Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.

>>> Click Here For Profile <<<

Image

Cotter (split) pins on balljoints - are they necessary ?

Chassis/Brakes/Steering/Wheels discussion
User avatar
uberNoobZA
Posts: 430
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 2:49 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: Oxford / Sanctuary / Azeroth
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 14 times

Cotter (split) pins on balljoints - are they necessary ?

Post by uberNoobZA » Fri May 04, 2018 1:23 pm

I've been replacing boots on all the ball joints on my Prelude and some of the castle nuts had to be cut / forced off, leaving the remnants of the old cotter pins in place inside the ball joint bolt. Do I REALLY need to drill them out to make space for the new cotter pins, or are the pins not that critical ?

Scott560
Posts: 1328
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 4:44 pm
My Generation: 5G
Location: Didcot
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 214 times

Post by Scott560 » Fri May 04, 2018 1:44 pm

Yes, and you'll need them if you want to pass an MOT i think.

I've always found i can remove them with needle nose pliers (not by pulling directly, but by twisting and wrapping them around the nose will pull them free). If there isn't enough protruding, i've always found i can tease them out with a small flat bladed screwdriver first.

i bought a selection box from ebay for under a tenner, will last for ever.
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
'21 'e' Advance

User avatar
uberNoobZA
Posts: 430
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 2:49 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: Oxford / Sanctuary / Azeroth
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 14 times

Post by uberNoobZA » Fri May 04, 2018 1:54 pm

I know how to remove them, but sometimes that's not possible, and you are left with the remainder of the cotter pin stuck in the bolt.

User avatar
NafemanNathan
LotM Winner
Posts: 20144
Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 9:37 pm
My Generation: 0G
Location: Yeovil, Somerset
Has thanked: 8 times
Been thanked: 122 times

Post by NafemanNathan » Fri May 04, 2018 2:13 pm

If not for the MOT, I'd replace them for piece of mind anyway!

Although not in the easiest position, the material the split pin is made of is a lot softer than the ball joint material, so it should be easy enough to drill out. Do you possibly know someone with one of these?...

Image

Or maybe a Dremel with a 90 degree attachment...

Image

User avatar
uberNoobZA
Posts: 430
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 2:49 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: Oxford / Sanctuary / Azeroth
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 14 times

Post by uberNoobZA » Fri May 04, 2018 3:41 pm

Thanks guys. I do have a dremel, but not hte 90 degree attachment. That said, it's 'easy' to take the hub off, so I'll just pop it off and use a proper drill to drill out the stuck cotter pins.

Just read too many horror stories of the nut backing off on cars that didn't have the cotter pins in place.

If anything, taking my suspension apart AGAIN is good practice for a noob like me :lol:

User avatar
laner84
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2016 10:13 am
My Generation: 4G
XBOX GamerTag: LENNY B 84
Location: Yeovil/Chard
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 13 times

Post by laner84 » Fri May 04, 2018 6:51 pm

Yes is the simple question buddy! Because they only run castle nuts not nylock they will creep loose without the pins :)

User avatar
indigolemon
The Chaos Engine
Posts: 6676
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:45 pm
My Generation: 4G
PSN GamerTag: M149YSL
Location: Kelty, Fife
Has thanked: 20 times
Been thanked: 70 times
Contact:

Post by indigolemon » Fri May 04, 2018 8:42 pm

I think you can leave them off if you use nylock nuts instead.
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage

User avatar
uberNoobZA
Posts: 430
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 2:49 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: Oxford / Sanctuary / Azeroth
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 14 times

Post by uberNoobZA » Fri May 04, 2018 9:05 pm

indigolemon wrote:I think you can leave them off if you use nylock nuts instead.
Gonna go with OEM castle nuts and cotter pins, now that I have the torque specs for the nuts :D

User avatar
Vtecmec
LotM Winner
Posts: 5378
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:43 pm
My Generation: 4G
XBOX GamerTag: vtecmec
Location: East Midlands
Has thanked: 121 times
Been thanked: 347 times

Post by Vtecmec » Fri May 04, 2018 9:39 pm

Just drift the remnants of the pin out of the joint, you won't have to drill. A thin screwdriver and a hammer should do the job nicely.

User avatar
laner84
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2016 10:13 am
My Generation: 4G
XBOX GamerTag: LENNY B 84
Location: Yeovil/Chard
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 13 times

Post by laner84 » Fri May 04, 2018 10:31 pm

Vtecmec wrote:Just drift the remnants of the pin out of the joint, you won't have to drill. A thin screwdriver and a hammer should do the job nicely.
Or a small wood pin nail! :)

Post Reply

Return to “Chassis / Brakes / Steering / Wheels”