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Found a B20A1 and Gearbox
Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 4:39 pm
by B00mer
So as per title I have found an engine and gearbox for the 2G.
Looking to swap the slush box out and getting the manual in, talking about this to some friends of mine it was mentioned that they thought it was possible to Vtec it, using the head from a DC2 Integra etc etc
Just wondered what peoples input would be on something along those lines.
Cheers.
Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:29 pm
by wurlycorner
Not sure if that is the case...
They might be getting confused with the B20B non-vtec that is in vehicles like the CR-V. It's possible to fit a vtec head to that, but I think the B20A is a substantially different engine?
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:25 am
by B00mer
Ok Wurly nice one. Bit of food for thought there.
Anyone on here had much experience with the B20A?
Got some time before it lands ill get searching.
Thanks
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 9:15 am
by jjmartin349571
The B series from 2g/3g Preludes and 3g Accords is a different series of engines to the 'modern' B series, according to information from the states there is nothing between them that is interchangeable I'm afraid.
What engine has your car currently got out of interest?
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 6:38 pm
by B00mer
Its got a 1.8 Twin Carb which is the A18A I think.
Searching the net, it appears a lot of links are dead from the years gone by I guess. I'm not necessarily chasing any sort of power but from what I'm reading its not an overly reliable engine. So building something more reliable might be the goal.
Cheers
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 7:09 pm
by jjmartin349571
I have both a B20A1 and B20A2 between my Accord and my Prelude, I've not had reliability issues with either - they're typical honda lumps, starting on the button after years of standing and not needing anything other than routine servicing to keep them running properly

I can't say I've read anything to the contrary online in my research?
If you don't have the ECU and wiring loom it could be a bit of an endeavour to get the B20A1 running in your car bearing in mind that it's currently on carbs and the engine you've bought is fuel injected. There could possibly be differences in mounts, driveshafts etc although I'm not definite on that front I'm afraid.
Out of interest was it the engine from Germany that you bought?
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:57 pm
by B00mer
JJ I got nothing but time really bud, so ill try and get it working (with the help of some friends).
Yeah its from Germany though its not moved yet, waiting for the guys to respond to my courier requirements.
Cheers
EDIT:
Found this bit of info from rjudgey...
right then, if your dead serious don't bother with stock ECU, make your own engine wiring harness and go custom ECU, don't use MSD, go with Electromotive which will have 3D mappable Ignition and Fuel Injection, it also has a twin coil setup and is crank fired, so you'll need to add a crank sensor and trigger disc, this swetup is great for NOS or adding turbo or supercharger, as it can be setup to retard ignition under boost to eliminate detonation.
The next hard decision is to decide wether to mod existing alternator to fit B20A which can be done, Civvy did it originally or transfer whole car wiring loom from SI model and use the SI alternator. A lot of hard work!! Better still use a race alternator and just make up your own wiring but the Carb alternator is tougher than SI ones!!!
You will need all the mounts for B20A from Accord it may fit directly in, but a B20a prelude mounts won't, you need to change the side mount from the old engine onto B20A and the front mount is further forward, but you may be able to make somethign up or move the existing mount further forward so that it fit's, important bit is rear bracket you must get this, also you must get the axles, and if you want to stop better the uprights and brakes are better, if not you existing ones and do the 1st gen Teg brake upgrade which has better pads and bigger discs 260mm. Cause with 180-200bhp you'll need brakes bigger than 235mm!! As far as induction goes, don't bother with stock injection system, get B18 inlet manifold from pierece manifolds or redline manifolds or Jenvey, then get ITB's bodies, you can add Nos or even later Turbo to these, but fo ran NA motor with some mild headwork and cam work, B20A should easily hit 200bhp with a big bore exhuast and descent manifold you should hit 230-250bhp, get a ally flywheel and very strong race clutch 6 puck would do.
You can use SI fuel tank, then just use aftermarket injection fuel lines and get a new pump, also injectors will be cheaper and more available if you go with the ITB's if you uswe the stock manifold your limited. You could also go with Edelbrock intlet manifold but Shady's gone that route and i reckon you'd love the sound of ITB's as loud as webers!! And you'll ultimately have more power as well!! With B20A i reckon if your dead serious about power output 50mm ITB's or if your going to keep it more on a lower level 40-45mm.
EDIT EDIT:
Being told that a 3rd gen ecu and loom would work
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 7:48 pm
by B00mer
German seller isn't responding to me now anyway.
Gonna get my cash back.
Was i wrong in thinking the B20A1 engine was fitted into the 2G?
Thanks for your help guys as always.
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:46 pm
by jjmartin349571
Sorry to hear you're not having much luck with the seller, could it just be that they don't work weekends?
You're not wrong in thinking it was fitted to second gens mate, just there's not many around anymore so sourcing parts to retrofit the engine could be tricky. Even the bonnet needs swapping out as the twin cam engines couldn't quite fit under the stock bonnet - a revised bonnet with a bulge in it on the cam belt side was fitted to GSi models:
With enough time and money it would be doable however

Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:19 am
by wurlycorner
Bonnet bulge = powerrrrzzzz...
