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skunk 2 mani
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:59 am
by spudep91
hi how much do these go for 2nd hand and is it a good upgrade and is it just a matter of bolt on and away u go thanks in advance
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:26 am
by si import
I think you have to get the car mapped afterwards to make the most of it.
I have one with I keep thinking about fitting.
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:39 am
by Froidas
Well, google
As I have noticed, there are some Skunk2 haters out there in the world. Don't know why. And there's always a battle "ATR vs Skunk2", as I have seen in forums. So be aware.
And it is a very difficult question. It depends very much on your engine build. When I was thinking what to buy, I found a dyno chart proved (I pretty sure, it was long ago, I might mix something) thread about an average or heavy built H22 tested with ATR and Skunk2 intakes. What I remember really good - ATR showed lower results. They blamed it's size. I am pretty sure Skunk2 was opened, ported, and welded back... But it's only his case. So I bought Skunk2
I got it cheap (another reason why), for ~120 pounds, used, but looked like new.
If your engine is standard, it might be better to get ATR intake, or it might be the same results as Skunk2, don't know. Either way you'll need to change you ecu and map it on dyno. Maybe anyone here have tested and have dyno chart pictures?
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:03 am
by Merlin
@Froidas on the Skunk where does the IACV bolt on to?
Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:17 am
by Froidas
2 ways:
1. There are 2 plates and 2 hoses included in the SKunk2 mani kit for the IACV (try to google). So it might be placed separately somewhere near manifold. I tried it, but didn't liked it.
2. Put it directly on the manifold, on the rear side of it. On my 4th gen I needed to transform it a little bit for clearance - modify connector. I have tried to put it without transformation, but there was only about 5 mm gap between the IACV connector and firewall.