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H series LSD

Engine/Gearbox questions and discussion
Danisadude
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H series LSD

Post by Danisadude » Fri Apr 26, 2019 7:50 pm

So we are saying a box complete U2Q is a better drop in than putting an LSD into the original M2B? (shorter ratios) The engine will probably be a a2 and be going into a 94 Accord. I know the newer a5/8 etc are very similar but run a different OBD so i will likely stick with the simple swap for my first attempt.
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batkosio
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H series LSD

Post by batkosio » Sat Apr 27, 2019 8:13 am

Danisadude wrote:
Fri Apr 26, 2019 7:50 pm
I know the newer a5/8 etc are very similar but run a different OBD
There are obd2 to obd1 wiring harnesses, which are plug&play, and you can later add a tunable ecu such as p28. I recommend an A8/A7 , mine is A7 with U2Q7 gearbox, I/H/E, p13 ecu and a little tunning, 206 hp at the hubs.
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Merlin
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H series LSD

Post by Merlin » Mon Apr 29, 2019 12:38 pm

IMO there is one question you need to ask yourself when choosing a new gearbox/diff combo, cheapness/ease (time) or performance. Yeah an M2B4 is cheap and easy but it is the worst performing type LSD, TBH when ever I have driven a Lude with an M2B4 I have never noticed the diff. At a higher cost and bigger ball ache is an aftermarket (Torsen) or ATR (also Torsen) diff, you have to by the diff and pay to get it installed, then fit the gearbox back into the car.

Viscous diffs in M2b4's are reactive only, the diff will lock only once one wheel is spinning in excess of the other. Torsen diff's lock sooner and push torque to whatever wheel has the most grip. Plated diffs are not worth it on a road car ;)

The M2P4 and U2Q7 are nice gearboxes and deffo better for town driving, however due to their gearing and final drives, rpm on the motorway is higher.
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Post by vanzep » Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:05 pm

just to chip in - i like the M2B4 as you dont notice it working and the gear ratios are good for all driving conditions ;)
sure the torsen diffs are better - not sure if Merlins track car is torsen or plate type but when i took it out for a drive i crapped myself as i wasnt used to the different feel or the noise
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Post by Scott560 » Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:07 pm

Can deffo tell the difference on track of the LSD in a front wheel drive car. Exit out of a corner is so much stronger... Still need to get my u2q7 checked/refurbed before i go to the trouble of fitting it. Was told it crunched a little going into 5th :(
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Merlin
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Post by Merlin » Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:21 pm

vanzep wrote:
Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:05 pm
not sure if Merlins track car is torsen or plate type
Plate type.
Scott560 wrote:
Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:07 pm
Was told it crunched a little going into 5th :(
That will get worse if you take it on the track. My M2F5 developed a 5th crunch and it gradually got worse. Get the synchro replaced.
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Post by Scott560 » Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:31 pm

Yeah - i had planned to rebuild it - but decided that the cleanliness of my garage and patience for fine tolerance work is lacking.

I'll send it off somewhere for a new syncros and any bearings as required, and slap it on once the chance arises. Clutch will need doing at some point and a drive train vibration which i expect to be drive shafts makes sense to do them all in one go. Might have persuaded myself to buy a pair of quick jack lifts by then.
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