten up. The gasket looked in good condition with no rips or tears.

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The boot section was left completely empty and with rain forecasted for the next couple weeks, it would be a good test to see if any droplets of water find its way into the boot.

After a month or so had past, the boot remained completely water free so the next stage was to ensure a good permanent rust proof coating on the lower boot pan floor. I originally used Dinitrol rust proof spray back in "Task 49" but I found that the interior trim started to rub it away. I needed something really permanent.

Upon research, POR15 rust proof paint coating seemed recommended by DIYguys (YouTube video on an s2000 boot floor replacement) and leaves a permanent hard top coat layer which would be impossible for the interior trim to rub away. If any water did find its way there it should not penetrate into the metal floor. It sounded perfect. Not cheap stuff though, a 473ml tin is £35.

I purchased the can and once received got to work. I decided upon semi gloss black colour and applied 3 coats of the stuff.
Lovely to apply with no brush strokes, it leaves a nice smooth finish.

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Note: This paint dries quicker in high humidity conditions, pretty strange.
So it usually takes around 1 or 2 hours for it to become ready for the 2nd coat.
I had to spread this over a week so when it does cure, just lightly abrade the surface with 300 grade sand paper and apply the next coat.


Tips:
-Prep is everything, make sure the surface to be painted is degreased and clean
-Stir properly and not just shake the tin
-Pour the right amount into a separate cup and seal the can immediately.
(This stuff will start to go off once exposed to the air, by sealing the tin immediately the remaining contents are unaffected)
-Make sure the lid and groove are squeaky clean, or you will never get the lid off when it cures.
-Always wear gloves, If you get any on your skin and you don`t clean it off, it takes weeks for it to wear off

In hindsight, using black hammerite paint would have done the job just fine I think, and be 3 times cheaper.


Parts Purchased:
Part: POR15 Rust Proof Paint 473ml (Semi Gloss Black)
Part Number: P230BLACK
Supplier: Frost Restoration (via their ebay shop)
https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-black-rus ... int-473ml/

Services Used:
None

Resources used
YouTube Video - DIYguys (s2000 Boot Floor Panel Replacement)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsFjFovAwAE

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Task 65 - Final 2019 End of Year Photo Shoot
10-11-2019


With another year drawing to a close and the winter starting to settle in, we had an opportunity for a final quick little photo shoot after my brother having had some work done on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic Coupe by our favourite Honda specialist "Performance Autoworks"

A lovely little car park staged a nice settings for a some quick photos somewhere in Fairford Gloucestershire.

Both car's have come a long way, and both are running and performing better than ever.

I have definitely enjoyed the s2000 alot this year.
Here's to more adventures with it in 2020.

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Parts Purchased:
None

Services Used:
None

Resources used
None

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This brings the car up to date.

There is a small remaining to-do list.
Lots to keep me busy in 2020.


To-Do's
-Replace Top Bumper Metal Plate Beam due to corrosion
-Replace Two Outer Top Bumper Screws (Previous owner having installed random bolts)
-Wire brush all suspension arms & Dinitrol Spray them
-Dinitrol Spray Rear Belly of Chassis
-Replace Rear Fog Light Assembly with new OEM (due to dodgy previous owner repair)
-Geo Alignment


Long Term
-Completely re-work slight arch rust issues
-Paint Bonnet and Boot lid due to surface paint defects

Thanks for reading guys
13-11-19

User avatar
vanzep
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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by vanzep » Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:07 pm

brilliant update :thumbup:
the looks of the s2000 have grown on me - like it with the hardtop ;)
maybe convince your brother to get a lude - i loved my 93 civic vti 4 door but the prelude just has a better chassis :)
1996-2000 1993 EG9 Blue Civic 1.6 Vti - Traded in against the BB4
2000 on > 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD Manual - Sold 2019
+
2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD&TCS Manual
(LOTM Oct 2016)

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prelude_h22
Posts: 732
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My 1999 Honda s2000 [AP1]

Post by prelude_h22 » Mon Nov 18, 2019 10:04 pm

brilliant update :thumbup:
the looks of the s2000 have grown on me - like it with the hardtop ;)
maybe convince your brother to get a lude - i loved my 93 civic vti 4 door but the prelude just has a better chassis :)
Thanks vanzep :)

I love the s2k with the hardtop and will probably never remove it until I sell it. lol.

Haha, my brother really does have a soft spot for the 4th gen prelude, but he has owned his 1994 civic for over 12 years now, and when it was a bog standard 1.5 LSI. He has fitted all sorts of bracing to the rear chassis, so it is pretty stiff. Although doesnt have the seam welding of an integra.

He now has a 1 year old so keeping his civic is an extremely hard balancing act. Most people get rid of their toys when they start a family, but my brother still has his :)
The way things are going in the car world, hope we can enjoy these vtec machines for as along as possible.

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