abs to non-abs conversion..... braided lines

[lucas]

Hey guys, now that my engine bay is all clean I can start putting everything back in.
Since I got rid of the abs unit I was wondering if anyone would possibly know the lengths of the two brake lines going from the master cylinder to the prop valve... I havent got myslef a pv yet hence why im askin first

I need to order the lines just now as its a group buy lol

[lucas]

anyone?

hoping to have it ordered tonight and cant find an answer haha

[nucleustylzlude]

Well the location of the OEM non ABS prop valve is the same location as the ABS unit. If your not replacing the lines to the rear brakes then you have to keep it in the same location of the prop valve for the flared lines. In terms of routing the lines, you have a shaved bay, you can do it however you want!

But if you were to follow the lines of the OEM setup off the top of my head I'd say it's around 1m horizontal for each line from prop valve to brake m/c side, then up about 50-60cm from the low OEM fixings level up to the brake m/c.

Braided lines are normally by the metre, so either get 4m so you're not short and to be safe. Or, I'd say you could route them better than the OEM setup a little higher up and get away with 3m. But don't hold me to that.

What are you doing about the line that goes from the prop valve to the drivers side front caliper? Just you don't mention it? The passenger side OEM can usually be retained unless you want to make up a couple of hardlines?

Hope that helps.

[lucas]

thanks for the reply rob

ive ordered a set of braided lines from HEL and as an extra im getting them to make up the m/s to p/v
im running everything in the OEM route

i threw the abs unit away and did the same with all the other lines ahaa
ive heard ppl talking about hardlines and softlines, am i safe enough to run everything braided ?

[nucleustylzlude]

Ah, so you give them the length and fitting sizes and the pre-make them up for you, fair enough. You've given them the flare nut sizes too then? Be mindful that while pretty much every thread is M10 x 1.0mm, one of the fittings on the m/c is M12 x 1.0mm.

To run the OEM route, you won't be able to use the OEM plastic brackets with braided lines. Need to order some correctly sized rubber lined P clips. Which is exactly why you could route it a little higher personally.

To be fair, I had to cut one or two of my lines at the ABS unit as they were stuck fast and started to round, so can appreciate why you'd bin a load. So did you remove both front lines all the way up to the flexi lines in the wheel wells? As you'll need these too right?

As for hard or soft lines, there is just the usual hardlines everywhere and then soft refers to the OEM rubber flexi lines at the wheels (unless you've upgraded these to braided lines). Everything braided is even better, solid and can take very high pressures without bulging or failing.

[lucas]

yep
just need to give them the size i need
they are doing the 4 lines from the prop valve to the calipers in the normal size, so getting rid of the flexipipe but they dont know how long the m/s to p/v is


yea i know about the M12 x 1.0 on the master
haha i was soo confused when i changed one on my mates lude lol


I might even just tell them to make it longer and run it behind the firewall

[Donald]

Not sure if this is broken logic, but wont longer lines mean more fluid and a longer pedal feel or however you would call it?

[Donald]

I'm not talking about effort I don't think so anyway?

I'm thinking in terms of like if you had a 50ft hosepipe and a 10ft hosepipe, turn them on at the same time and water comes out of the shorter one first.

[4thgenphil]

Lines wont make a difference, more fluid in the system maybe but your stull pushing the same size piston from the same master cylinder so same effort required.

Not sure if this is broken logic, but wont longer lines mean more fluid and a longer pedal feel or however you would call it?

not longer but may make it slightly spongier due to even braided flexi hoses still slightly bulging under pressure, it'll be a fairly small amount and unless you really drive the car hard will be difficult to notice

@Lucas, if you do route them through the car, please make sure you still attach them properly as if they chaff it could be the end, none of us want to see another smashed up lude (dont give a crap about you though ) I know its basics but i'd feel bad not speaking up.

[Donald]

Okay cheers spongier is probably the word I should have used