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5g Prelude S2K/EP3/DC5 Steering Wheel Install
- Lude-dude
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5g Prelude S2K/EP3/DC5 Steering Wheel Install
Just a small guide on how to do this, finding a honda steering wheel with airbag for a reasonable price is probably the hard part, but worthwhile mod IMO nice replacement for my orginal which had seen better days..
I have installed the s2k wheel, but applies to the EP3 and DC5 wheels also, aftermarket hubs can also be modified using this method..
start buy disconnecting battery and remove plastic covers on the steering wheel, and unscrew the bolts holding on the airbag, and unplug the yellow connector
gently remove the airbag and you will be left with this:
unplug the horn and cruise control, take off the main bolt holding on the wheel and remove the steering wheel may have to give it bit of a tap but don't tug on to hard otherwise the cable reel might fly off and try to keep everything straight, otherwise you will have to recentre it all..
the 4ws steering sensor is circled above, standard wheels like the s2k don't have this notch so this will have to be filed out using a round file, the other notches are for indicator cancels. use the old steering to compare and try and be exact as you can.
should now fit snug over all the notches make sure you wheel is straight and line up the cable reel holes. bolt on your wheel plug in your horn and put your airbag back in. It must be a single stage airbag (2pin connector) not sure if early models or later had these, or USDM only had dual stage airbags.
done and hopefully your 4ws light will stay out and rear wheels will turn check this before you go for a test drive. feels better than the old wheel its smaller and gives me more leg room feels meater too.
If 4ws light or SRS light do stay on, then appropriate resets will need to be done, although unlikely if you disconnected the battery.
the s2k wheel never had cruise control so I just screwed my old one onto the wheel, and made a hole for the connector. easier than if it had the s2k controls.
I have installed the s2k wheel, but applies to the EP3 and DC5 wheels also, aftermarket hubs can also be modified using this method..
start buy disconnecting battery and remove plastic covers on the steering wheel, and unscrew the bolts holding on the airbag, and unplug the yellow connector
gently remove the airbag and you will be left with this:
unplug the horn and cruise control, take off the main bolt holding on the wheel and remove the steering wheel may have to give it bit of a tap but don't tug on to hard otherwise the cable reel might fly off and try to keep everything straight, otherwise you will have to recentre it all..
the 4ws steering sensor is circled above, standard wheels like the s2k don't have this notch so this will have to be filed out using a round file, the other notches are for indicator cancels. use the old steering to compare and try and be exact as you can.
should now fit snug over all the notches make sure you wheel is straight and line up the cable reel holes. bolt on your wheel plug in your horn and put your airbag back in. It must be a single stage airbag (2pin connector) not sure if early models or later had these, or USDM only had dual stage airbags.
done and hopefully your 4ws light will stay out and rear wheels will turn check this before you go for a test drive. feels better than the old wheel its smaller and gives me more leg room feels meater too.
If 4ws light or SRS light do stay on, then appropriate resets will need to be done, although unlikely if you disconnected the battery.
the s2k wheel never had cruise control so I just screwed my old one onto the wheel, and made a hole for the connector. easier than if it had the s2k controls.
H22a5 UKDM 2.2 VTI 244Bhp 180lbs/ft Crower stage 2
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- RattyMcClelland
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Iv filed out my notch pretty much exactly and put the wheel back on but it feels like the notchs are not fitting in and the wheel wont sit flush. BUT i cannot remember if it this is how its meant to be. Cannot drive it either and see if the indicators cancel or if ATTS works.
From what i can tell the notch doesnt have to be exact. The whole sensor notch moves as a whole so as long as you clear the 4ws/atts notch the indicators will grab it. Am i correct in thiking this?
From what i can tell the notch doesnt have to be exact. The whole sensor notch moves as a whole so as long as you clear the 4ws/atts notch the indicators will grab it. Am i correct in thiking this?
- Lude-dude
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maybe turn the wheel pull it off see if the sensor is turning with it, from what I remember to get it right took a couple of tries
how does it match up with the steering cover? I say if it does not feel flush then its probably not
may need to file a touch more
how does it match up with the steering cover? I say if it does not feel flush then its probably not
may need to file a touch more
H22a5 UKDM 2.2 VTI 244Bhp 180lbs/ft Crower stage 2
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- RattyMcClelland
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Yer it turns. Maybe it just not a mm not deep enough and that makes a big difference. Will file some more. 2 hours of filling so far.Lude-dude wrote:maybe turn the wheel pull it off see if the sensor is turning with it, from what I remember to get it right took a couple of tries
how does it match up with the steering cover? I say if it does not feel flush then its probably not
may need to file a touch more
- Lude-dude
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roughly same depth yes, might take some trial and error
use the old wheel to mark out the notch
use the old wheel to mark out the notch
H22a5 UKDM 2.2 VTI 244Bhp 180lbs/ft Crower stage 2
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... t3211.html
- RattyMcClelland
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Hey guys,
I test fitted my ep3 wheel and drove the car for a while to see if i liked it. Obviously i did
Anyway, as i hadn't filed the notch when i turned the wheel the indicators didn't self cancel and i am guessing this is because the wheel wasn't sitting flush?
My real problem is this:
I removed the wheel so i could now file the notch but when i did i noticed that the lugs that catch the notches are not in the 12oclock/6oclock position. The wheel was dead straight when removed.
So when i mount my wheel, is it gonna be squinty? Or will it be ok and just catch the notches as it turns?
cheers
I test fitted my ep3 wheel and drove the car for a while to see if i liked it. Obviously i did
Anyway, as i hadn't filed the notch when i turned the wheel the indicators didn't self cancel and i am guessing this is because the wheel wasn't sitting flush?
My real problem is this:
I removed the wheel so i could now file the notch but when i did i noticed that the lugs that catch the notches are not in the 12oclock/6oclock position. The wheel was dead straight when removed.
So when i mount my wheel, is it gonna be squinty? Or will it be ok and just catch the notches as it turns?
cheers