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Oil circulation issues

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:49 pm
by A1ex
Hey folks,

So bad news, my lude is trying to kill itself! Gutted, especially so soon after all the work I had done :(

Anyway, long story short, oil light is on when the car starts up but goes out if the car is allowed to warm up a little and oil then circulates (I didn't do this the garage I took it too did :shock:) The garage don't have an oil pressure gauge so can't advise if it's achieving the correct pressure. I've been speaking with Rich at PAW whose been very helpful and basically it needs a good looking at by someone who knows what they're doing (PAW) before all the money spent on the motor is worn away :cry: and more than likely a new oil pump :(

Bad news is I have no money spare after getting the build done so can't afford PAW yet. Not that they're expensive it's more the buggeration of getting it there and the cost of the parts. There are two very handy mechanics where I work both with lots of experience stripping engines and the like but not with a lude.

They're willing and able to do the work but want to know about timing alignment marks and what (if any) special tool are required for the job like cam locking pins etc which is all a little beyond my knowledge, any help would be much appreciated :)

I also need to source an oil pump from somewhere are all the h22 pumps the same?

Also are there any other things that could be causing the issue? The pressure switch has been changed and this had no effect. I'm going to get a proper pressure gauge installed so can monitor the situation better.

Rich mention it could be a sticking pressure relief valve dumping the oil pressure but this is more thank likely cause by something else, it's also obviously hard to diagnose over a panicky phone call with a vague description of the situation.

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:55 pm
by lewd lude lover
sorry to hear that :(

have you got good pics of the final product of your CF center console? send them to me and i will try and help with the up coming bill :)

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:00 pm
by A1ex
I don't yet, I've got two nearly finished gear trim surrounds which I'll get done on the weekend and get the picks up. Nice one 8-)

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:30 pm
by 2lude
I had an oil issue witch was due to a clogged vtec solinoid filter 3 bolts on the side of the head below the dizzy and an electrical plug.

Mine was caused by a gentleman's sausage who left it on when the head was skimmed so it was full of metal swarf.

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:39 pm
by A1ex
2lude wrote:I had an oil issue witch was due to a clogged vtec solinoid filter 3 bolts on the side of the head below the dizzy and an electrical plug.

Mine was caused by a gentleman's sausage who left it on when the head was skimmed so it was full of metal swarf.
Don't think the solenoid was on when the head got skimmed, but it's a simple one to check so will take a look at that :)

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:46 pm
by mercutio
+1 on the cf console matey also need a few other bits wrapped every little helps :lol:

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:04 pm
by A1ex
Perhaps this will get me to pull my finger out and get the CF bonnet spoiler started properly too :)

Followed by the wings, motegi kit and boot lid :?

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:25 pm
by 2lude
I don't know what work you have had done but if the head has been skimmed defo check that filter as mine run fine for a while and it was only after extended full wot on the motor way my oil light came on and vtec disengaged witch was like hiring a brick wall at the speed I was traveling .

If its got that metal swarf you need to flush the engine ASAP and fit a magnetic sump plug and change the oil again after a few hundred miles and re clean the solonoid filter and kick off with who fitted the head as it should of been blown out with the soloinoid off some mechanics seem scared of it and don't remove it not realising the damage that can be done

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:17 pm
by A1ex
I had a full ATR head rebuild and piston re ring through PAW so I'm doubting this would be the issue. But will check the solenoid filter and see what it throws up.

The oil light with mine is a bit different, was fine on WOT the night before but turned the car on the next day and the light didn't go off after the car fired up. Had the sesor changed but this didn't fix it so it's on to the what next scenario. According to the checks at my local the oil circulates once there is some heat in the engine (dont like it waring up without oil circulating mind) and the oil by the sensor is really dirty where as the oil in the sump is clean but dont know what this could mean if anything.

Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:30 pm
by lewd lude lover
did you take sam some cake?