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H23 Manual Tensioner Installation
- Merlin
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H23 Manual Tensioner Installation
This writeup replaces the Prelude Power write up as the PP one is in the wrong order, misses info, and has some wrong info. If you wish to see the old one see here http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t725.html
To get access to the timing belts you first need to (if you need info on how to do this see the service manuals http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/wiki/in ... ce_Manuals)
Remove the auxiliary belts (alternator/air con & power steering)
Remove the crank pulley (warning this may be on tight, it is rated at 180 lb/ft)
Refit the crank pulley key into the key way to lock the crank and its pulleys together
Remove the timing belt covers
Set engine to TDC by rotating the crank until the timing marks align
If you have a timing locking kit lock the rear balance shaft and cams (I recommend locking the cam in place as it is very easy to have these a tooth or two out!!!)
Remove the balance belt by taking the nut off the tension carrier and the pivot nut to release the tension and slip the belt off.
Remove the balance belt tensioner pulley to get access to the timing belt auto tensioner.
Remove the auto tensioner - I just undo its bolts and remove the tensioner
Remove the timing belt by sliding the balance belt crank pulley forward to create room for the belt to come off.
Remove the bolts from the tension carrier and remove the carrier and the main tensioner pulley. You have now removed everything you need to and are ready to install the new H23 manual tensioner. Before installing the H23 tensioner put back the top tension carrier bolt as this assists holding the water pump in place.
H23 Tensioner
In the H23 manual kit is the following:
13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)
You will also need a bolt with a 10mm head, the usual Honda bolt of that size.
Install the following parts as show in the above pic. There is only one suggestion I would make, take the 90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE and install first!!! There is not a lot of room to get a socket in there if you install other bits first. When installing 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER use the bolts from the old auto tensioner.
Take the timing belt adjuster pulley (14510-PT0-004) and place it over the adjuster pulley bolt (90016-PT0-000)
Take the balance belt adjuster pulley and slip over the top of the timing belt adjuster pulley, secure in place with the original washer and nut. Use the new pivot arm and bolt in place with the original bolt.
Install the springs for the timing belt adjuster and balance belt. Use a pair of pliers to squash the ends of the balance belt spring, as it can be loose fitting, so to make sure that it does not fall off.
Install the new timing belt and once tensioned use a 10mm bolt to lock the adjuster in place. The H22 timing belt on the H23 tensioner is a tight fit. It is a two man job made easier by one person pushing the belt from behind with a spanner while the other person squeezes the belt over the cam gears.
Install the balance shaft belt and lock the adjuster in place by tightening the tension carrier nut (pictured above).
When the both belts are installed and the adjusters tightened, rotate the crank a few times to check that all timing marks return to their proper positions.
Pic of the whole kit installed:
To get access to the timing belts you first need to (if you need info on how to do this see the service manuals http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/wiki/in ... ce_Manuals)
Remove the auxiliary belts (alternator/air con & power steering)
Remove the crank pulley (warning this may be on tight, it is rated at 180 lb/ft)
Refit the crank pulley key into the key way to lock the crank and its pulleys together
Remove the timing belt covers
Set engine to TDC by rotating the crank until the timing marks align
If you have a timing locking kit lock the rear balance shaft and cams (I recommend locking the cam in place as it is very easy to have these a tooth or two out!!!)
Remove the balance belt by taking the nut off the tension carrier and the pivot nut to release the tension and slip the belt off.
Remove the balance belt tensioner pulley to get access to the timing belt auto tensioner.
Remove the auto tensioner - I just undo its bolts and remove the tensioner
Remove the timing belt by sliding the balance belt crank pulley forward to create room for the belt to come off.
Remove the bolts from the tension carrier and remove the carrier and the main tensioner pulley. You have now removed everything you need to and are ready to install the new H23 manual tensioner. Before installing the H23 tensioner put back the top tension carrier bolt as this assists holding the water pump in place.
H23 Tensioner
In the H23 manual kit is the following:
13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)
You will also need a bolt with a 10mm head, the usual Honda bolt of that size.
Install the following parts as show in the above pic. There is only one suggestion I would make, take the 90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE and install first!!! There is not a lot of room to get a socket in there if you install other bits first. When installing 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER use the bolts from the old auto tensioner.
Take the timing belt adjuster pulley (14510-PT0-004) and place it over the adjuster pulley bolt (90016-PT0-000)
Take the balance belt adjuster pulley and slip over the top of the timing belt adjuster pulley, secure in place with the original washer and nut. Use the new pivot arm and bolt in place with the original bolt.
Install the springs for the timing belt adjuster and balance belt. Use a pair of pliers to squash the ends of the balance belt spring, as it can be loose fitting, so to make sure that it does not fall off.
Install the new timing belt and once tensioned use a 10mm bolt to lock the adjuster in place. The H22 timing belt on the H23 tensioner is a tight fit. It is a two man job made easier by one person pushing the belt from behind with a spanner while the other person squeezes the belt over the cam gears.
Install the balance shaft belt and lock the adjuster in place by tightening the tension carrier nut (pictured above).
When the both belts are installed and the adjusters tightened, rotate the crank a few times to check that all timing marks return to their proper positions.
Pic of the whole kit installed:
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- Drax
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much better than the old one well done Merl!
i can add photos of mine (when i get a chance ) as it has the balance shaft delete kit on it, so its a smidge different.
plus, i think my mate Thom worked out an easier way of putting on the h22 cambelt onto this (when he helped me with Will's h23 kit) as it's VERY tight and normally requires 2 people, again ill try and do an additional write up onto the end of this ... when i get a chance
i can add photos of mine (when i get a chance ) as it has the balance shaft delete kit on it, so its a smidge different.
plus, i think my mate Thom worked out an easier way of putting on the h22 cambelt onto this (when he helped me with Will's h23 kit) as it's VERY tight and normally requires 2 people, again ill try and do an additional write up onto the end of this ... when i get a chance
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- nucleustylzlude
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- NafemanNathan
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Just thought I'd cut and paste this from my experiences as the H22a belt is often too tight with this conversion, but there are mods you can do. Also I came up against some strange issues, which this also covers...
I had the Timing and Balance belt renewed the other week using Gates Belts, along with an H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion, new Water Pump and Balance Shaft Oil Seal Retainer (All genuine Honda parts).
I gave all the parts to a garage to fit as I don't have for this kind of job at the minute, but not all was plain sailing unfortunately. Basically the belt was far too tight and the garage weren't wanting to fit it. I went and had a look and it was rock solid, even before the tensioner was tightened up. So I had to make a few mods to the tensioner.
The only way to give the belt some slack was to elongate the kidney hole in the tensioner, but even then the tensioner arm was fouling on the head of the bolt from the tensioner bracket as it was...
We even had to replace an original Honda bolt with the shallower headed gold bolt seen in these pics as that even fouled on the bearing itself! (See the clearance in this pic and then compare the gold bolt to the other Honda bolt at the bottom of the pic)...
So in short, I had to rush back to work with the bearing and bracket and elongate both slotted holes on the bearing with the die grinder. I didn't get any pictures due to rushing, but the green is basically the mods I made to the slots. The centre of the bearing is hardened steel as well, so it was slow going ...
And I had to remove a bit from the arm (Shown in red), and I had one of the guys machine 4mm off the bracket (Where shown in blue) and countersink the hole to suit an M8 countersnk screw for additional clearance...
I then rushed back to the garage with only 4 minutes before closing time and quickly trial fitted the parts myself...
... And thank god... Plenty of slack
God only knows why there was such an issue. These are all the correct parts, I've bought them all before and supplied them to be fitted in another engine with no issues or complaints. So the only thing I can think off is that although it was supposedly the correct belt (Gates T226 155x24) , this one maybe came up a tad short
I had the Timing and Balance belt renewed the other week using Gates Belts, along with an H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion, new Water Pump and Balance Shaft Oil Seal Retainer (All genuine Honda parts).
I gave all the parts to a garage to fit as I don't have for this kind of job at the minute, but not all was plain sailing unfortunately. Basically the belt was far too tight and the garage weren't wanting to fit it. I went and had a look and it was rock solid, even before the tensioner was tightened up. So I had to make a few mods to the tensioner.
The only way to give the belt some slack was to elongate the kidney hole in the tensioner, but even then the tensioner arm was fouling on the head of the bolt from the tensioner bracket as it was...
We even had to replace an original Honda bolt with the shallower headed gold bolt seen in these pics as that even fouled on the bearing itself! (See the clearance in this pic and then compare the gold bolt to the other Honda bolt at the bottom of the pic)...
So in short, I had to rush back to work with the bearing and bracket and elongate both slotted holes on the bearing with the die grinder. I didn't get any pictures due to rushing, but the green is basically the mods I made to the slots. The centre of the bearing is hardened steel as well, so it was slow going ...
And I had to remove a bit from the arm (Shown in red), and I had one of the guys machine 4mm off the bracket (Where shown in blue) and countersink the hole to suit an M8 countersnk screw for additional clearance...
I then rushed back to the garage with only 4 minutes before closing time and quickly trial fitted the parts myself...
... And thank god... Plenty of slack
God only knows why there was such an issue. These are all the correct parts, I've bought them all before and supplied them to be fitted in another engine with no issues or complaints. So the only thing I can think off is that although it was supposedly the correct belt (Gates T226 155x24) , this one maybe came up a tad short
- vanzep
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that gold head bolt isnt a honda part
you just reuse the bolts from the autotensioner
and did you fit the 11m thick washer behind the tensioner stud - the one with the big nylock patch on it
seems odd that there is clearance issue there
ive heard about the tensioner mod-so good info on that
you just reuse the bolts from the autotensioner
and did you fit the 11m thick washer behind the tensioner stud - the one with the big nylock patch on it
seems odd that there is clearance issue there
ive heard about the tensioner mod-so good info on that
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- NafemanNathan
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NafemanNathan wrote:We even had to replace an original Honda bolt with the shallower headed gold bolt seen in these pics as that even fouled on the bearing itself! (See the clearance in this pic and then compare the gold bolt to the other Honda bolt at the bottom of the pic)...
And yes to all the other stuff. Like I said there were no reasons why there was fouling.
- Merlin
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Nice one Nafe that is some good info.
That was the 3rd conversion we have done: my 5th, Vanzep's BB4 and now this engine. While the belts have been tight they have been fine. Both me an Vanzep have had our conversion kits on for the last 3 years.
Doing this one we did did have the conversation about modding the belt pulley but in the end we couldn't be arsed
That was the 3rd conversion we have done: my 5th, Vanzep's BB4 and now this engine. While the belts have been tight they have been fine. Both me an Vanzep have had our conversion kits on for the last 3 years.
Doing this one we did did have the conversation about modding the belt pulley but in the end we couldn't be arsed
- hondaddict
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Re: H23 Manual Tensioner Installation
Good infos here!
About the belt too tight, i have noticed that the engine makes a different sound since the H23 tensioner was installed.
There's a sound that is similar to a "supercharger", or a bearing that is too much loaded...
This sound was also mentioned on others forums, this noise seems to disapear after a little time but i don't like the idea of having a timing belt too tight
This afternoon i have modified my tensioner and tomorrow i will test the car and i'll see if the sound is normal now...
So, thanks for the sharing!
About the belt too tight, i have noticed that the engine makes a different sound since the H23 tensioner was installed.
There's a sound that is similar to a "supercharger", or a bearing that is too much loaded...
This sound was also mentioned on others forums, this noise seems to disapear after a little time but i don't like the idea of having a timing belt too tight
This afternoon i have modified my tensioner and tomorrow i will test the car and i'll see if the sound is normal now...
So, thanks for the sharing!
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