Lude Generation

The serial number on the block is: H22A - 1250525. Which from my research may be a 220ps SiR motor. I bought this car because from my research it's at least 197.

Can anyone confirm one way or the other? The unfortunate thing with this swap is that they only changed the engine, not the gearbox! Still got the council spec EUDM gearbox.

EDIT: can get a picture of the serial # in case anyone wants.

If it's simply H22a and not immediately followed by a number (eg. H22a5) then it's a JDM import with 197bhp, unless it's a Type-S or S-Spec engine which will be 217bhp.

And I think the latter is what he is trying to suss out...

Not sure how you can tell which sp c it is...

Unless...
I seem to recall the service manual lists engine serial number ranges against engine type?

Although on second thought... The 5g manual updates weren't available, so we probably don't have access to the full data there

I found a pretty good listing for Honda engines and gearboxes and I've rehosted it on my google sheets for ease of access:

What I want to do is keep adding to it with horsepower, compression ratios, etc. Have it all in one place.

Based on this listing I think I have an SiR 2WS/4WS motor. 200hp basically. Good to know!

What exactly are the differences between the Type S and SiR motors? Camshafts? Compression ratios? What is it?

wurlycorner wrote:And I think the latter is what he is trying to suss out...

.
Ah I see. I missed the context there

Type-S and S-Spec H22a's (Along with the H22a7 & H22a8) are 11.0:1 CR compared to the standard H22a being 10.6:1. The rest of the performance difference is in more aggressive cams and the map.

The Type-S block also has the additional mounting points for the ATTS gearbox.

So it's possible to grab the extra 20hp with piston, cams and a head? Seems a lot of work for 20hp. If I eventually want to trick this out, will look into other methods. It's plenty fast without.

More so with a decent map

So as far as I know I'd need a chipped ECU / hondata, right? I know this is covered in other threads I can search for so I don't want to turn it into a noob's "how do i horzpower" thread but still.

Yep, the P28 is the most popular for use with Hondata. I think Drax had one for sale. It won't run the IAB's in the standard inlet manifold, but if you're going for more power you'll want to upgrade to a single runners ATR inlet manifold anyway (which also requires a tune).

Or you can get the IAB components installed into the ECU... or find a rarer P72, which already has the IAB components installed from the factory.

Thanks, my Lude is a bit of a munter/post-accident car so I kind of want to put in as little as possible and just keep her ticking along and looking good. Maybe some power mods but like I said I'm happy with the power it has.

Mostly want to get the car handling better/get the 4WS working again!