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Sooo whos got the highest bhp N/A setup!?

No, not in the key of C. An H is likely involved though ...
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RattyMcClelland
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Post by RattyMcClelland » Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:42 pm

No final drive fir me. Some say they are pants on the h22 plus I won't help on my supercharged powerband.
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Post by GOONIESnvrSAYdie » Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:54 pm

RattyMcClelland wrote:No final drive fir me. Some say they are pants on the h22 plus I won't help on my supercharged powerband.
And the shopping list? What did you buy? Save me re-reading every page of your thread :lol:
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Post by RattyMcClelland » Wed Aug 06, 2014 10:08 pm

What shopping list?
Everything is on my 1st page of my thread.
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Post by newkid » Thu Aug 07, 2014 12:01 am

The 3" exhaust only makes a difference if you have done the 3" collector mod on the hytech reps, reckon it would be the same on all the other good mani/downpipes as well

@merlin specs thanks to @vanzep and @bristol_bb4

fujitsubo specs -

Primary runner inner diameter - 44mm (~1.73") at head flange
Primary to Secondary merge inner diameter - 48mm (~1.89")

Secondary runner inner diameter - 48mm (~1.89")
Secondary to Collector merge inner diameter - 60mm (~2.36")

Hytech rep specs:

Primary ID 46mm x OD 48mm

Secondary ID 48mm x OD 51mm

Collector outlet ID 63mm

As for valves, just querying it, are they really an important upgrade? The Jun prelude used stock valves as found here

http://www.junauto.co.jp/democar/prelude/spec.html?en

Jun claim the valves are stainless so didnt need upgraded.

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Post by wurlycorner » Thu Aug 07, 2014 12:29 am

Interesting...

Also interesting that they used standard rods and injectors too!


Question...
Is there any diffetence in the rods between an A/A2/A7/A8/A type-s?

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Post by JEBB4 » Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:38 am

@Merlin on the final drive idea, that is definitely something I would like to do, I know that gear ratios can make a huge difference in general, but does thae 4.64 affect the daily driveability much?
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Post by JEBB4 » Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:55 am

wurlycorner wrote:If I were you, I'd be pleasantly surprised if it's much over the 200bhp mark, however stand alone dyno readings are hugely subjective, so who knows!
They're a great comparator when you do back-back cars on the same dyno (which is why club dyno days are so good), but otherwise the results are very difficult to draw conclusions from really.
I was thinking the same thing, im expecting around 200 if im honest but never know, the engine feels very strong now, might make 210 MAX :lol:
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Post by newkid » Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:16 am

wurlycorner wrote:Interesting...

Also interesting that they used standard rods and injectors too!


Question...
Is there any diffetence in the rods between an A/A2/A7/A8/A type-s?
Id presume there is as the later engines a7/8 etc had the 55mm crank, earlier had 50mm

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Post by NafemanNathan » Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:06 am

newkid wrote:The 3" exhaust only makes a difference if you have done the 3" collector mod
I'm of this opinion as well. When it comes to torque you'd want to retain the narrowest (1) section of pipe for as long as possible.

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Post by Pete257 » Tue May 29, 2018 8:12 pm

Im aware the last post was in 2014. I wanted to show that the h swap is still relevant and alive in the uk.

I have a h2b ef running h22a with skunk tuner 2 cams
Complete stock bottom end running 10.5:1 compression.

Had it on the rollers on Saturday tuned by myself and a good friend who haven't had any tuning experience on a dyno.
Normally we just play around road tuning our cars.

It made a very healthy 264bhp/180 lbft!!

I think it still has more to give but heat soak was becoming a big issue.

Any of you got any thoughts on moving iat sensor so it's not being heated up by the inlet manifold? Was thinking of moving it to intake pipe.


Admin, sorry if there is an upto date thread elsewhere

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