Having had a few rotaries I feel experienced enough to say that the rotary paranoia that most associate with these cars is unfounded. That only really applies to the RX7s as they are turbocharged. The more boost you put through them the shorter the life expectancy. RX8s however are not turbocharged.
The first run of the RX8s (2004s) had an oil dribbler removed from the rotor housing which caused increase wear on the rotor tips. Premixing 2 stroke oil when filling up was advised by Mazda. 2005 and after had the dribbler reintroduced and the introduction of the 100000 km engine warranty.
But like all engines, how it has been treated dictates its condition.
These engines drink oil by design so oil changes every 4-6k miles is a must!
Carbon build up can occur in the rotor housings if the engine isn't revved hard at least once per drive and that can cause excessive tip wear.
Over heating is a killer for these engines. With the oil/water cooling systems that were perfected on the later RX7s this has been a very rare problem for the RX8s.
Ragging them from cold is also a big no no. On the rotary scene you with hear "When it's cold drive it like it's broken. When it's warm drive it like it's stolen!" many many times and it is a truth for them.
These engines HATE Knock! Even if it's mapped for 95 RON always use Super!
RX8s have been known to happily get to 150000 miles. Some even over 200000!
If you are to buy one and are still worried perform a "champaign" test. Take off the coolant filler cap and start the engine from cold and check to see if there are any bubbles in the coolant. If there are it means the water seals need replacing and a full engine rebuild is needed. If the engine is warm when you do this test, the water seals will have expanded and the problem won't be evident until the engine is turned off and you try and start it again. In extreme cases the coolant leaks into the rotor housing and the engine will not start until the plugs are removed and the water drained.
Gav1892 I'd suggest getting a compression test done and pictures of the results. Mazda will usually do one for about £25 and no one can then question the engine. Results at mid 7 Bar on all the rotor faces is what you're looking for. The 3 results need to be roughly even. A result of 7.6, 7.8, 7.5 is most desirable. Where as 8.1, 7.2, 6.1 is not.
5's = rebuild
6's = fine, but don't expect more than 10/20k out of it
7's = good and strong
8's = probably just rebuilt.
I hope this clears some things up.
GLWS
