Hi guys just realised after removing my cc I should have blocked/plugged the vac line so today managed to do this BUT when warm the idle bounces from 200 rpm to 500 rpm. Does any one know what this could be
Oh and when it's cold it idles at 1500 rpm but that was the same before I plugged the cc vac any help would be appreciated thanks dan
Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
>>> Click Here For Profile <<<
>>> Click Here For Profile <<<
Cc vac
- ddoubledanny
- LotM Winner
- Posts: 1016
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2012 8:24 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- PSN GamerTag: Ddoubledanny
- Location: Kettering
- ddoubledanny
- LotM Winner
- Posts: 1016
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2012 8:24 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- PSN GamerTag: Ddoubledanny
- Location: Kettering
Yes I don't think you have blocked the vac line right. Do you have the original vac line? If so you can buy a Y tee piece from Halfords and use the original Vac line with this.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255228
Cant remember if it is 6 or 8mm vac line but they need to be a good tight fit otherwise air will get in. Try prying of a vac line on your car and you will see what I mean.
BMCC
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255228
Cant remember if it is 6 or 8mm vac line but they need to be a good tight fit otherwise air will get in. Try prying of a vac line on your car and you will see what I mean.
BMCC
- nucleustylzlude
- Moderator
- Posts: 4010
- Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:46 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Bristol, UK!
- Been thanked: 3 times
- Contact:
?
How will that help him? He's removed the CC, so he doesn't need more vac lines.
I don't understand why blocking off any vacuum ports would affect the idle like that??? I've done this is the past for various things - the resonator bypass vacuum box, EGR, CC, etc. Used the same short silicone piece with a screw in it. The screw was a thick piece that seemed to fill the tubing diameter so there was no leaks - they were spare screws from Ikea furniture. Ah, here we go:
Worked fine for me. Maybe the screw isn't tight enough?
Odd one. I also ended up looping a vacuum hose from one port to the other when I removed more parts from the car. Still ok.
How will that help him? He's removed the CC, so he doesn't need more vac lines.
I don't understand why blocking off any vacuum ports would affect the idle like that??? I've done this is the past for various things - the resonator bypass vacuum box, EGR, CC, etc. Used the same short silicone piece with a screw in it. The screw was a thick piece that seemed to fill the tubing diameter so there was no leaks - they were spare screws from Ikea furniture. Ah, here we go:
Worked fine for me. Maybe the screw isn't tight enough?
Odd one. I also ended up looping a vacuum hose from one port to the other when I removed more parts from the car. Still ok.
not saying remove more vac lines just that what has been done might not be air tight. Anytime I have removed a vac line they have been a very very tight fit. Hence have a look at another of your vac lines and compare with the one you have created. If you still have the Vac line for CC use this with the Y tee piece that way you will have an air tight seal as you are closing off the port. I.E cut the old cc vac line in half. One half on the top of the Y the other on the inlet manifold and the bottom of the Y. This closes the loop and makes it air tight.
I can put up a picture if needed?
I can put up a picture if needed?