Lude Generation

after putting on my CDA cone, the lude has hunted pretty high (up to 3k at first until warmer), and even when warm it still hunts. we have checked all vac lines, unplugged and plugged back in all related sensors plus checked that I plugged the one vac line (shown below) that becomes redundant when you upgrade your Cold Air Feed



is there something else to be done after blocking this vac line? as there is a redundant sensor after taking the resonator and its vac line out as seen below


plugged into this box

ive tried plugging the box back in but no difference.

may I need to clean the FITV? as I haven't looked inside as of yet, or maybe adjust it as mentioned in the guide;

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t758.html

trying to remember now... Isn't that to do with the actuator for the resonator, rather than being a sensor? So unplugging should makes no difference, just leave it unplugged.

wurlycorner wrote: trying to remember now... Isn't that to do with the actuator for the resonator, rather than being a sensor? So unplugging should makes no difference, just leave it unplugged.

Yes it is, it's the vacuum solenoid control valve for the dual intake resonator.

ok kool, we can scratch that anyone else taken out their resonator? and what did they do to tidy things up?

otherwise I shall clean & test the FITV tomorrow eve.

Take it out along with the tank. Hide away the connector and follow the vac line all the way back to the Mani. Block it off with a bolt or something. I fitted my CDA and had no issues what so ever.

Thebusofwoe wrote:Take it out along with the tank. Hide away the connector and follow the vac line all the way back to the Mani. Block it off with a bolt or something. I fitted my CDA and had no issues what so ever.

exactly what I did matey just seems a bit convenient that this has started to happen since the changeover

I cant see why it would upset anything tbh. Mine certainly didn't. Does it hunt when hot or cold??

Edit, just read it again Best to check the valve then id imagine

As long as you have blocked off the vaccum line at the T piece as shown in your pic you are fine - i have since tidied it up a bit by removing the T piece altogether. The grey connect you talk about is now redundant but ive never really found a suitable place to fix it to so it just get tucked in
I think you rest the ecu after removing the resonator.
Id check the CDA to make sure no leaks as this would seem to be last thing you changed either that or it just the "way of the lude" two steps forward and then one back

vanzep wrote:As long as you have blocked off the vaccum line at the T piece as shown in your pic you are fine - i have since tidied it up a bit by removing the T piece altogether. The grey connect you talk about is now redundant but ive never really found a suitable place to fix it to so it just get tucked in
I think you rest the ecu after removing the resonator.
Id check the CDA to make sure no leaks as this would seem to be last thing you changed either that or it just the "way of the lude" two steps forward and then one back

i have a p72 & a hondata s300v2 so the first thing we did was check all the programming to see if anything needed adjusting, and all was good compared to the original map before the CDA was put in - very little adjustment needed. we are pretty sure there is no leak in the CDA piping etc but even if there was an air leak anywhere before the throttle body, like the hosing/CDA then it shouldn't affect the idle, it's only the throttle body and after we should need to look at because we know the throttle plate is closing fully.

ive had a thought earlier today (was too busy to check tonight so will get done tomorrow) that i need to check my coolant level as im pretty sure if that was low the it could hunt - plus if it has an air pocket in the coolant then again it would do the same so i need to check.