Lude Generation

So I have finally got my arse in gear and decided to tackle the rust on the underside of the car. I've heard nothing but good reviews on the entire Bilt Hamber range, so I have just had some of the Deox-Gel delivered. If I can manage to take the weekend off work, I will tackle it then.

I have looked into the best ways of applying the gel and getting good results, but just wondering if anybody has done it themselves and has any additional tips or tricks I should know about?

Thanks.

It'll take you more than a weekend to do it properly.

The best way I've found is to hit the rust with a twist knot brush on the end of a drill to get rid of all the heavy stuff. Then apply the gel with a brush, giving it a bit of a work in as you do, then cover with cling film to stop it drying out.

Come back the next day and apply new gel over the area, but don't bother removing the old, just work it in with a wire brush, then recover with cling film and come back the next day. Repeat this until it's all gone.

One the rust is gone, jet wash the area clean and quickly towel dry, then hit it with a heat gun to fully dry out.

Once dry paint with a zinc primer, then an epoxy mastic then stone chip if necessary.

Try not to let the stuff dry out as its a bit of a mare to remove if you do, but working some gel into the dried stuff will soften it up nicely.

Some pics here......

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 90-30.html

When I researched to do mine, this range was well rated;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keyw ... zez27v1p_e

Also this;

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... +convertor

Vtecmec wrote:It'll take you more than a weekend to do it properly.

The best way I've found is to hit the rust with a twist knot brush on the end of a drill to get rid of all the heavy stuff. Then apply the gel with a brush, giving it a bit of a work in as you do, then cover with cling film to stop it drying out.

Come back the next day and apply new gel over the area, but don't bother removing the old, just work it in with a wire brush, then recover with cling film and come back the next day. Repeat this until it's all gone.

One the rust is gone, jet wash the area clean and quickly towel dry, then hit it with a heat gun to fully dry out.

Once dry paint with a zinc primer, then an epoxy mastic then stone chip if necessary.

Try not to let the stuff dry out as its a bit of a mare to remove if you do, but working some gel into the dried stuff will soften it up nicely.

Some pics here......

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 90-30.html

All id add to that is "Once upon a time" & "The End" or the alternative 4th gen ending "The Rust won"



But yes as above.

Use Hydrate80 for small surface rust. Deox C for small removable parts that can be soaked in a tub for a couple of days.

But you do need more than a weekend.

i see your 5th gen so ensure you do this over a large tarpaulin to ensure after your last coat you can just roll up the car and dispose of the waste in a sensible manner, heres a link that might be of some use for the disposal of said waste.http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Environment ... /index.htm

you may find the tyres could be of use to somebody with an older car and there is a for sale section on here that you could advertise them on as these will be the only bit that will not dissolve.
please adhere to the seller rules when advertising your tyres. good luck with your disposal.

.....

I've been doing some on my 5G and deox / mechanical rust removal is the only way to go before applying Hydrate 80/
With some of it, I just Hydrate 80'd over the top of surface rust, the problem is if any water gets to it again it just comes right off. I'd even painted over the top to stop the water getting in but that didn't help.

I'd really only Hydrate 80 in areas I totally have to, or that can be properly deoxed / mechanical removal can be applied first.
Please don't use it as a short cut because in my experience it just won't work. By all means however, once the metal is cleaned properly, apply it before paint then dynax over the top or whatever it is you are working on to ensure no water can get to it.

With Deox thick and even is the key as well as ensuring you keep it covered in cling film or similar to ensure it doesn't dry out as Vtecmec says. I did have some start to dry on mine, and it went like a firm gel and I had to scrub like crazy to get it off.
I'd also advise when washing it off not to use a wire brush but instead a plastic dish brush or similar. This ensures you don't go rubbing more metal or metal flakes into what you've just worked on. I've had much better success this way and IIRC is the way Bilt-Hamber recommend you do it.


All of my stuff (with the exception of the bit that didn't stay on properly) has been painted over then Dynax UB over that as it's in hidden areas. The Dynax UB provides a nice wax coating to ensure that water doesn't get directly at the surface again.
This is important in areas like wheel arches or under the body.
If there is any standard under seal ensure that you properly clean the area first as mine was flaking off badly and it will provide poor adhesion in this instance. BH recommend whitespirit to wipe it down or some other kind of alcohol to prep. I've found neat Surfex HD and a good wash with water after (and I'm talking a lot of water to remove it) then a towel dry where possible on a hot day or a heat gun, worked a treat.

Personally I don't rate Hydrate 80 at all, if its just minor surface rust you might as well hit it with the gel and give it some decent paint.

Thanks for the advice guys...

Vtecmec, I feel your Never-ending Project OCD is gonna prove to be an invaluable "How to Guide".

Good stuff, let us know how you get on.