Getting cambelt done at the weekend...

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:08 pm

I am taking my car in to get some stuff done this weekend, main thing being the cambelt. I'm providing parts (or at least attempting to) so just paying for labour.

I've got 2 belts that came with the car - one Mitsuba (Link) and one Contitech. I presume the Contitech one is a balance shaft belt or a/c belt or something but I'm not sure. I also have 2 Nipparts tensioners in boxes which I need to check, they looked the same if I recall correctly.

Does anyone have a list of parts I will need, or spot anything I've missed?

I've also ordered 2 cam seals and a water pump to do at the same time. Is there anything else worth doing as well.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Rich

Buzzonion Vtec · Post by **Buzzonion Vtec** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:15 pm

You have the tensioner rollers but you don't have the actual auto tensioner, this is a Honda only part and if you want reliability you most definitely should replace this
Also while at the Honda parts desk get a balance shaft oil seal retainer kit. This is a retro fit item that prevents the oil seal from "walking" itself out of the block.

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:21 pm

Thanks mate, I'll be sure to get those parts (if I can get them in time for Saturday)!

Post by **Doggo** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:57 pm

Rich wrote:Thanks mate, I'll be sure to get those parts (if I can get them in time for Saturday)!

A timely question as I'm heading for the same next week(ish) probably...

Could anyone tell me please if this list would be the same for my '99 5th Gen H22A8?

Incidentally, the guy at the Honda Garage suggested that I shouldn't bother with the water pump or indeed one of the tensioners on the basis that he's been working on them for years and they never go. I'm unconvinced... any thoughts?

Finally, and apologies if this is in the wrong place, does anyone know anything abour Hyndland/Pheonix Honda in Glasgow or know anyone else very good? I'm willing to travel around Scotland if there's a well regarded person around? I'm tempted to go the official route just this time for the cambelt for the 12m guarantee and as I've only just got the car but....

Post by **Doggo** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:58 pm

Oh feck. Thread Hi-jack! Sorry!

Post by **Donald** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:10 am

It's all relevant

From what I've read/been told the auto tensioner is normally the part that fails

Post by **Doggo** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:16 am

Donald wrote:It's all relevant

From what I've read/been told the auto tensioner is normally the part that fails

Cheers. That's the one he's suggested replacing.... Hang on, so you mean I should replace that like for like or look at one of these manual conversions I've seen referenced in passing? *clueless*

Post by **Donald** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:34 am

I am in no way knowledgeable on the subject, just regurgitating info from on here.

IIRC you can use the H23 tensioner or I think Kaizenspeed make a manual tensioner (which I think is just like H23).

I would wait for someone else to clarify this before you take it as correct/spend any money. I think the majority of people will suggest going manual though.

If Rich from PAW happens to read this again I'm sure he'd be happy to help.

h10ndr · Post by **h10ndr** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:53 am

The KS Tuned tensioner is a replacement for the auto-tensioner KSTUNED whereas the H23 Manual Tensioner is a kit of Honda parts required to switch over. Honda Kit

Whichever way you go, its not going to be cheap. They are all in the £90-£120 range, and like Rich says - "for reliability" you need to replace yours as part of the timing belt work.

PerformanceAutoworks · Post by **PerformanceAutoworks** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:19 am

To clear things up a little.

For standard road cars or bolt on mods I usually recommend the standard auto tensioner as it is fit and forget.
They only generally have a problem when they are being asked to do a second timing belt term or the car in question has uprated cams and increased rate valve springs.
I'm not a fan of the KS manual tensioner...it's ok but if you are going manual tensioner I would prefer to use the H23 bits.
If going manual tensioner some of the "kits" being sold out there don't have ALL the bits so be careful
Also manual tensioner conversions will require a tensione check and adjust at 30-36k miles after new belt fitment.
If going manual tensioner