H22A8 BB8

Post by **Lude-dude** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:15 am

USDM lude would have external coil,

UKDM & JDM ludes its built into the dizzy

so.. does seem abit strange

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:25 pm

Very strange the cap has the 5 points 4 for leads and 1 for coil...

May well be the source.... Double voltages going to the plug probably arching across and pre-igniting the mix

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:39 pm

I would certainly be tempted to put it back to 'standard', maybe borrow items if you can to test, and go from there.

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:24 pm

new plugs, and a valve clearance check have stopped it pinking after 1300ish.

The issue with the rev's dropping.

if i let the car warm up optimal running temp and unplug the IACV then the car dies completely

its bad on intial startup..if i turn things on like heated seats etc etc the car shudders and drop's to 300Rpm for a second.

I have no idea what was done to the original ignition system to imply this one, but this carnt be the culprit

Post by **Merlin** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:33 pm

AdrianH2B wrote:he issue with the rev's dropping.

Can we get the terminology sorted here, do the revs rise and drop back down (like your original post) or do they drop and rise back up to normal?

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:50 pm

I fixed the raising part sorry

but the dropping part is now worse

they start off at 800RPM idle, turn on AC or lights etc etc, revs drop to 2/300RPM and car shudders, it does this also when i give it max throttle from idle and the rev's go back to down but for a second they drop to 2/300RPM and the car shudders then it goes back to idle'ing happy.

I think thats a little better but.

Post by **Merlin** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:54 pm

That sounds like an electrical issue to me. I would be pointing the finger at the MSD ignition system.

Are you able to measure the output of your alternator / other parts of the electrical system?

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:59 pm

on a second though it may well be you know.

Guess ill need a new dizzy? because i fear it may be an arse to trace back the steps the prev owner has done.

Im afraid i carnt atm but the alternator seams ok, i had a dead battery and it charged it enough in 1/2 hours for a good 10 starts today.

Supermarine Blues · Post by **Supermarine Blues** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:31 pm

Mine used to pink like a c unt when accelerating mid-range using the cruise button, unless on 99 Octane.

It stopped after I had the cambelts changed; I believe one had been 'advanced' as some ricers do. The engine was a lot smoother all round afterwards.

That may account for lumpy revviness/unrevviness too.

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 5:07 pm

the belt is a tad loose for my liking

i can turn the top side (between the cam's) about 80 degrees and slip the belt about 3mm about on the cam, i guess this may be the problem also.

I know about the auto tension system, i guess it could be a premature sign of failure ?

or does it not work at all when the engine is off but surely it must keep the belt tight at all times