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Crank Pulley Slow Death

Engine/Gearbox questions and discussion
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NCCMUR
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Post by NCCMUR » Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:55 am

^^^^^
when mine broke i spoke to andy at vtec direct hes got them on the shelf now £185 delivered
as i say this should be good for 100,000+miles so id be right on the phone to andy!!
bristol_bb4 wrote: turn the volume up and get your happy time tissues ready :lol:
Kevin Bridges wrote: How did a didnae!!
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Post by PerformanceAutoworks » Tue Jun 26, 2012 2:58 pm

NCCMUR wrote:^^^^^
when mine broke i spoke to andy at vtec direct hes got them on the shelf now £185 delivered
as i say this should be good for 100,000+miles so id be right on the phone to andy!!
Which is all well and good if hadn't been modified by machining off the PAS part of the pulley - modified part = no comeback.

Chris and I have discussed this at length by PM (like many other things lol ;) )

I believe the reason for this premature "failure" is due to heat build up from the machining process (to remove PAS section) affecting the bonded new and soft rubber.
The H22 crank pulley IS NOT a harmonic damper - the rubber is an isolator - there is a difference.
The rubber isolator's main point of being is to isolate the crankshaft from the loads and vibrations caused by running several components at varying loads at the same time (AC, PAS, Alt) and the need to run the belts at quite a high tension - the AC being the biggest load
With the PAS and AC removed there is 100% absolutely no issue with running a BALANCED solid alluminium item which can also have the PAS section machined off to suit this application.
With AC removed I also have no issues with suggesting or running alluminium pullies even if PAS is retained as belt tension can be reduced. I still ALWAYS recommend balancing the pully before fitting though.

I have run many motors "built" or otherwise in both road trim and race trim with solid ally pullies with no consequence at all.
My one concern is when wanting to run one and retaining the AC as well - I do not recommend this for the reasons mentioned above. Having said that I have installed several at the request of customers with no issues.

I have suggested to Chris
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Post by Dino » Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:00 pm

Speak to vtec direct see what Andy or ben say.
Personally if its a new honda item, that shouldnt happen.
Get an exchange for a new one and see where you go from there.

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Post by PerformanceAutoworks » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:20 pm

As I said...this part has been machined/modified away from OEM so really there is no comeback.

If you bought a set of wheels, machined the backs off them to alter the offset and then one broke would the wheel manufacturer be liable?...... i thinks not :!:
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Post by NCCMUR » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:26 pm

PerformanceAutoworks wrote:As I said...this part has been machined/modified away from OEM so really there is no comeback
:
:oops:

correct
i didnt realise this had been modified :oops:
bristol_bb4 wrote: turn the volume up and get your happy time tissues ready :lol:
Kevin Bridges wrote: How did a didnae!!
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Post by PerformanceAutoworks » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:32 pm

It wasn't clear from the posted pics in fairness to you but that's why I thought I'd step in an explain ;)
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Post by Dino » Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:10 pm

Modified....Doh!!! :facepalm:

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Post by 4thgenphil » Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:03 pm

Dino wrote:Modified....Doh!!! :facepalm:
yeah i didnt catch that either, would explain it!
:thumbdown:

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Post by SiR_Chris » Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:07 pm

that is why I am not taking it back lol

who knows if it was indeed the machining, but it's a good point Rich made and a possible cause for sure
Last edited by SiR_Chris on Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by 4thgenphil » Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:11 pm

i've sent you a PM buddy ;)
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