Lude Generation

EddieMunster wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:14 pm

When you say shim, I presume you mean the ABS sensor and not the ring?

Yes, I deffo mean the sensor

IME you can't test an ABS sensor with a multimeter, beyond belling it out statically. It's very small/short pulses that a volt meter just can't react quickly enough to. The only way to view the signal generated is with a scope meter/oscilloscope.

The only way you're going to confirm if there is any damage to the reluctor ring or sensor, is to get the wheel off and inspect them properly - any damage caused by them contacting should be obvious.

Very odd to find a sensor and ring making contact though, are you sure it's not the brake disc backing plate that made contact with the reluctor ring? I have had that before, due to corrosion between the backing plate and the hub. Think I wrote about it and posted pics on my UKDM profile thread...

wurlycorner wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:00 pm

Very odd to find a sensor and ring making contact though, are you sure it's not the brake disc backing plate that made contact with the reluctor ring?

Quite possibly, I was running out of time today so I didn't have time to strip it fully, I was only able to view it from the gap in the backing plate so it could well be the plate itself. I have next Tuesday pencilled in to have a proper look, I'll report back then.

Regards

wurlycorner wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:00 pm

IME you can't test an ABS sensor with a multimeter, beyond belling it out statically. It's very small/short pulses that a volt meter just can't react quickly enough to. The only way to view the signal generated is with a scope meter/oscilloscope.

Depends on the meter, a nice fast one will show you the resistance change as the ring dips pass the sensor. I suppose mileage may vary on this.

wurlycorner wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:09 pm

EddieMunster wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:13 pm

I presume you can use the 2ws ABS sensors on the 4ws versions, they look identical?

Yep

Sadly, they're not; the driver's side rear ABS sensor has two bolts to fix it to the hub knuckle, instead of 1 as per the passenger rear, and it has 4 wires instead of 2 on the passenger rear.

It looks as though this setup changed for the 5g as every breaker of a 5g VTi 4ws is showing me a 1 bolt/2 wire for the driver's rear.

You're comparing 4g and 5g there, not 2ws 4g and 4ws 4g?

wurlycorner wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 02, 2019 3:53 pm

You're comparing 4g and 5g there, not 2ws 4g and 4ws 4g?

I'm so confused with this malarkey that I don't know whether I'm coming or going.

What I have ascertained is that the 4ws ABS 4g sensors are all the same fitment, left or right, front or rear, only the cable length and steel supports differ. I should, in theory, be able to buy any work ABS sensor and use that to at least check my rear driver's side wiring is working, or whether the fault lies with the 4WS unit itself; the ABS error is immediate, when you turn the ignition on, so even plugging a working sensor in that's not fitted to the hub should allow me to check it's all working.

I'm about to explode, I've restored Integrale Evo 2's before and had less problems than this Honda, 50% of Lancia parts were NLA within 3 years of the end of production!!!

EddieMunster wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 06, 2019 9:04 pm

What I have ascertained is that the 4ws ABS 4g sensors are all the same fitment, left or right, front or rear, only the cable length and steel supports differ.

Partially correct...

No difference in rear sensors between a 2WS 4g and a 4WS 4g.
Rear sensors are the same length/plug fitment left and right, but the metal support brackets are different.

No front sensors are fitted to 2WS 4g's.
Front sensors are the same length/plug fitment left/right, but the metal support brackets are different.

Front and rear sensors have the same plugs as each other and the sensor 'looks' the same.
However, the sensor resistance range is different front/rear; Front sensors should be 700-1100 Ohm, Rear sensors should be 1000-1600 Ohm.
So if you plug a front sensor into the rear (or vice versa) there's only a 9% chance that the resistance range will match and not throw a fault code.
You're best off only using a known good rear sensor to test the rear, or a known good front sensor to test the front.

wurlycorner wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:31 pm

Partially correct...

No difference in rear sensors between a 2WS 4g and a 4WS 4g.
Rear sensors are the same length/plug fitment left and right, but the metal support brackets are different.

So, you're saying a rear sensor from a 2ws 4g will work on the rear of a 4ws 4g? The rear sensors on my 4ws 4g have 4 wires going into the connector, which presumably is 2 wires for each of the nodes?

Regards

EddieMunster wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:43 pm

The rear sensors on my 4ws 4g have 4 wires going into the connector, which presumably is 2 wires for each of the nodes?

?

That doesn't make sense?

The sensors are two wire only. That's based on my personal experience and the OEM service manual;