Just a simple one to get me going for the day!
I read up about it lots but just need to know if I will be able to remove the filter by its self? Or will I need a special tool (wrench?) or something?
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Oil + filter change!
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nitin_s1
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Oil + filter change!
I'm about to do a small service on my own for the first time!
Just a simple one to get me going for the day!
I read up about it lots but just need to know if I will be able to remove the filter by its self? Or will I need a special tool (wrench?) or something?
Just a simple one to get me going for the day!
I read up about it lots but just need to know if I will be able to remove the filter by its self? Or will I need a special tool (wrench?) or something?
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indigolemon
- The Chaos Engine
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You should just be able to grab it and it will unscrew, however sometimes they are pretty tight. I have one of these:
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Which is dead handy if I come across a filter that won't move.
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Which is dead handy if I come across a filter that won't move.
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage
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indigolemon
- The Chaos Engine
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It's almost certain you'll spill a little oil - I use an old shower curtain so none of it gets on the driveway. Besides that, it's pretty straight forward. Good luck man! 
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage
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nitin_s1
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Just found this!
1. Park the car on a level surface (make sure the car doesn't roll forwards/backwards with the handbrake off)
2. Warm the engine up up to normal temperature (fan comes on at least twice). Turn engine off.
3. Drain the engine oil by removing the sump/drain plug. Engine oil WILL be hot so be careful and get ready to catch the oil with a pan or something simila that will hold at least 5L.
4. Replace the sump/drain plug with the new copper washer. Wipe any excess oil off.
5. Remove the old oil filter by using an appropriate oil filter wrench. I found that the oil filter removal tool available from Halfords (metal band with a tightening knob at the bottom) works a treat as there's not much room behind the engine.
6. Inspect the threads and the rubber seals on the new filter if they're ok/same as the old one. Wipe excess oil off the seat on the engine block. Put a light coat of oil on the rubber seal and the threads of the new filter.
7. Replace the new oil filter and tighten it by hand. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN) Wipe any excess oil.
8. Refill with the new engine oil. I found that using exactly 5L of oil brings the oil level nicely up to the MAX (top hole) on the dipstick.
9. This step is optional but I do it anyway. Disconnect the ditributor connectors. Crank the engine a good 3-6 seconds for 2-3 times for the new oil to lubricate the engine. Reconnect the connectors.
10. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.
11. Go drive for a few minutes. Park up and check again for leaks.
1. Park the car on a level surface (make sure the car doesn't roll forwards/backwards with the handbrake off)
2. Warm the engine up up to normal temperature (fan comes on at least twice). Turn engine off.
3. Drain the engine oil by removing the sump/drain plug. Engine oil WILL be hot so be careful and get ready to catch the oil with a pan or something simila that will hold at least 5L.
4. Replace the sump/drain plug with the new copper washer. Wipe any excess oil off.
5. Remove the old oil filter by using an appropriate oil filter wrench. I found that the oil filter removal tool available from Halfords (metal band with a tightening knob at the bottom) works a treat as there's not much room behind the engine.
6. Inspect the threads and the rubber seals on the new filter if they're ok/same as the old one. Wipe excess oil off the seat on the engine block. Put a light coat of oil on the rubber seal and the threads of the new filter.
7. Replace the new oil filter and tighten it by hand. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN) Wipe any excess oil.
8. Refill with the new engine oil. I found that using exactly 5L of oil brings the oil level nicely up to the MAX (top hole) on the dipstick.
9. This step is optional but I do it anyway. Disconnect the ditributor connectors. Crank the engine a good 3-6 seconds for 2-3 times for the new oil to lubricate the engine. Reconnect the connectors.
10. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.
11. Go drive for a few minutes. Park up and check again for leaks.
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indigolemon
- The Chaos Engine
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You're not meant to, but usually you will get away with it. Just turn the washer round and tighten up when done. If you're stuck, Halfords sell sump plug washers for ~£1, or I got some for 40p each at my local stealer.nitin_s1 wrote:One more thing! I don't have a spare sum plug washerCan I re-use the old one!
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage
It's best to replace it, they're very cheap and you could get one from any place that sells nuts and bolts! Theres nothing special about it (it's just a soft copper/aluminium washer).
If you're having trouble removing the filter, jab a long screwdriver through it (in one side, out the other, not towards the block!) and unscrew it that way. That filter wrench looks good, you can get all sorts. Plastic ones that act like a giant spanner for the filter, the material/chain ones that grip it, etc. Just ensure you have something to tighten/loosen it! I'd always recommend tightening it with a special tool and not hand tightening it, sometimes oily hands can't tighten too well. Don't overtighten, just make sure its not going to leak.
Lastly, run the engine till its warm (go for a drive) before draining the oil, its much faster when the oils warm because it flows quicker
If you're having trouble removing the filter, jab a long screwdriver through it (in one side, out the other, not towards the block!) and unscrew it that way. That filter wrench looks good, you can get all sorts. Plastic ones that act like a giant spanner for the filter, the material/chain ones that grip it, etc. Just ensure you have something to tighten/loosen it! I'd always recommend tightening it with a special tool and not hand tightening it, sometimes oily hands can't tighten too well. Don't overtighten, just make sure its not going to leak.
Lastly, run the engine till its warm (go for a drive) before draining the oil, its much faster when the oils warm because it flows quicker
Shiny wrote:I sniff dirty pants.
