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Newkid's JDM bb4, Rear strut fitted p12

Tell us about your old honda preludes that you used to own.
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mart609
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Post by mart609 » Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:52 am

Nice buy. always liked this lude from back when WoL owded on PUK.
Would have bought it myself if i could have afforded it. Glad it's gone somewhere where it will now get looked after.

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Post by vanzep » Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:52 am

8-) very nice lude Michael ;)
I dont mind the type R badges - they are accurate in that youve got type R cams in there :)
Ive been in the passenger seat of this lude and it seems to have a lot of power from low down in the rev range and i guess the dyno graphs confirm that. :twisted:
1996-2000 1993 EG9 Blue Civic 1.6 Vti - Traded in against the BB4
2000-2019 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD

2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2021 ON > 1998 2WS BB6 White Pearl JDM Prelude Si VTEC

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Re: Newkid's JDM bb4

Post by PerformanceAutoworks » Sat Mar 23, 2013 12:12 pm

Not really sure what kind of input you want me to make to this tbh.

First thing I will say is the same as what I always say - There really is very little point in trying to compare dyno charts from different dynos, there are so many variable factors in terms of dyno setup, correction factors, dyno type, gear selection etc etc. All of these things will have an effect of the graph and power figures.
The Millway dyno run was clearly done in 4th gear which will have an effect on how quickly the torque curve looks to climb + will have an overall effect on the actual figures - gears = torque multipliers ;)
Yes 4th gear is closer to 1:1 direct drive which theoretically gives you the least transmission losses (not strictly true but don't want to go to in depth with this) but also it is true that 4th is not actually a 1:1 so 4th does give a multiplication factor which is why most dyno days or simple dyno "power runs" are done with cars running in 4th to get good figures ;) - we don't do this...more in a bit.

The torque curve is not particularly smooth (ignoring the very close spikes which are due to the way the old skool dyno and printer plot and graph) but in general is what you would expect from the engine combination on a generic chipped ecu.

If you look at Alex's and Rob's dyno plots these are from a much more modern state of the art dyno in its own enclosed cell (rather than just a set of rollers dropped into the middle of an open workshop), the way the dyno plots and then prints the curves is less "jerky" but also very accurate.
"Our" two dyno plots are both with the cars run in 5th gear so torque looks to take longer to build...if these were straight power runs in 4th they would look a little different and actually end up showing better figures but that's not how we work.

Why is 5th used?
Well, as I said earlier...4th give a multiplication factor (although minor in some cases) which would show an increased set of numbers, however the dyno sheets you see are final "power runs" at the end of the mapping session. We use 5th gear for the mapping session and calibrate the dyno (speed vs rpm) accordingly, this is because in 5th we are able to accurately put more load through the engine while mapping to get a better and overall much smoother power delivery.
Everyone likes to see/hear about the peak numbers...all well and good but we prefer to work on overall power/torque delivery, smoothness and to increase the total area under the curve for a much better driving experiance.
We could map like this then do a "power run" like a dyno day to get better figures but what's the point? Better to be true to yourself and to your customers with the results and show a better simulation of what the engine is capable of in the real world.

In summary, I would say that the the dyno plot you have is a reasonable representation of what your engine is producing but don't take it as gospel. Bear in mind also that I would imagine that dyno plot is a few years old so may or may not be totally representitive anyway.
If the car feels and drives healthy, be happy with it but also be aware that it could be improved with some good mapping ;)

Rich
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Post by craig_jdm » Sat Mar 23, 2013 5:48 pm

well done mate glad you finally got it fixed :vtec:
I hit the limiter in my h23 vtec still didn't kick in

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Post by vanzep » Sun Mar 24, 2013 2:05 pm

took you long enough to fix this :x

mind u im glad that this was all that was wrong with your lude - jammy git :lol:
1996-2000 1993 EG9 Blue Civic 1.6 Vti - Traded in against the BB4
2000-2019 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD

2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2021 ON > 1998 2WS BB6 White Pearl JDM Prelude Si VTEC

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Post by mart609 » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:59 pm

Same as mine 8-)

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Post by mart609 » Tue Apr 09, 2013 6:24 pm

newkid wrote:
8-) Shockingly loud tho :lol:
you soon get used to it. I constantly drive around with the window open :lol:

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Post by Merlin » Tue Apr 09, 2013 7:48 pm

Has the bouncing idle returned or is it all sorted now?
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BA8......... BB4......... BB8.........The JDM Muscle Bus

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Post by Dbo » Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:28 pm

mine did that a litle but a small tweek to the TPS sorted it ;)
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Post by Merlin » Wed Apr 10, 2013 2:53 pm

Awesome sauce!

In the first pic is the reverse light wiring still connected?
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BA8......... BB4......... BB8.........The JDM Muscle Bus

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