Lude Generation

As above. My 5th gen nearside rear is binding and I would like a 'bob the builder' step by step layout as to how to service and refit the caliper. Anyone got one?

I'm not too sure about 5th gens but I'd imagine it would be the same or similar to the 4th gen, there is a write up in my profile post, lacking pics but feel free to pm me for a bit clearer explanation, Confused has yet to sort out more detailed pics from when we did Gayno's calipers, it's fairly simple and with a little bit of info quite easy too depending on how far you want to go.

For binding I would say probably be the piston(pot) and slide pins so a refurb kit from brakes int would do it along with basic hand tools and brake fluid, some copper grease is good too. While you're there I would look at the other rear and maybe do both, if the fronts are ok you can leave them for now.

Chris

Some lovely advice here from when I had a similar problem:

Duo wrote:As for the brakes a sticky caliper can be a real pain, try to leave the carrier on the car if you don't have a bench as the slide pins can take some effort to remove also being careful not to break the rubber seals unless you have new ones. I know some people will slate me for this but on my 4th gen I used copper grease on the slide pins, it's designed to stop metal on metal ceasing and it's rated to 1150 degrees C which is more than enough for brakes. The acid test was after nearly two years sat SORN'd and garaged I finally got monies to swap the clutch, everything still works and after a bit of back and forth on the parents drive all the calipers are still free moving shown by the even removal of rust from the disks Some guys are sure you shouldn't use copper grease and the normal brake lube will work but I'm adding my 2p just in case you have copper grease about and not the "proper" lube.

Merlin wrote:Just to expand a little on Duo's info. I have just done all of my brakes, replaced discs/pads and cleaned all the sliders. I had seized rear brake, it was my slider pins not the caliper piston. If you have a work bench that will give enought grip to get even the toughest slider pin out (I had to heat my carrier with a blow torch). If you do need to get the slider pins out, pull the rubber boots down from the end where the caliper bolts on. That way you wont damage the rubber boot. If you are going to tackle the brakes I reccomend buying a Big Red caliper refurb kit first (£20 from Big Red on the phone). I didnt, then had to wait for bits to be delivered before I could continue with doing the brakes.

Thanks for the responses boys. To be honest I am a total berk when it comes to mechanics - no matter how easy I make a c0ck up of it. I do have the tools though - a nice shiny Halfords socket set and even a rewind tool for the piston Feck knows how I use them though I really could do with a dumbass step by step - Otherwise I am considering a new (refurbed) caliper on Ebay that has all been done for me and saves the hassle?

Am I right in sayin the slider pins are the bolts either side of the caliper? They seemed to loosen quite easy although I have not removed them yet. If it is the caliper piston that is a problem how do you service that?

The reply to this will take a little while as I have to get back to work in a few, where are you based? If you're too far away I'll pm you a step by step after work

The link below is one of a series of videos on how to service brakes:

http://www.ehow.co.uk/video_2327083_ins ... -pads.html

This ones ok but there are others on ehow

Brakesinternational do refurbed calipers. Around £70 per caliper plus £60 surcharge and you get it back when you send back your old caliper.

Thanks again guys,

Duo - based in Glasgow so just a wee bit away from you mate . Ratty - was looking at these guys - heard of them before?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370533050868? ... 1423.l2648

£73 delivered but they return £15 back when you return the old caliper.

Just been and done this again - its amazing what a difference it makes when your calipers work properly

Mine had seized slider pins on both the front and rear calipers on the right hand side. So my braking was proper bad. Most common problem to be honest is the seized slider pins.

I would suggest you follow the honda guidelines when it comes to grease. Use silicon brake caliper grease to lube the slide pins (tricky to get hold off actually in decent quantity). You can use copper grease on the back of the pads and edges to stop break squeel though only. I've always use copper grease before on the slider pins, and I keep having to do them again. A check in the workshop manual states to use silicon grease on the slider pins. So that is what I have done this time.

Also, I had totally solid seized rear slider pins, and I managed to free off all of them by using PLUS-GAS. This is 100 times better than wd40. You need to slide back the rubber seal from the end of the pin and insert the straw nozzle from the can into the rubber boot, then fire a load in there. Patiently use an adj wrench to grab the slider pin and wiggle. You only need to get any movement at all, and keep using the plus-gas. It will free up to the point you can move the pin 90 degrees. Keep repeating this and then start to apply pressure on the slider pin head to push it out with a large screwdriver. You need to push on the head whilst rotating to get the pin to work its way out.

Totally clean off all rust from the pin, and lube up with silicone grease. Insert the pin and check for free movement before re-assembly. You might find pulling out the pin, removes rusty sludge and residue from inside the caliper. Do this until its clean - reapply silicone grease and refit.

Check your pads fit snug and if too tight, file down the metal tag edges for a nice fit. You dont want to have to hammer out the pads each time. Lube up the piston to pad contact area with copper grease.

Mintex Cera-Tec grease, highly recommended for the pins My brakes haven't seized since using that stuff!