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Distributor woes - corroded rotor arm removal

Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 3:32 pm
by h10ndr
What a day I had yesterday, thought I would service my lude as it was 1st nice Saturday since winter.

Before, I started, I thought I would fix the oil leak from my distributor which has developed. So off with the distributor (having marked the timing with a punch) and all I intended to do was replace the o ring with a spare I had ( I have about 4 distributors in pieces), when I decided to fit my new coil I had bought as well. Then save the current coil as a spare as I know it works.

This is where it starts to go wrong.
I removed the cap, and then the screw from the rotor arm (slightly corroded) but I still got it off ok. But the rotor arm would not slide off. It was stuck on. I spent ages trying until it broke to pieces. So now, I need to replace the rotor arm, but the old pieces are well and truely stuck on the shaft!!! :evil:

I eventually decided the only solution was to strip and rebuild the whole distributor and replace the shaft and bearing with a spare I had. This went according to plan, but on refitting the distributor, the car refused to start :evil: :evil: :evil:

Now. I recently read when rebuilding distributors that it is possible to get the drive gear on the shaft 180d out of sync. I have previously used a centre punch to mark all the existing distributors I have in this way so the drive gear cannot be re-assembled 180d off.

The problem was that I hadn't done this on my current distributor, but I used the position of the rotor arm relative to the drive gear on other spares to put this gear on correctly. I hadn't realised that the hole for the rotor arm in the shaft went all the way through, so I had "eyed" up the position 180d wrong after all.

I quickly changed the drive gear around, and the car sparked back into life!! phew!! :D

So, if it helps anyone. If you rotate the rotor arm around so the screw is at 3 o'clock, then the drive gear should be mounted with the line stamped on it pointing from 12 o'clock to 2o'clock. This will make sense if you have to do this to a distributor.

It is a good idea though to stamp the gear and shaft with a centre punch so you can't put it together wrong!! lol

Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 5:48 pm
by Vtecmec
Nice one Tim, glad you got it sorted, you seem to have more dizzy woes than most.

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:15 am
by h10ndr
Can't believe it....jumped in this morning to go to work, and.....nothing....Cranking, but no firing.... :? :?
What the h3ll? It fired up on Sat, no problem. Left it 1 day, and now nothing....

All I can do now, is put back in the original coil back in and see if that gets it going again... I am so unlucky....

Could I have fried the new coil, by trying to start it with the timing 180d out? But why did it run ok on Sat.

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:28 pm
by vanzep
dizzy seem to be very sensitive imo
i had to replace mine after doing a compression test :?
ive kept the old one - dont know if it would be of any use but your welcome to have it if it helps any. Just cover the cost of postage. I did take the covers and rotor arm off and then decided just to put it back together-still might be ok for spare parts.
@newkid has a good working dizzy for sale for a very low price ( i was thinking of buying this myself as a spare)

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:46 pm
by h10ndr
Thanks Vanzep for the offer, but I think :? I've resolved it, again...

I removed the distributor and swapped the coil back to the original, still no joy. So put the new coil back in. Then looked at the rotor arm and cap which I swapped at the same time. I fitted the best condition ones I had, but this could have been the problem, after all, something I did stopped it working!! All looked well with the cap (nearly new), until I noticed the rotor arm had grease inside (from me :facepalm: attempting to stop any corrosion on the shaft to rotor arm) it had gotten in there!! A quick swap to another spare rotor arm, and she fired back up!!! With my new coil fitted this time!!

You have to change one thing at a time to diagnose problems like this. If I had changed several items together and it fired up, I wouldn't have known where the problem was.

So all sorted again.. I did stop and start it a couple of times to make sure this time. :mrgreen:

I think a new cap and rotor arm are on my service items to-do-list...

p.s. I will always try and carry a spare working coil and ignitor in the toolkit - just in case. I have had I think 3 coils now go on me, in 12 years. It's small insurance to get you home without needing a tow.

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:52 pm
by vanzep
good stuff :)

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:53 pm
by h10ndr
I think (I read on a parts supplier website)the Hitachi ignitors are an upgraded part...so try use/get them. I think they have better heat sink on them.