Lude Generation

Hey again guys.

Another quicky (yeah right!), I think my plans are fine but I just wanted to see what everyone else has done for wiring their gauges up.

I'm simply using one of the 'add a fuse' parts like this as I can't be arsed to remove the fuse box to wire in properly and I don't want to tap into the cig lighter, especially as its unnecessary wiring from the A-pillar/tweeter area of the gauges:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Add-A-Circu ... 0709632237

I have three power supplies as follows:

1) A dedicated one for the power supply to my AEM UEGO wideband which I'll run off of an 'add a fuse'. The gauge's instructions state it needs a 10 amp fuse and therefore I will use approximately 14-16 gauge cable (or 1.5-2.0mm2 to us Metric people). I have 2.00mm2 which handles up to 17.5amps. I've read around and AEM UEGO's are recommended to have its own power supply and not to daisy chain with other gauges.

2) Another power supply for three gauges = 1no Autometer Oil Pressure, 1no Autometer Oil Temp & 1no DynoTune Boost gauge which will run off of another 'add a fuse'. The Autometer gauges instructions recommend about 4-5amp fused connection. So I was hoping to just daisy chain these three gauges power supply from a 5amp fuse and use 1.0mm2 (16 guage) cable which is good for 8.75amps. I assume the daisy chaining will be fine for 3 gauges and the supply fuses and cable thicknesses I'm proposing. I see them wired this way all the time.

3) Another supply will simply tap into the headlight switch for the two Autometer gauges backlight.

The earth cabling for all of this is easy enough.

How does that sound guys? Any changes suggested?

Cheers,

Rob

It is a little difficult to understand what your power sources are and how they are fused. I assume your gauges are backlit and you want the lights to come on whit your headlights?

For my gauges (I have 3 - oil temp, oil pressure, water temp) and I use the same power and earth for all three.


For main power I take a feed off the chunky white cable that goes from the ignition to the fusebox. I took a feed off before it goes into the fusebox. In between the take off and the gauges I have a 10a fuse.

For gauge lights I took a feed from the wire that supplies power to back lights for the dash dials. Again fused in between.

For the earth I spliced all 3 into the loom for the blower/heater.

I soldered all of my wiring apart from spade connectors for attaching to the fuses.

Merlin wrote:It is a little difficult to understand what your power sources are and how they are fused. I assume your gauges are backlit and you want the lights to come on whit your headlights?

For my gauges (I have 3 - oil temp, oil pressure, water temp) and I use the same power and earth for all three.


For main power I take a feed off the chunky white cable that goes from the ignition to the fusebox. I took a feed off before it goes into the fusebox. In between the take off and the gauges I have a 10a fuse.

For gauge lights I took a feed from the wire that supplies power to back lights for the dash dials. Again fused in between.

For the earth I spliced all 3 into the loom for the blower/heater.

I soldered all of my wiring apart from spade connectors for attaching to the fuses.

yet another guide I shall be saving for plumbing in my two backlit oil pressure and oil temp dials, thank you merlin

If you've ripped out A/C and cruise and the like, should you not now have some spare oem feeds out of the fuse box available? i.e. Just plug into where you've disconnected the looms that ran to those items?

Forgot to reply here.

My gauges are wired into the clock lead. I hacking into the positive and that goes to a 3 way dizzy block which then goes to each gauge. Its not overloaded yet.
Its all tucked neatly. Behind the clock. 5th Gen though. 4th Gens have way more room.

wurly: I've ripped out alot, but not all the associated wiring is yet to be removed. I'll do a full strip out and re-wire one day but have plenty to do to get it on the road. Anyway, the fusebox has spare fuse ports to use anyway - which is what I'm doing!

Merlin: Thanks for the detail bud. I think you missed my link to the 'add a fuse' item:



Fits like this:



So my power source is essentially the same location as yours, just off the fuse board under the dash. You just add an appropriate fuse and wiring to suit (assuming its within the ignition ampage obviously!). Maybe I'll up my 3 gauges feed to 10amps and up the cable size to suit.

Yes, the two Autometer gauges are backlit, the other two are full digital displays. I meant I would be tapping of the supply to the dash lights - 'tap into the headlight switch'?

I was simply gonna earth all mine together to a fresh point near the A-pillar, unless there's a handy factory location around that area, I'll check the manuals now.

I was just going to crimp connect as I've bought a nice professional crimper set, only a couple to do each gauge.

Cheers for the help bud.

RattyMcClelland wrote:Forgot to reply here.

My gauges are wired into the clock lead. I hacking into the positive and that goes to a 3 way dizzy block which then goes to each gauge. Its not overloaded yet.
Its all tucked neatly. Behind the clock. 5th Gen though. 4th Gens have way more room.

Ah, just missed this. By the way, your gauge install came out really clean bud.
Well the clock ain't no-where near my A-pillar/tweeter cover on 4th gens. Seems like most people tap off of existing powered items though, isn't it cleaner to come off the fused ignition distribution board?