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Auto to manual tensioner, fears and questions.

Engine/Gearbox questions and discussion
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Vtecmec
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Post by Vtecmec » Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:28 pm

I have the full h23 tensioner conversion parts in a box in the garage if interested.

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Post by Andyjess666 » Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:43 pm

Prelude Pete wasnt a cut corner type of guy he always had he's cars done right whatever the cost of that helps mate

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Post by chris_rd92 » Wed Feb 23, 2022 1:25 pm

Andyjess666 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:43 pm
Prelude Pete wasnt a cut corner type of guy he always had he's cars done right whatever the cost of that helps mate
Yes I agree there, the car is in excellent condition for it's age thanks to him.

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Post by chris_rd92 » Wed Feb 23, 2022 1:26 pm

Vtecmec wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:28 pm
I have the full h23 tensioner conversion parts in a box in the garage if interested.
I'll DM you mate!

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Post by chris_rd92 » Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm

After a bit more reading I'm now torn between the OEM auto tensioner and the H23 kit. Does the H23 one self adjust to compensate for belt wear similar to how the OEM one does? That is what has put me off the KS one, as this is my daily I don't want to be pulling the engine bay apart to periodically re-adjust. The modifications needed to the H23 kit have me concerned too. seems that some people have been able to fit it as is while others are drilling and filing for less belt tension. I don't mind making these mods, but I just want to be absolutely sure of what I'm doing before I commit, and while the guide does a great job of explaining order of removing/fitting the parts, it doesn't say much about actual setup. Lots to consider!

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Post by Vtecmec » Wed Mar 02, 2022 3:48 pm

20220226_105607.jpg
This is the h23 manual tensioner set that I have.
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Post by Drax » Thu Mar 03, 2022 9:57 am

chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm
Does the H23 one self adjust to compensate for belt wear similar to how the OEM one does?
No, but belt wear should be so minimum over time that shouldnt matter at all - plus the h23 one is very tight so nothing to worry here :thumbup:
chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm
That is what has put me off the KS one, as this is my daily I don't want to be pulling the engine bay apart to periodically re-adjust.
you should never need to adjust any, whichever you choose
chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm
The modifications needed to the H23 kit have me concerned too. seems that some people have been able to fit it as is while others are drilling and filing for less belt tension. I don't mind making these mods, but I just want to be absolutely sure of what I'm doing before I commit, and while the guide does a great job of explaining order of removing/fitting the parts, it doesn't say much about actual setup. Lots to consider!
as long as you can get a second person for a few mins to help put on the belt at the end, you'll be fine - my wife helped me with the last one, she just had to stand there holding a ratchet so the cams wouldnt move.
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Post by chris_rd92 » Sun Mar 06, 2022 5:39 pm

Drax wrote:
Thu Mar 03, 2022 9:57 am
chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm
Does the H23 one self adjust to compensate for belt wear similar to how the OEM one does?
No, but belt wear should be so minimum over time that shouldnt matter at all - plus the h23 one is very tight so nothing to worry here :thumbup:
chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm
That is what has put me off the KS one, as this is my daily I don't want to be pulling the engine bay apart to periodically re-adjust.
you should never need to adjust any, whichever you choose
chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:58 pm
The modifications needed to the H23 kit have me concerned too. seems that some people have been able to fit it as is while others are drilling and filing for less belt tension. I don't mind making these mods, but I just want to be absolutely sure of what I'm doing before I commit, and while the guide does a great job of explaining order of removing/fitting the parts, it doesn't say much about actual setup. Lots to consider!
as long as you can get a second person for a few mins to help put on the belt at the end, you'll be fine - my wife helped me with the last one, she just had to stand there holding a ratchet so the cams wouldnt move.
Thanks for the help mate, I've decided to go for the H23 conversion :thumbup:

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Post by stinkypaul » Tue Mar 15, 2022 9:44 am

@chris_rd92 I would say if it's been changed by a forum member they will have been aware of the potential issues and will have taken appropriate measures to make sure the tensioner was good.
My experience is that I've had two Honda auto-tensioners fail. I'm just lucky that the belt didn't slip, but it did go very rattly and the belt started to get chewed up by the belt cover.
I didn't bother with the H23 tensioner as it looks like a pain in the arse to source and fit.
Personally i find changing the cam belt and balancer belt a right chore, takes me hours and hours and to do it, and so that I'm happy with it I had to disconnect one of the engine mounts and move the engine up and down on a jack.
Last time I did I used a KS Tuned style tensioner (it was a different brand). It's by far the easiest to fit (if you consider comparing it to resetting the hydraulic tensioner) and it's been on there about 4 years now without issue. Getting the tension right is a bit tricky though.
I don't use a torque gun, I use a thick truck breaker bar and a 2 metre scaffolding pole for the crank pulley. You also need a tool to hold the pulley.

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Post by wurlycorner » Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:26 am

chris_rd92 wrote:
Wed Feb 23, 2022 1:46 am
Are there any full comprehensive guides from start to finish on how to do this tensioner swap? I'm good with mechanical stuff, I just need to be told what to remove and in what order! Lol. Any tips or tricks would be handy too, like the best way to lock the engine to crack loose the crank pulley.
The OEM service manual gives full guides on how to remove/check and replace everything.
It doesn't give a guide to swap from auto to manual, but if you wanted to do the swap you'd just follow the guide to remove the auto tensioner setup (all H22 engines) and then to refit the manual tensioner (H23A engines).

As others have said though and my firm view is don't bother doing manual conversion - especially on a standard engine. It *really* isn't worth it.
There are literally *millions* of miles run under the auto tensioner. It's a wholly reliable set up. The oem manual tensioner IMO is a pain in the arse - it does work with an H22 but was designed for the H23 (which has a different sized water pump, so when used with an H22 the timing belt is pulled very tight and the manual tensioner sits at the far end of its travel).

When using a manual tensioner, you are also meant to re-check the tension as it ages - this is an additional maintenance pain in the arse. You're creating work that doesn't need to be there (and people don't bother to do, which means that you're actually creating risk!).

The auto tensioner can be checked and if ok, re-used (as per the service manual). Given the age of them now though, if it's never been renewed then it's worth renewing them once as a precaution, simply because the rubber components will age and deteriorate. They're still available brand new.

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