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How do you bypass brake fluid level sensor?

Chassis/Brakes/Steering/Wheels discussion
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Tusker
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How do you bypass brake fluid level sensor?

Post by Tusker » Sat Apr 20, 2019 1:56 pm

My brake fluid level sensor is faulty. I’ve replaced with a used one and it was fine for a while but has just gone again. It’s not just that the fault light is lit but it also disables the 4WS.

The Honda dealer says they’re discontinued so rather than waste money on another 2nd hand part I’d like to bypass it. It’s easy enough to check the fluid visually anyway. I’m guessing there must be some resistance as simply joining the wires together doesn’t resolve the fault.

Anybody done this before?

Scott560
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How do you bypass brake fluid level sensor?

Post by Scott560 » Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:18 pm

you could easily check with a multimeter the resistance whether its an always open, or always closed switch.

then you'd simply disconnect it, or disconnect and bridge according to the above... Something sounds wrong 'disabling' the sensor in this way give its safety implications however. Id lake to say its rare you'd lose all your fluid, but, no cars our age its a possibility!

Mine would play up in cold weather under braking when the engine bay was cold, fine once warmed up. I took the cap off, cleaned it up, sprayed some electrical contact cleaner in there and jiggled it about a bit - all good since... Id give that a go first rather than try to disable it (imagine one day your brake line rusts out , you'd rather know about it). Now if only there was on for the PAS fluid when the cooler line gives out! (pending job on the new lude now i think about it, bypassed on the old one).
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
'97 UKDM 2.2VTi (Gone)

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Tusker
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How do you bypass brake fluid level sensor?

Post by Tusker » Sun Apr 21, 2019 11:30 pm

Good advice 😀
I’ve taken an old one apart as far as I can and the wires are sealed into the unit so no connectors accessible within the cap. The wires go into the reed sensor which is switched on and off by the magnet in the float. Most likely suspect for failure appears to be the wires themselves. Anyhow, I drove my last prelude over 80k without any problems with this part so I’ll persevere and get it fixed in the hope that once it’s fixed it’ll stay that way 🤞

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