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Dinos BB1 2.2 Si-Vtec (Update P15)

Tell us about your old honda preludes that you used to own.
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Dino
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Dinos BB1 2.2 Si-Vtec (Update P15)

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:25 pm

Well to celebrate my 15th prelude, I went out and bought this car:

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Some of you may recognise it from a previous forum members car.

I picked her up yesterday and fitted some leather seats in her yesterday.

Excuse the dirtiness of the car as the picture was taken on my way home from picking her up and it had been raining and the roads were stinking.

Ive got a few plans for her.

1. Fit ATR inlet manifold,
2. Remap on V-power (as currently 95 ron)
3. Gearbox build on spare boxes I have in garage to fit to car.

Provisionally I'm not planning on stripping the car as she is in such mint condition.

I plan to give the car a full detail inside and out, then I'll post some more pictures up once she is done
Last edited by Dino on Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:13 pm, edited 5 times in total.

Dino
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Detail, Leather Treatment & Bodywork Touch-up

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:28 pm

Just cleaned and conditioned the leathers, cleaned and touched up the red mats(which now look mint again) and just sealed between the arch skins and sills with Bilts Hamber Dynax S50 sealant this weekend.

Just a couple of pics from weekend of interior after cleaning mats, and conditioning the leather,

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i treated the arches as there was a little bubbling starting just under the paint where the spot welds were on the lip of the drivers wheels arch.

So Dremeled it back to bare metal:
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Applied some Kurust:

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Then one I painted it, I sprayed the arch up with hammerite red spray.
(Not got a pic yet as My hands were a little mucky at that point.)

So the arches are now filled with sealant, any suface rust treated and sprayed up, so all I have to do now is apply some Bilts Hamber undersealant to the underside of the car and the inner edge of the rear arches. (All ready to repel any bad weather).

So got up this morning and decided to detailm the car.

Wash with Meguiars shampoo, dry, Meguiars claybar, wash, dry, polish with Autoglym super resin polish, apply Meguiars No7 Glaze and 2 coats of Petes' 53 wax.

All done by hand and I have to say my arms are Fooked. Took me 6 hours straight.

Ive got a few pics, but they dont really do the car justice.

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Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dino
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Initial Dyno & Performance Results

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:29 pm

The other weekend I attended Shakespeare raceway for a little quarter mile action. I only ran the once as I had a pretty much faultless start and all good gear changes. I ran a 14.9 @ 94mph with full interior. I was a little disappointed as I was expecting a low 14 at least.

Anyway, this weekend I attended a rolling road day that I had organised, and the rollers were reading a little high and the car mad 209 flywheel HP.

So it looks like something is amiss.

Here is the graph.

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The wheel figures are low as its a MAHA dyno & I cant be bothered to explain again why it is like this.

So the car is off to Richies (Performance Autoworks ) tonight for a full health check, a remap on Vpower (As currently 95 RON) and fitment of an ATR inlet manifold.

So i'll update progress as this occurrs.
Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dino
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Major engine work.

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:30 pm

Bit of an update from my last post:

When I bought the car I was always a little unhappy with the performance.
A good test for me on a cars performance is to take it on the strip.

A trip to Shakespeare showed this to be true with a 14.9 at 94mph.
The following week I had the car at the dyno where she made 209 Flywheel Bhp at Powerstation Dyno confirming my suspicions. Now the car has always driven smoothly and has never bogged down no misfires or the like and the power/torque curves were relatively smooth on the graph, making me a little dubious of original quoted figures, as this was a fair bit off the mark from this builds potential with no issues arising from the engine/driveability to suggest mechanical or electrical gremlins.

So I booked the car in for a bit of investigative work at Performance Autoworks and to get the car remapped on Shell Vpower instead of the current 95 ron, as I thought this may be a contributing factor to lack of performance, and to fit an ATR Inlet manifold getting it port matched to the Skunk2 68mm Throttlebody at the same time.

After dropping the car off and telling Rich to crack-on, he undertook a leak-down test that showed very healthy results, so no problems there. A quick phone call later and he told me that the cam gears appeared to not be dialled in as they were both set at 0 degrees. The car had had some minor head work, so thought that these possibly could have been dialled in, but gave Rich the go-ahead to dial them in. Main plan was to use Skunk 2 recommended setting then go from there.

Shortly after this call I had a concerned Richie on the phone again asking me to pop by on my way home from work.................... (This didn’t sound good). :?

Arriving at Richies he showed me the car on the ramps and the problems that needed addressing.

-The DTA is meant to be standalone had been piggy packed onto the existing ECU(For reasons unknown) and the wiring looked like a small rats nest with lots of spade connectors.

-Crank Pulley not up to tension as it came far too easily, this in turn had caused a few problems and could have been caused by the toothed trigger sensor wheel that had been welded on to the pulley and appeared to have not been balanced on crank pulley due to lack of evidence of balancing marks. The combination of these two items and someone widening the key way on the pulley had caused the splines on the crank pulley to wear , making it move 5-10dgrees rotationally on crank, also tilting back and forth 5-10mm causing it to hit and damage the ECU trigger sensor and damaging and causing excessive wear on the crank. So the car needed to have another crank and crank pulley fitted.

-Next the Front balancer shaft had worn excessively, rotating approx 5-10 degrees again and the retaining bolt behind the cover was not attached that was later found attached to my magnetic sump plug. This meant the shaft travelled approx 10mm laterally along the shaft. The retaining bolt is not under load and could only have come loose due to not being torque up. I was lucky on this one that the belt handy jumped and completely fooked the whole engine.......So thanks Rich for your Eagle eyes!!!!

Another Crank and crank pulley was sourced and fitted along with a Balancer shaft removal kit from the states as the existing front balance shaft was too badly worn.

I wasn’t happy with fitting another toothed wheel to the end of the crank pulley as it weighs a ton and had caused problems previously (more to do with poor quality work), so we discussed trying to run the trigger off the dizzy, but by the time we would have sorted this (& if it could run reliably at high rpm off the dizzy) and the expense it would be easier to sort the rewiring of the dash and go with a proven Honda Mapping software package, so we ended up opting for a P30 with Hondata S300.

The engine was put back together, the engine re-installed and off for its mapping session ( partially road mapped with the final mapping session on the dyno).
What an event that proved to be.....

Firstly a nearly new Nankang decided to delaminate its self ( I didn’t fit this BTW...LOL) on the roller, so they fitted the rear Toyo on the front and the space saver on the rear. However, this tyre was running very thin on the inner edge and I was planning to replace it when i got the car back. That didn’t happen, the tyre decide to have a blowout at some very high speeds on the dyno, luckily no-one hurt and no damage done. So the PA guys fitted two new Toyos for me. Back to four all round :)

The car went off again yesterday for the final mapping tweaks on the dyno and the graph made some very happy reading [smilie=hate-bravo.gif] ..... However I wont be posting this up as its not on the same dyno I used for the earlier power run. But i have seen cars run on this dyno and the power station one and Flywheel Bhps were very similar.

Hopefully collecting the car soon, but this beastie should be night and day when I get her.....
So a Mahoosive THANK YOU to ‘Performance Autoworks’, to Richie for all the hard work and help with the decision making along the way, Simon for the mapping and to Sam for the abuse and ability to eat cakes like the Cookie Monster [smilie=hate-ok.gif]

Some pics of the damage and build pics coming soon.
Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dino
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New Parts and Initial Weigh-in

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:31 pm

Ive had a good little christmas and with some of the money ive bought a few bits.
- Omp RS bucket seat
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- Omp Side mounts
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- VMS lightweight wheel nuts
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- MFactory 4.64 Final drive
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ive now got all the parts to build my gearbox, so hopefully doing this in March.

Yesterday i popped down to R-motion.co.uk in usk who have a set of corner scales.
Thanks to Mike and Kris for letting me use their facilities.
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I filled the car to the brim with fuel and weighed her as a starting point before i strip her down ready for track days and drag racing next year.
With a full tank of fuel, abs, full interior and sunroof she weighs 1272kg.
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So dry weight should be approx 1215kg
Removed to date are the air con, 4ws, and cruise control.
So hopefully when i have her how i want her she will be close to 1100kg dry weight.
Dry weight power to weight currently 215 bhp/tonne
Full tank power to weight currently 206 bhp/tonne

Target dry power to weight 238 bhp/tonne
Target full tank power to weight 226 bhp/tonne

Time to get stripping
Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Dino
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Gearbox Build and BMC CDA Clean & Re-Oil

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:32 pm

Well another Big thanks to Richie and Performance Autoworks:

I have just got my gearbox back, fully inspected and parts from various boxes put together with the 4.64FD.

Hopefully I'll fit it in the next few weeks.

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I thought I may as well get the BMC cleaned and Oiled as I i dont believe it had been done since it was bought new about 4 -5 years ago and BMC recommend oiling and cleaning every 15000 miles, so was well overdue.

Firstly I purchased the BMC Cleaning and oiling kite and removed filter from the car.

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Cleaning Kit:
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As you can see there were a few things inside restricting the flow of air a little:
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Next was to seperate the BMC into it base components to allow access to the filter:
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I then patted the filter (not on the filter filatment on a hard surface to remove any loose debris and this is what fell out after 10 minutes:
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Next job was to apply the degreaser and leave for temn minutes.
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After 10 minutes, this is what fell out initially:
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Next was to rinse through the filter gently with a non pressurized water source...... (mmmmmmm.....Dirty!!!)
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Then a second rinse (alot clearer now)
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And a third and final rinse (and hardly any dirt came through)
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The filter is then left to air dry (no heat source) for 24 hours and then the BMC Filter Oil was applied using an aerosol applicator.
This was then left for 30 minutes and the filter was patted dry to remove any excess oil.

And this was the final result:
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No need to clean for a while and the filter back to breathing normally and the engine protected from any crap and debris too for a while.
More updates coming soon
Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dino
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New Wheels, Coilovers & New Dyno Result

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:36 pm

Just had these arrive in the post today. :D

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Well a few more parts have arrived this week.
Ive bought a set of 4 Hankook RS2's 215/45 16 to fit the new wheels.
Hopefully getting fitted on sat.

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Ive also been to Performance Autoworks to collect these new bad boys.

Hopefully fitting in next couple of weeks.
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Tomorrow my car is booked in to power station to get her dyno'd as a comparison with my original dyno before the engine work was done.

Well i have just come back from my rolling road day.
When i purchased the car i took it to power station dyno.
She made 209 flywheel horsepower confirming my thoughts that she was way down on power.
To back this up she only ran a 14.9 1/4 mile.

Performance Autoworks took the car and sorted all problems and we fitted a few additional bits.

Ive taken the car back to power station to get a comparative readout to see what gains were had since the work has been sorted.

I have to say, Richie and Simon at P.A have done a bloody good job.

277 fwhp & 188 ftlb. !!!!

Ill admit dyno was a tad high but a version 1, nissan 350z made 284bhp and factory states 276bhp.

This was more of a comparison day to see where the improvements had been made.

Chuffed to beans!!

I'll post up the graph soon when i get digital format and i'll overlau the new and old graphs together.

[youtube]BExSQoi2g2g[/youtube]
Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Dino
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Re: Dinos BB1 2.2 Si-Vtec

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:40 pm

Here are the before and after graphs from Power station.
Please ignore the difference between. The flywheel and wheel powers.
(Its been covered before and due to the dyno type)

i have overlain the two graphs but for some reason isnt showing on my photobucket account.

Will sort soon.

Earlier dyno run:
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Recent dyno run:
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Picture courtesy of Neil (Performance on Track)

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Dino
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Dyno Comparison Before Vs After

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:42 pm

As promised ive got the overlap of the two graphs.
The darker lines are the after & the lighter ones are before work done.

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Ill try sort a torque comparison graph too.

I also had a delivery of my Mfactory transmission plug today.
Will fit when i get the box in this weekend.

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Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Dino
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Gearbox Fitment

Post by Dino » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:43 pm

Well this weekend was spent fitting the gearbox.
Took me two days to fit.
Fortunately i had help from stkprelude (matt) who proved to be a godsend.
Matt stayed over on friday night, & we got up for an early start.
Ibought an engine crane for the job, so our 1st job was to put it together.
This took an hour.
We then got to work on stripping the engine down to get it out.
Our aim for the day was to get it out, remove old box and fit new box and then refit engine.
This didnt happen as every thing that should of come undone really didnt want go. But after alot of struggling.......... Success.

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well ofter alot of faffing about we got it back in on the sunday.

I have to say the box has transformed the car and is an absolute hoot.

So many thanks Matt for your help buddy.
Last edited by Dino on Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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