Lude Generation

Does anyone know what cams can be used, that are more aggressvie than the ATR ones, which wouldn't require the OEM pistons (10:1 or 11:1) to be dished?

For pistons up to 11:1 I would go with Skunk2 Pro1+ with Supertech springs and retainers.

What she said^

Ok cool. So if I went with the pro1's and 11:1 pistons, could 260+bhp be acheivable?

The head is already skimmed, have a good intake with ATR inlet mani and good exhaust with decat already. Would also get the crank balance delete done but want to keep power steering and aircon

A1ex wrote:Ok cool. So if I went with the pro1's and 11:1 pistons, could 260+bhp be acheivable?

Look at my car specs, 11:5 Mahle pistons and Pro2+ cams were not enough to achive such numbers. Think about good port&polish of the head, you should be close to 250bhp then.

I'm on 228bhp now with ATR cams and 10:1.
Bennyboy is on 244bhp with ATR cams and 11:1
Dino was on 277bhp with pro 2's and 11.5:1 before he broke the car.

We all use the same tuner, that's why I was thinking 260ish. How do the pro1's compare to the ATR cams?

A1ex wrote:Bennyboy is on 244bhp with ATR cams and 11:1
Dino was on 277bhp with pro 2's and 11.5:1 before he broke the car.

With very good port&polish work that's achievable, that's why I said you should be close to 250BHP. My numbers are on stock H22A5 head (just upgraded valvetrain and cams). Now I'm building new engine with complete port&polish, new valve guides, sealers, etc. and "slightly" changed bottom.

Cam specs:
http://www.preludezone.com/naturally-as ... -list.html
ATR cams = Type-S cams

I think in order for you to get your fix Alex, you need to consider Skunk2 Pro 2's and some proper head work. You forget Bennyboy's had some basic head-work done as well. And Dino had a fully non-stock, mix of OEM and non-OEM engine internals.

I think Pro 1's would only see you to 250bhp max without headwork.

Alex - adding up select parts of other people's builds and trying to compare doesn't work I'm afraid.

As Nafe just said, Bennyboy's is not just A8 with a tune it's a fresh build, some port/combustion chamber work, 3 angle valve job, ATR intake, cam gears (with ATR/A8 cams dialled in), good exhaust and manifold plus good tune with Hondata....obviously all to our specs with our know how

We have built many 270+bhp N/A H22s, have plenty of tricks and methods that we know works, we have tried lots of variations to setups as well not just stick to one build method and that's it. Admittedly we have now settled on a good reliable way to achieve what we want but we are always experimenting in the background....alot of stuff we do doesn't get shouted about

In answer to your original question - Pro1's are ok and could nett you around the 250-255bhp mark but obviously not on your current pistons and low compression.
As a side note to your question - Remember your motor is not standard so asking if certain cams will be ok in terms of valve to piston clearance is not the way to do it...especially when going for the larger lifts/durations that the Pro1,2,3 series offer. I have built H22's where some clearancing work has been required to valve pockets when using Pro1s due to previous head work and a required cam timing setup. Remember, valves may clear with cams zero'd but you need to be sure they will clear with offset overlaps, cams advanced etc.

If you are planning on putting ATR pistons in anyway, why not go straight to the cams that can offer the most (with them)...the Pro2.
ATR/A8 pistons with some of our special touches for clearance and increased swirl promotion work just as well (if not better) than swapping to the Mahles at a fraction of the cost.
Headwork is also important to get the most out of a H22 especially over the 260bhp mark but I'm not going to go into a ton of detail here.

Lastly... if planning to go balance shaft delete, don't forget the motor will need to be pulled and stripped (well a fair chunk of it anyway) to do this job.

The oracle has landed

cheers Rich