Steering rack boot HELP!!

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Wed May 08, 2013 9:52 pm

great, thanks.

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Wed May 08, 2013 10:49 pm

wurlycorner wrote:For the tie rod outer end there's no splitter needed, you can just whack it up from underneath easy enough.

leave the nut on a couple of threads in case you miss with the hammer

Post by **Merlin** » Thu May 09, 2013 12:55 pm

^^ As above take the castle nut off, flip it round and put it back on. That way you protect both the bottom of the ball joint and the castle part of the nut when hitting it with the hammer

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 09, 2013 3:31 pm

Well it was a bugger of a job but thatnks to you guys i got it done!

Then the muffin 4ws light came on while i was driving to the test center....

Luckly the car still passed so i have a nice fresh mot, and an advisory list as long as my arm! lol.

thanks again guys!

Dbo · Post by **Dbo** » Thu May 09, 2013 3:39 pm

well done man

now you got a whole year to go through your list

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 09, 2013 3:44 pm

haha, yeah, im gonna need it i think!

Dbo · Post by **Dbo** » Thu May 09, 2013 3:45 pm

before re-soldering your ecu again

have you tried the earth

mine used to do this till i took the black wire off and where it was connected to the seat stay it was still painted under the bolt

so sanded off all the paint and put a nut and bolt right threw and did up really tight

simple thing but i worked on mine

got fed up with sitting places restarting the car 10 times till the bloody light would go out

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 09, 2013 3:51 pm

Thats a good idea actually, i will check it out. i had it working intermittantly like you say starting and stopping the engine till it worked, but since the resolder when the light comes on, it doesnt click any more when the engine starts, whereas it did even if it didnt work when it was intermittant.

Gonna go check the error codes now and will continue this in the other thread! lol.