Hunting idle

Bri · Post by **Bri** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:23 am

first thing to check is your water level and there is no air lock, second off your FITV fast idle thermo valve, there is a plate on the back, undo the plate and wind the plastic in, will find you the how to on youtube, its a different engine but the same principle, I had a go on a spare one, yet to fit but what this guy says checks out.

I like this guy!

and yes sounds like you have over tightened the alt belt putting too much load on the bearings making it go hot.

Bri · Post by **Bri** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:44 am

same here, still chasing the idle whistle/issues vacuum leak. I will find and fix.

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:09 am

I was going to say check all vac hoses too..

Bri · Post by **Bri** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:44 am

yeah, and that. Fckin idle issues

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:40 pm

Give your IACV a clean with some carb cleaner. FITV helps cold idle and should be inactive when the engine is hot. The IACV assists hot idle. Unplug the electrical connector on the IACV, if the bouncing stops and the revs drop and stay stable, IACV could be the problem.

Mikey I have a spare IACV here if you need to swap over to test.

106pete · Post by **106pete** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:33 pm

I fixed mine by adjusting the tps, although unless you have touched this I don't see why it would suddenly be out?

BMCC · Post by **BMCC** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:03 pm

Could also be related to the alternator as idle control takes info from this as well. I think Merlin's idle probs were cured when he replaced his alternator.

BMCC

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:09 am

If I see you or nick this week I'll drop it off.

You could also try:

Performance Autoworks wrote:Get the car up to operating temperature and idle bouncing
Remove the intake pipe from the throttle body and with engine running stick your finger over the hole that can be seen in the bottom left of the throttle body (before the butterfly)
If this stops the bouncing then your FITV is the culprit - either from being faulty, stuck waxstat or poor coolant flow.

If the bouncing doesn't stop, stick your finger over the hole at top left of TB. If bouncing stops then IACV is the culprit.

If neither of these make a difference then you have an air leak somewhere else.

NB: Sometimes this can be caused simply by poor base idle and air bypass screw adjustment but usually only if the TB has been messed with.

Like this:

[youtube]wwm0-tlsNHk[/youtube]

BMCC wrote:Could also be related to the alternator as idle control takes info from this as well. I think Merlin's idle probs were cured when he replaced his alternator.

BMCC

This too

BMCC · Post by **BMCC** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:42 am

[quote="newkid"]I think the iacv is the culprit as when i unplugged the connector it dropped to the correct idle

This doesn't mean that the IACV is at fault since the ECU is taking parameters from other sensors to control the IACV. It does however mean that you can narrow the cause of the problem.

Bri · Post by **Bri** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:16 pm

Good info on here, Think I will make sticky.