Lude Generation

Right then...
My beloved 'lude has been up on stands now for nearly a year while I have been trying to sort out the suspension.
Now that has been sorted, I've booked her in for an MOT on Friday before remembering I replaced the master brake cylinder and put on some braided lines so the brakes need bleeding...
Problem is, I don't have the first idea how to do it - worse I understand it's not a simple process if you have ABS..
I've had a look on the wiki, but the bleeding part hasn't been completed as yet..
Assuming you would be telling Jeremy Clarkson with a bag of hammers how to do it, can anybody help?
Cheers
Doug

ABS or not, the 'standard' method usually works as long as you don't let new air back into the system.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho ... ce/4213448
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/h ... rakes.html

A proprietary brake tube with a non-return valve works well enough, too, if you're doing it on your own.
Something like this:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255216

Have a go, Doug. I did my motorbike clutch last week (using a non-return valve thingy like the one above) which is pretty close to the same thing and I'm like Clarkson/Hammers when he's P*ssed.

Only thing I found is to make sure you've got a fair bit of fluid to top up as required, and be careful not to over tighten the nipples (The ones on the car! ) when done.

Also (I haven't checked the links above) but DOT 5.1 and DOT 4 fluid can be mixed if needed, however DOT 5 should not be mixed with anything else and is best avoided altogether unless you have a really particular reason for wanting it as (if memory serves me correctly) it's a silicon based (not glycol based) product that was developed for the US military and such a PITA to use even they stopped using it. (If you don't know what's in there just use 5.1)

^^^
Someone please confirm this!

Not sure if that sounds like I'm complicating things, but really I'd give this one a go, it's pretty easy.

Edit: I'd listen to Merlin on this stuff over me though \/\/\/\/

Here is an American link
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1476663

Dot 3. I am almost sure 4 will mix with it but I wll not pay for a new front for your car if I am wrong!

Dont muck about, get a good DOT 4 brake fluid and the job is done. Unfortunatly bleeding brakes is a two man job. Bleeding the system is no different with ABS, well I dont do anything different

It is as simple as.

1st man open caliper bleed valve, 2nd man presses the brake and holds it on, 1st man closes valve, 2nd man lifts off the brake, keep doing this untill clear fluid comes out.

Move to the next caliper.

Rise and repeat.

The service manual shows the correct sequence to bleed the brakes, ie what order to bleed the calipers

You should only need one bottle of brake fluid, you can also do your clutch fluid with any excess left over.

Good luck; they can be an absolute c unt to bleed! Mine were...

I think it's something to do with the electric pressure-valve meaning you cannot get a decent squirt out of the rears, even with an Eeezi-bleed kit.

Fronts seem not too bad.

You people are absolute legends!
Thanks ever so much for all your help!
@Sailor - grabbed myself one of those sel fbleed kits from halfords so I'll be on it tomorrow!
Thanks again chaps!
Doug

If your calipers bleed nipples haven't been loosened for a long time I would recommend undoing them with a brake spanner or a good fitting six sided socket before attempting to put a standard spanner near it.

They can be a royal pain in the bum and the last thing you want is to round them off or snap them.

Thanks for the tip on the nipples (snigger!)
Looks like the MOT is off now anyway - just sheared the thread off the sodding ball joint on the rear upper arm!

Or if you've got a Central Tyres or the like very near by (somewhere you can crawl too with handbrake and no brakes) just pop it in there for a full fluid change.

Don't know what the other fast fit monkeys charge, but Central Tyres only charge £29 for a full fluid change. That's well worth it save that messy effort and end up with fully changed fluid (the fluid alone to do a full system change would cost about £20 retail).

Did that on the Volvo, my UKDM and that's what I'll be doing when I get the brakes changed over on the JDM.