Lude Generation

I have just removed the 4ws stuff and replaced it with a 2ws subframe.
I want to make it as easy as possible to revert back to 4ws, which means leaving all the cabling in place.

I was wondering if anyone has done the same, and what they did with the cabling under the car? as a temporary measure i have tied it all to the anti roll bar with string! lol. just hoping for some ideas as to what to do with it to keep it out the way and in good condition.

plastic bag and tie wraps

I didnt even plastic bag mine, i just tied it to the ARB

Awesome. will do that then!

If you remove the rear seat on the drivers side, all the 4WS cables run through a large grommet, you can pull all the cabling back into the cabin, bung the grommet and tuck the wiring away somewhere inside.

Oh, wow. I never knew that, will investigate tomorrow

Just looking over some of my old pics, the ABS wiring also seems to be part of that loom too, but only for about 6 inches outside of the floor, so it may need a bit of work to separate the two.

Another quick question on this. just removed the ecu and im wonder what fuses i need to take out to make the wiring safe? im talking about the 4 connectors you bolt on to the side of the ecu. i will take out the main 4ws fuse, but i know the radio fuse has something to do with 4ws and i would like to keep power to the radio! lol.

Am i able to remove power from them all without affecting anything else? or is it gonna be a case of taping the ends up?

The main 4WS 60A fuse under the bonnet (no. 38) feeds the white high current supply cable to the 4WS unit (screw terminal) which supplies the power circuit for the motor, so if you take the fuse out, that's safe and no need to tape it up. The other 3 screw terminal cables are outputs from the control unit and ground, so they'll be dead anyway.

There's another 4WS fuse in the main fuse box (No. 22, 10A) that feeds low current supply to the 4WS ECU electronics, so you can remove that too if you like. Then there are several other fuses that also feed into the 4WS unit, but that you don't want to remove, because they also supply other components (ECU, radio etc.)
If you just tape up the ends of the 2 plastic multi-connectors in the boot properly with insulation tape and then secure the loom up to the body so it can't flap around and chafe, that's probably the best you can do.

Nice one, cheers wurly! should have it all sorted this week, then i can get rid of the bloody 4ws light!!