all the redex drained out of the chambers

Post by **lewd lude lover** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:14 pm

its running 11:1CR dont forget guys.

no smoke on vtec change over littlefeller just on over run. like coming into a junction in second.

coming down from 6-7k in second normally

then back on the go pedal and i get smoke coming out the back. this leads me to believe the engine is sucking oil up through the rings on overrun which then gest burned in the chamber when i re-introduce the spark.

like i say, i beat a well maintained h22a8 on accelleration all weekend so i dont think its gasping but its a shame

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:19 pm

yep sounds like it getting past the rings, there aint really alot you can do apart from rebuild, so you may as well carry on driving it, look on the bright side, you will never have to do another oil change again as it will never be in ther long anough to need replacing

i have had loads of bikes like this and they ran for years

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:29 pm

lewd lude lover wrote:no smoke on vtec change over littlefeller just on over run. like coming into a junction in second.

coming down from 6-7k in second normally

then back on the go pedal and i get smoke coming out the back. this leads me to believe the engine is sucking oil up through the rings on overrun which then gest burned in the chamber when i re-introduce the spark.

Sounds more like valve seals to me mate. Best way to test is find a big long straight hill and start at the top. With a warm engine drive off down the hill and take it to near the redline in 2nd gear. Then come totally off the throttle in gear and engine brake all the way down to 2000RPM. Immediately drop the clutch and floor it for a second. If you get a cloud of smoke out the back it's valve seals.

Worn oil rings usually smoke on high rev WOT when the oil's sloshing up the bores and crank case pressure is high.

Either way like I say if it ain't broke don't fix it, just get some thicker oil in there. I'm sure that'll help a lot.

Post by **lewd lude lover** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:18 pm

im really rather hoping all the valve seals are good to be honest judderod. Rich at PAW rebuilt the head less than 3k ago. i bought the car from him originally but had to store it for a while. i had hoped the issue was down to carbon deposits hardening around the rings but the longer i drive it the more i feel this is not the case.

if i did your test it would be blue smoke out the back. its also blue smoke out the back on WOT so im batting all options

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:23 pm

Hmm. Rich probably knows more than I do about these things

Post by **lewd lude lover** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:50 pm

like i say though it is a little better since the redex passed through

A1ex · Post by **A1ex** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:53 pm

I had mine rebuilt similar to lude-dudes and it still burns a fair but of oil but I'm using 0W-40 and did have an oil pump fail afterwards too. But it's done 8k and burns around 3/4L per 1000 so if you got 70k it isn't going to stand much of a chance on the 0W-30.

I'll be putting some 10W-40 in once I've burn all of the 0W-40 I have

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:43 pm

A new engine shouldn't really burn oil. I'm on 0w40 with forged (loose) pistons, fairly loose bronze valve guides, and blueprint valve stem seals (that are probably made from recycled flip flops). The only oil I get through is what ends up in the oil catch can, plus maybe 1/2L per few thousand miles.

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:48 pm

how old are the bores?

Post by **lewd lude lover** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 8:05 pm