Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.

>>> Click Here For Profile <<<

Image

A Complete Guide To Fitting 282MM Brakes To 2.0 Ludes

As much of the Lude knowledge we have in one handy place
Post Reply
User avatar
Jackson Bondy
Posts: 289
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2016 8:04 pm
My Generation: 5G
XBOX GamerTag: Jacksb4
Location: Fareham
Has thanked: 5 times
Been thanked: 9 times

A Complete Guide To Fitting 282MM Brakes To 2.0 Ludes

Post by Jackson Bondy » Sat Apr 01, 2017 1:35 pm

Hello! :)

Welcome to what intends to be a relatively complete guide to replacing the front 262mm brake setup on 2.0 cars with a 282mm setup off of the 2.2 (and 2.3 to a lesser extent) Ludes. So why would you want to go about this? Well, despite not being as quick as the larger engine model, the 2.0 is still a quick car but more than that it's still heavy. For some this upgrade will bring a little extra performance, for me it was simply the peace of mind of knowing I could stop all that weight a bit quicker if I needed to.
One last note, I can take very little credit for the information here, it is mainly a pooling of knowledge of various forum members who have been very helpful - you know who you are.

What do I need?
Axle Stands
Jack
Pair of good condition 282mm caliper carriers.
12mm, 14mm and 17mm socket/spanners.
10mm spanner.
Ratchet.
Torque Wrench.
Pair of front 282mm discs for a 4G VTEC (2.2 or 2.3 are the same). MTEC Brake Discs that I used - http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/h ... 03-97.html
Pair of front brake pads for 282mm discs. I went for Brembo as they are suitable for my driving, popular choices amongst forum members are Hawk HP or Ferodo DS2500.
Brake Cleaner.
Copper Grease.
500ml Brake Fluid.

Optional
Breaker Bar - Carriers that have been on for a long time can become rusted on very nicely.
Jack - Cheat method for removing carrier bolts, sling the jack under the ratchet and jack it up until it provides enough force to dislodge the bolt. Kudos to my father for showing me that one.
Brake Hose Clip - Something to stop fluid going everywhere when you remove the banjo bolt, I had mine off for a while so I had a bag taped onto the end of the brake hose to collect the fluid. I wouldn't recommend this at all though.
Hammer.

Method
Firstly lets get the car in the air. Loosen off the wheel nuts and jack the front of the car up - make sure the hand brake is on and the car is in reverse. Fit the axle stands, lower the car onto them and remove the front wheels.
If you need any help with any of this it is all detailed in the service manual.

With the wheels removed you should be greeted by this.
Image
There are three main stages to this part, removing the caliper, removing the carrier and removing the disc.
Before anything else, loosen off the two disc retaining screws that hold the disc onto the hub, they have a tendency to rust on and are a real gentlemans sausage to get off when the disc is allowed to move freely. I had to buy a screw extractor to get mine out - another father to the rescue moment.

With those removed, next we want to loosen off all the bolts on the caliper, they are much easier to loosen now than after the caliper is off the carrier and able to move. The front calipers are nice and easy so only the banjo bolt needs tackling before the two caliper bolts. Firstly attach the clip to the brake line hose if you're using one. The banjo bolt is the one the brake line goes into, it is a 12mm and should look like this: Image
Make sure you don't remove the banjo bolt, just loosen it and then hand tighten it back up, otherwise brake fluid will leak out of it.

Next up are the two bolts that attach the caliper to the carrier. These are two 14mm bolts, they look like this: Image
Easily identifiable by the rubber boot, they sit either side of the caliper itself to attach it to the carrier.
With these loosened it's time to remove the caliper. Grab a container to collect the fluid, remove the banjo bolt and move the brake line away from the caliper. Make sure to retain the two washers that are either side of the brake hose! Then remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on and it should come away from the carrier - it will still contain fluid, just a heads up.
If your brakes have been sat a while like mine then the caliper might not want to come away. If that's the case, grab a hammer and give the caliper a small amount of encouragement here and it should come away.
Image

With that removed you should be left with just the disc and carrier as so:
Image
If the brake pads are still on the discs, a few taps with a hammer should be enough to get them off.

Next up are the two carrier bolts, I found these the hardest to remove as I snapped one breaker bar and had to use the jack method in the end. The carrier bolts are 17mm and should look like this:
Image
With that done remove the carrier, followed by the disc. This will leave just the hub, congratulations, the disassmbly is done!

Next grab some brake cleaner and clean the face of the hub up. Then it's time to put your new 282mm disc on (some people like to put a little copper grease on the hub but personally I don't). As you will see, it doesn't fit: Image
This is becaue the 2.2 has a heatshield that is less raised and so the larger disc doesn't clear it. Luckily for us this is a simple issue to address, simply hold the outside of the heatshield and bend it back. Do this methodically and work your way around the entire outside.
Clean all if the disc surfaces with plenty of brake cleaner, this is to remove a coating that the manufacturer applies to prevent rusting. Place the disc back on and it should clear the heatshield. Personally for peace of mind I tried to get at least around three quarters of a cm clearance between the disc and the heatshield.
Image

With that on, fit the disc retaining screws (this is optional, I just find it easier to hold the disc on) and then get your new carrier bracket. You can attach the pads after but I ended up taking mine back off because it was a pain in the ass. Give the pads a thin coating of copper grease on the back surface and then fit them either side of the carrier.
Before: Image
After: Image

The carrier bracket simply goes where we took the old one off. I found this quite fiddly to do, the best method I found was to hold it in place and rest the screw over the hole and slowly turn it. I had real difficulty getting it to catch when I tried to push it and tighten it.
With both of the bolts in, tighten them to 112.5nm (83lbft). If all is well it should look like this (note the lack of pads for I ended up taking it back off to fit them):
Image
Image
The pads need to be as close to the disc as possible without touching so that the caliper will fit over the whole assembly.

Next up the caliper has to be put on. I'm not sure if there is any difference between the 262mm or 282mm caliper, I can't see any between the two but my old calipers were knackered so I needed some new ones anyway.
Make sure the piston in the caliper is wound all the way back otherwise it won't clear the pads, you can get a dedicated tool for this or just use a C clamp. I don't have any photos of this but it's easy enough to find out how to do online. "Installation is the opposite of removal" as the service manual likes to say, hold the caliper so it's over the pads and disc and line if up with the bracket. Fit the screws loosely at first as I had trouble getting mine to fit well. Once fitted torque to 49nm (36lbft).
Ta da!
Image
All fitted! Only thing left to do is to put the banjo bolt back on and bleed the system.

Take your banjo bolt, make sure there is a washer either side of the brake hose like this (Google had a far better image than me):
Image
Fit in the hole at the back of the caliper so that the brake line rests in the groove here:
Image
TIghten to 34nm (25lbft) and remove the brake hose clamp if you attached it earlier.

Lastly the brakes require bleeding. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of this as it was dark and I needed to get on - sorry! The brake bleed screw is covered by a small, black rubber grommet. It is a 10mm screw that sits on the top of the caliper. I don't have any good photos of it but it's on the top left in this photo:
Image
The brake fluid reservoir is under the bonnet, towards the rear of the engine bay on the drivers side. Don't do what I did and wonder why it's not going down and then realise you've been looking at the clutch reservoir for twenty minutes :roll:. It is the larger of the two.

The best explanation I've seen of how to bleed your brakes is this Youtube video:
[youtube]lPwM2vn3bT0[/youtube]
Keep the reservoir topped up and have patience. It took about 45 minutes of wondering what wasn't working before fluid started coming out - it was working, I'd let my lines run empty so there was a lot of distance to cover. I'd recommend a procedure of holding the valve open for about 5 seconds each time when bleeding from dry as that is what worked best for me. I'd also recommend bleeding the rear brakes as well at the same time as the manual states the order to do it in, but this is optional. The order is front left, front right, rear right, rear left.

With the brakes bled, the pedal should feel firm again when you press down on it. Put the wheels back on and lower the car. Needless to say take the car somewhere quiet, not fast and not in heavy traffic. Assuming you're on new discs and pads you will need to bed them in anyway. After don't forget to double check the wheel nuts are tight.

And that should be it, sorry for the length of this guide but I was never good at being concise! :mrgreen:
Thanks again to everyone who helped and I hope this helps someone else in the future!
Last edited by Jackson Bondy on Sat Apr 01, 2017 2:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'99 BB8 Motegi (H22A8)

User avatar
NafemanNathan
LotM Winner
Posts: 20144
Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 9:37 pm
My Generation: 0G
Location: Yeovil, Somerset
Has thanked: 8 times
Been thanked: 121 times

Post by NafemanNathan » Sat Apr 01, 2017 2:36 pm

Well you certainly deserve some rep for that! :D

Nice job taking the time to do such a thorough write up bud :10:

I'm sure Merlin will happily add this to wiki.

User avatar
Jackson Bondy
Posts: 289
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2016 8:04 pm
My Generation: 5G
XBOX GamerTag: Jacksb4
Location: Fareham
Has thanked: 5 times
Been thanked: 9 times

Post by Jackson Bondy » Sat Apr 01, 2017 2:51 pm

NafemanNathan wrote:Well you certainly deserve some rep for that! :D

Nice job taking the time to do such a thorough write up bud :10:

I'm sure Merlin will happily add this to wiki.
Haha thankyou, it's mainly because I had such a nightmare with the car that if I put it all in one place it might save someone else the torture of going through it all again.
'99 BB8 Motegi (H22A8)

User avatar
Merlin
Moderator
Posts: 12292
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:04 am
My Generation: 5G
PSN GamerTag: Merlinbadman
Location: Edinburgh
Has thanked: 29 times
Been thanked: 190 times

Post by Merlin » Thu Apr 06, 2017 9:48 am

Wikified!!!
Image
BA8......... BB4......... BB8.........The JDM Muscle Bus

User avatar
wurlycorner
Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
Posts: 21205
Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Has thanked: 1929 times
Been thanked: 236 times

Post by wurlycorner » Mon Apr 17, 2017 6:06 pm

Well done for tackling this job and writing it up, good work - especially with the pics. Always helpful for future members.

Couple of thoughts/notes from me;
The old caliper and pads can normally be moved clear by use of a large flat head screw driver, as an alternative to hitting with a hammer (creates less nasty dust)
The rear dust shields can be changed for larger ones off a 282mm car as an alternative to bending them back (and if bending them, tbf, less is more - the smaller gap between backing plate and disc, the less chance there is for crap to get in and contaminate or wedge against the back of the disc)

Post Reply

Return to “Guides / How to's / Tech Section”