hmmm rads leaking..

BMCC · Post by **BMCC** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:47 pm

If you are doing this I would also advise leaving the coolant to cool overnight and then check the radiator again. Anytime I have changed the coolant and checked it in the morning the radiator has been low. The coolant will expand and air will also bleed out as it circulating round the engine even after you have bleed out as much air as you can from the bleed bolt (air will get out from the top of the radiator). I would also put the heater slider to hot.

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:49 pm

Oh yeah sorry forgot to mention, when running, run the car with the heater on FULL BLAST HEAT! I'll edit my original post.

grant_day · Post by **grant_day** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:52 pm

No worries, will do. Hmmm hot car drive to work instead of freezing cold fingers on motorcycle .. sounds good to me.

If I keep 2.5 litres spare for a few days I can top it up as and when . Should be enough yeah?

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:29 pm

indigolemon wrote:What Jay said - and if there are any airlocks, you'll find the idle will bounce which is a clue you need to chuck more coolant in!

Quick question.....is this because of the load (or lack of) on the water pump or an ECU dealy?

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:42 pm

Not sure actually, always wondered what myself

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:31 pm

Is it not to do with the fact the IACV and FITV use coolant through them to idle in certain conditions?

BMCC · Post by **BMCC** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:41 pm

The IAC only uses coolant to stop it freezing in certain conditions. It is electrically controlled by the ECU.
The FITV uses coolant to determine its operating conditions. When the coolant is cold the wax in the valve is solid and this opens the valve up and increased the revs, once the coolant gets hot the wax melts and the valve closes. I think the bouncy idle is caused by the FITV and IAC valve fighting one another as the ECU believes the car is up to temp so it will start to trim the IAC valve accordingly, but since the coolant isn't flowing properly the FITV never closes properly so it is always letting in some air. The ECU reacts to this and the idle rolls via the IAC/FITV tussle.

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:48 pm

There you go, I was in the right ballpark. Very nicely explained - makes sense.

JayJay · Post by **JayJay** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:52 pm

Aaah, now it makes sense

Nice one, I thought it caused by those two but I couldn't work out how.

grant_day · Post by **grant_day** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:46 pm

Need more help, new fluids in the rad, its been bled so there's no air bubbles, and its topped up, but.... When left on idle to get to normal temp, the fan doesn't come on, even after a drive to the shops and back the fan doesn't come on. Could it be the engine temperature switch? Or have I missed something so ridiculous I'm going to feel a complete burke?