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Binding Brakes

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 3:05 pm
by jjmartin349571
Hi guys,

My Prelude is in for MOT atm, and is going to fail on the rear O/S brake binding :( is there an easy troubleshooting method to get the caliper working again? I'm trying to keep the cost down and I don't fancy paying main dealer rates :( If it helps, it has only started binding since it stood for a month on my drive.

Cheers,
Josh

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 3:15 pm
by Merlin
Take it to bits and see if its the sliders or piston stuck, or the pad stuck in the carrier. You should be good to clean it and put it back together. Hopefully none of the rubber boots or seals are split. Refurb kits are ~£25 which do either both fronts or both rears.

I get sticky calipers regularly, my brakes get hot :oops: and like you say after the car has sat for a while they seize up :(

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:28 pm
by Angus
As above. Most often it's either the sliding pins that are sticking (due to the grease having dried up or the boot having split letting water in) or the pads not moving sideways in the carrier due to corrosion or gunked up dried grease.

A stuck sliding pin can be a bitch to remove, but a mole grip, hammer and such tools can usually loosen it enough to extract eventually. Usually destroys the boot in the process, though - and is actually a lot quicker if you write the boot off to start with. These are the sort of things I tend to vulture of scrap cars. :)

As for stuck pads, you have to lever them out gradually, trying not to break the pad material (if they're still of serviceable depth, that is). A chisel is good for this - screwdrivers can give too much pressure on a little area and increase the chance of shattering the pad. Remove the holders and give them a good old clean, get them as smooth and shiny as you can. Then apply a dob of copper grease to the contacting edges of the pads (which you've also cleaned up) before reinstalling.

If the pad on one side of the disc is much more worn than on the other, it indicates a sticky piston. That is, the piston is constantly forcing the pad against the disc on that side. Though not recommended, if the piston boot is OK then you can work the piston in and out with the brake pedal and a G-clamp whilst squirting WD40 or similar under the boot. Doesn't beat removing the piston and cleaning everything up properly, but it's worked for me in the past.

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:42 pm
by secla
I always go for refurb units to be honest. brakes international do them for about £60 and then your shouldnt have to worry about it for a few more years :) Check the slider pins first though as thats an easy fix. free up grease and replace

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 8:34 pm
by wurlycorner
:roll:
Just catching up with posts since Tues...
Guess what I was doing today on the JDM after MOT fail *sigh*